It’s definitely not the same as the Vietnam War protests in the 60’s and 70’s but while I don’t condone damage to property, I find it refreshing in a way that college age kids care enough about a world issue to protest the actions of our government. Maybe there is still hope for our country.
Rubber all the way for me. I’ve tried others over the years but I always come back to rubber because anything else that I’ve tried snags trebles on cranks. The extra weight is worth it for me.
It looks to be in great shape with not much if any fixing required.
These humane societies are a joke.
I disagree 100%. We’ve adopted dogs from Humane Societies in SD, ND and MN and they’ve all been great. I think they perform a much needed service for neglected and homeless pets and for us humans that love animals. Two of the dogs we have now we’ve adopted from Humane Societies. I we get anther dog some day, it’ll be from a Humane Society also.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Karry Kyllo wrote:</div>
Minn Kota trolling motors with improved spot lock that included the heading sensor were first available late in 2017.I was told direct by a Minn Kota rep. that the heading sensor has no effect at all on the spot lock accuracy. The only reason to even mount it was if you like and use the Jog feature. When I purchased and mounted mine last summer I did not even mount the Heading sensor at all. The jog feature was not anything I cared about. If I want to move the boat 5 ft any direction I will stop the spot lock and move the boat and re-spot lock it again.
The Minn Kota rep was of course correct. Improved GPS accuracy and use of the heading sensor aren’t related but GPS accuracy was improved and the heading sensor was first available in 2017. If you don’t need the jog feature when using spot lock, you don’t even need to hook up the heading sensor as others have said, but why not hook it up if you have it? It’s simple to do and it’s a nice feature that you paid for.
Legal precedents are what they are, old contracts are still contracts yes?
This really says it all doesn’t it?
It does look like the Quest series has improved GPS accuracy and another nice new feature is “Distance to Spot”.
From Minn Kota:
INCREASED ACCURACY
Updated hardware and software algorithms mean Spot-Lock can hold you on a spot more accurