I think the St. Croix No-Wake kicks in when the level at Stillwater is 684 or higher. I saw the crest at Stillwater was forcasted for 681.7 so you should be good to go.

Yesterday, in Woodbury, I saw a hen mallard swimming with three ducklings on a little storm water pond by Powers Lake. They were just little fuzz balls. I was really surprised to see ducklings so early. I thought the hens were probably just starting in incubate eggs about now, but she must have started about a month ago.

Do you LockTite when reinstalling the caliper pins?

buckybadger wrote:

I haven’t followed closely enough to have all the facts…but questions I have that if answered would help decide my hypothetical jury vote:

1. Did the suspect approach the group (or their area), leave after verbal confronation, and THEN come back with the knife?

2. At what point was the lady stabbed? What was her role in it?

3. Are there any character references/criminal actions related to this guy previously? I get that this was a traumatic experience to everyone involved, but man the footage of him in the squad car fairly relaxed presenting himself as a confused, uninvolved bystander is awfully suspicious.

4. Who made the first verbal contact with the other party? The supsect to the victims or vice-versa?

5. Who made the first deliberate physical contact with the other party? The suspect to the victims or vice-versa?

6. How much time elapsed from the first person being stabbed and the last?

Another question I would have is related to the number of people that were stabbed and how many people actually had physical contact with Miu. It appears that Miu was slapped and pushed down once or twice. So, assume for agreement’s sake, that there were three people that physically contacted him. But five people were stabbed. Are you allowed to stab people in self-defense that did not physically assault you but were just in the vicinity? Is it known if the deceased had any physical contact with Miu? If not, it seems like the jury should find Miu guilty of at least two counts of attempted murder or some type of assault charge, or murder if the deceased had no physical contact with Miu. Or maybe all five people that were stabbed did have physical contact with Miu before being stabbed.

Here’s how I’ve made some glitter jigs using powder paint and glitter.
1. Heat the unpainted jigs in a small toaster oven.
2. Grab the shank of hook with a nip nose pliers and dip it into the powder paint. Adjust the temperature of the oven so that the powder paint melts and sticks to the jig but not so hot that too much powder melts onto the jig. If you get too much paint on the jigs, the paint will drip-off during the post-painting curing step.
3. After pulling the jig out the powder paint, immediately stick it in the glitter. Or you can dip your finger tips into the glitter and then squeeze the jig between your finger and thumb. The glitter will stick to your finger tips. The trick is to squeeze the glitter into / onto the paint before it cools too much and hardens. This embeds the glitter into the paint and locks it in place. Note: The color of the base paint will affect the resulting color of the glitter jig. I use purple paint for purple glitter and white paint for silver glitter. You can experiment to get differnt hues.
4. After the jig cools brush any loose glitter off and remove any paint from the eye of the jigs. Do this before curing the jigs as it will be more difficult after the paint is cured.
5. I hang the jigs on the racks in a regular oven and cure them at 300-350 F. fpr about 30 minutes. This does not harm or melt the glitter. Place some foil under the jigs in case any paint drips from the jigs.
Note: It takes a bit of trial-and-error to find the right temperature for the toaster oven. The temperature will also depend a bit on the size of the jig, how fast you move it from the oven to the paint, and also the particular jar of paint. My powder paints seem to have some variability in their melting point and viscosity of the molten paint.
I’ve purchased my glitter from Hobby Lobby or Micheals craft stores. There are different sized glitter particles. I prefer medium size particles.

Thanks for the information guys. My daughter is 18 year old so she’s done growing. She told me she’s 5’5″. I’d say she’s got average strength for her height and age. Maybe Musky Ed’s bow would be a good option for her. After searching on-line, it seems like Diamond bows by Bowtech has a line of entry bows in the $350-450 range for a basic package. Thanks again for everyone’s advice.

buschman wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Mike W wrote:</div>
Lions can ice in early but this mild fall doesn’t seem like enough to freeze it up yet.

You can get out yet but will be busting ice. Dan said there was about an inch to break a couple days ago. With zero flow back there right now I would plan on 494 moving forward.

Yes, I launched at Lions Wednesday evening and the ice was pretty thick. One boat had busted a path before me so that helped but coming back in a few hours later things had solidified up pretty good again. With an overnight low of 20 F last night, I’m sure the ice is even thicker now. Save yourself the hassle and just use 494. I think Lions is done until spring.

Steve Root wrote:

So anyone experiment with two lines?

While my partners were pitching cranks on the wing dams, I was pitching Dubuque rigs with a jig and plastic for the dropper and a sucker minnow or stick bait on the trailer. I never caught a fish on the trailer all day. But typically during the summer months when I’m using a crawler or leech on the trailer, that’s where I catch 75% of my fish. My partners out fished me 2:1 or better using cranks.

Thanks Mike and Jon for running the contest and thanks to the sponsors for the door prizes. We caught about 15 walleye total. We trolled some sand and rocks and also pitched cranks and plastics on wing dams.

Here’s the fish photos from the second place team of Matt Moen, Jason Papenfuss, and Dan Zillig.

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Tutts in Garrison had chubs for about $18 a dozen. I don’t know what their suckers were priced at.

I know the big minnows catch smallies this time of year. But next time I think I’ll also try a stick bait or a swim bait to experiment and see if those might also catch fish. I’d be nice not having to buy suckers or chubs.

Mike W wrote:

Nice thing is if you pull the sucker out of the fishes mouth just stop and that fish will not let it get away a second time.

Thanks Mike. I learned that the other day. If the smallmouth didn’t get the minnow on a missed hook set, if I just dropped the rod tip right back down, often times I’d get bite real soon afterwards. Fishing in 16 feet of water, I couldn’t see what was going on but I assumed it was the same fish, or another one competing for the minnow.

I had a problem with LED bulbs interfering with not only my garage door opener but the neighbors as well. I just tried a couple of different brands until I found one that didn’t cause a problem. This was a Sears Craftsman opener. It took me a while to figure out what was going on. The remote opener always worked when coming home since the bulb was off. But when leaving the garage and trying to close the garage door, if often wouldn’t work. It even caused the next-door neighbor’s garage door to open. Weird and kind of scary.

Great advice. Last year I was bow hunting in Wisconsin shortly before the rifle season opener. I saw a “shooter” that was out of range for a vertical bow. My boy was going to be back from college for the season but his Tikka 270 WIN was on the only rifle in the family. So I bought a Savage 270 from Fleet Farm so my son and I both had rifles. I went to the Oakdale range that afternoon. They bore sighted it at FF and I was hitting the paper and dialing it in but, dang, the POI was moving around. Not consistent. I was puzzled. The range guy suggested a lose rings and a another guy next to me had the needed tools and took the time to help me out. It wasn’t long and I had it dialed in pretty good. It was a factory mounted scope package. I never thought to check the rings to make sure they were tight. I think I might upgrade the scope this fall and I’ll make sure to get everything tightened.

Kind of a funny story… I bought a Benjamin Maurader 22 cal pellet gun and put a Vortex Crossfire rimfire scope on it last year. I could get the POI kind of close but never quit right. If I was hitting 4″ to the left, I’d adjust it now I was high, etc. I was just chasing my tail trying to get that thing dialed in. Eventually I looked at the picture on the scope box and I knew then what was wrong. I had it mounted 90 degrees off. Instead of the turrets being on the left and top, mine were on the top and right. That pellet gun is very accurate now.

My buddy is a very good golfer. I’ll tell him to bring his clubs in case we can’t get on the lake one day.

gimruis wrote:

It can get rough if there’s a west or NW wind though, just be aware of that.

I’ve only got a 17 foot Lund Explorer so we’ll be hoping it’s not too windy for us to get out. If there’s a pretty strong NW wind and it’s too windy for us to get out on the SE area, how much calmer would it be up by the Garrison reef for example?

Was fishing with my dad out of his boat this past Saturday morning. His 2005 60 hp EFI Merc was not charging the battery. The voltage continued to drop over a couple hour trip. Did a little on-line searching and determined the most probable cause was the voltage regulator/rectifier. Ordered one from Amazon late Saturday and it was shipped via USPS. Amazon said it’d arrive by 9:00 p.m. Monday. I was doubtful. It arrived by noon on Monday! The box for the part in the Amazon bag showed a Mississippi address. I don’t know if it was actually shipped from MS to East Dubuque, IL, but pretty impressive delivery wherever it came from.

Got the part installed which is just a couple of bolts and a couple of electrical clip plugs and know the voltage reads 13.4 – 13.7 when the motor is running. Hopefully that solves the problem.

All fish must be caught by legal MN fishing methods. Only one line per person. Illegally caught or kept fish will be disqualified.

Still only one line or we can use two since two are now legal on P2?

I set up the overlay displays on my graph to show the starting battery voltage along with water temp, time of day, etc. I think most mid-level or higher graphs have that capability. It’s an easy way to keep an eye on the status of the battery.

A friend and I fished smallmouth on Sunday, May 28th. Tough going for us, at least for size. We caught over 20 smallies but the largest was just 16.5″ Most were in the 13-14″ range. Ned rigs caught the most but some also were caught on an X-Rap. We fished the NW corner of the lake on Garrison and Myr Mar reefs targeting rocks/boulders/rock-to-sand transitions in 5-10 feet of water. At times we could see a half dozen or more smallies under the boat. I could get them to swim up to a jerk bait but the vast majority would not hit it. We also tried drop-shotting a tube and also slip bobbering a leech. We had a water temp of 53 in Garrison bay in the morning and as hot at 63.7 F on top of Mry Mar reef in the late afternoon.

We were not fishing close to other boats all that often, but when we did, we didn’t see anyone else catch anything. That goes for boats that appeared to be fishing smallies or boats fishing walleye.

We thought we saw what appeared to be beds in sand areas between big rocks.

We’re debating if we should give it another try in early or mid June or just wait until next spring and try to get there earlier in the season.

Jackie Moon wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>boone wrote:</div>
What’s the advantage of having two units at the console? It seems to me that it would be better to use the money and space to purchase just one bigger unit. Then if you want two screens, you can run a split screen on the bigger unit. But if you want the biggest side image possible, use the top half for side imaging and the bottom half for mapping. I have a Humminbird 12″ and often run side imaging in the top half, mapping in the bottom left, and down imaging in the bottom right. Or if I’m scanning a sand flat, I might run the side imaging full screen. Or if I’m up on plane, I might run the mapping full screen. I just think you get the best of both worlds using one bigger unit.

For quality of imaging, I like to use 1 dedicated screen for imaging, and then one for 2D & mapping split screen.

Even a large screen, when you split it up into 3-4 sections, it gets too small IMO.

It seems to me that the quality of a side image is directly related to the horizontal width of the screen. The more horizontal pixels you have the better image definition you’ll get. The vertical length of the screen just shows the “history” of what you’ve already imaged, with the bottom part of the image showing the oldest information. For 2D, I don’t think the screen width is as important as it is with side imaging, but more width will show more “history” in that case.

Good luck with whatever you decide. But if you have a chance, jump in someone’s boat that has a 10 or 12 inch screen and see how you like it. Or maybe you can do that at the store in demo mode or something.

What’s the advantage of having two units at the console? It seems to me that it would be better to use the money and space to purchase just one bigger unit. Then if you want two screens, you can run a split screen on the bigger unit. But if you want the biggest side image possible, use the top half for side imaging and the bottom half for mapping. I have a Humminbird 12″ and often run side imaging in the top half, mapping in the bottom left, and down imaging in the bottom right. Or if I’m scanning a sand flat, I might run the side imaging full screen. Or if I’m up on plane, I might run the mapping full screen. I just think you get the best of both worlds using one bigger unit.

Funny that battery had enough power to start the vehicle but then died on the ramp. If the alternator was bad, you should have had a warning light indicating that before everything died.

I had an alternator go out on my 2007 Honda Pilot last summer and a red battery indicator light came on before the battery was totally dead. I managed to limp into a car dealership. It killed on their lot and wouldn’t even turn over. The service manager put a power pack on it and it started right up. He lowered the hood enough to drive it into the shop with the power pack still hooked up to the battery. I wonder if that would have worked in your situation if you would have had a something like a Gooloo jump starter.

Do the barges still operate in this high of water or do they tie up somewhere and just wait it out? It seems like it would be difficult to make progress upstream, and going downstream they’d be going so fast it would be hard to make through railroad openings and under some bridges.

FishBlood&RiverMud wrote:

For the Mississippi River pools 2-5 we currently have the largest biomass of walleye.

This as a result of high water springs which promote successful spawning conditions.

I cannot speak for pools further downstream but would doubt that conditions aren’t similar in creating or building the walleye population.

Female <strong class=”ido-tag-strong”>walleye die at or before reaching 8yrs old and males may occasionally make it to 9yrs of age. Sippi is UNIQUE to other fisheries in MN in this respect.

What this means for 2023 to 2030 is the largest quantity of <em class=”ido-tag-em”>walleye having another successful spawn which will populate the river with yet another record class.

For 8 years to come, excellent fishing to be had! I question how high can the bar be raised.

Just something for y’all to look forward to.

Cheers.

In addition to spawning success, what roll do you think food availability plays in sustaining a huge biomass of walleyes and saugers? This is probably a good question for Nick. If the fry don’t have whatever they eat, maybe that year class will be poor in spite of favorable water levels and temperatures. Maybe that’s never an issue. Or what happens if the shad have a few poor year classes in a row, does the walleye population drop as a result? I’m guessing it’s a combination of factors that results in strong walleye and sauger populations.

Lions Levee in St. Paul Park might be an option. It has a nice double ramp and a dock. Do you know anything about boating on the Mississippi, especially with raising water that’s happening now? There will be debris floating in the water… logs, sticks, maybe even some trees. The current is typically not very strong at that ramp.

The lower St. Croix down stream of Stillwater would be a better option but I’m guessing that’s still iced-up. Lake Pepin would have less current and less debris but a longer drive from the north metro.

Jimmy Jones wrote:

I don’t think they hire anything but what might be called supplemental help right now. No beans, mandatory overtime and weekends. I know a couple of people who applied and got jobs but they sure weren’t what one would call “good” jobs. Both had crappy hours and were basically on call on their days off and heaven forbid if a doctor’s appt popped up. Or a sick kid sent home from school or daycare. Both lasted about a month.

Do you get time-and-half or double time for the overtime worked? It sounds like a supplemental position might be a good summer job for a hard-working, college student that wants a bunch of hours.

Update to an old thread….

I’m glad I got the jet ski. We had fun using it in during the summer of 2022. After a year, my thoughts are:
1. As several people mentioned, two jet skis would have been more fun than one. But I didn’t want to get two for several reasons, one being that the second jet ski would most likely be used by my kids friends. I didn’t want to “buy” my kid’s friends a jet ski. Also, two would cost twice as much and I’d need a double trailer.
2. The Yamaha EX Sport is small but still has a 3 person capacity so you can tow a tube in states where a spotter is required. It’s way fast enough.
3. Don’t ever get a jet ski that doesn’t have reverse. Without reverse, I’d be crashing into docks, the trailer, etc.
4. I thought I’d take it out by myself when fishing got slow but last summer the bite stayed strong so I chose to go fishing instead of jet sking.
5. My Honda CRV had no trouble towing the jet ski but it only weights 576 lbs and it come with an aluminum trailer.
6. My son and I installed the hitch and wiring harness on the CRV. We got them from etrailer.com. I chose a hitch that’s hidden up behind the bumper fascia so it has a nice, clean look. There’s only five bolts that mount the hitch to the CRV. And the wiring harness just clips into to a socket. No wires needed to be spliced. Thankfully there were a couple of excellent YouTube videos.

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This is an eye-opening thread for me. I thought USPS jobs had good pay and benefits and were desired by many people. Looks like I’m wrong. I was curious what the pay was for a mail carrier. From what I see on-line, it looks to be about $20/hr starting out. Seems like there’s a lot of required overtime so hopefully that pays 1.5X and 2X on Sundays. Working for the federal government, I would think that there’s decent benefits.

matt wrote:

6.99$ for 2 3/8oz tungsten roundball jigheads from Northland Tackle.May as well drive down to the river toss a couple 20$ bills in and then head home,be cheaper then fishing with them.

I won’t comment on the bill but will say that there are cheaper, non-lead alternatives other than tungsten. If the use of lead in jigs and weights is banned, I suspect it’ll be replaced with Bismuth-Tin alloy. Bismuth-Tin alloy is only about 75% as dense as lead but I don’t think that’ll matter much in open water fishing. There’s currently a listing on Ebay for 50, 1/4 oz. unpainted, bismuth-tin alloy jigs for $28.49 ($0.57 each). A 58% Bismuth – 42% Tin alloy melts at 281 F vs. 621 F for lead. I’ve never tried to pour Bismuth-Tin alloy jigs but I suspect it will be possible. From what I read, Bismuth-Tin expands slightly as it cools so I don’t know how that would affect typical Do-It jig molds.
So it’s true that non-lead alternative fishing tackle will be more expensive than lead, it won’t be at tungsten prices.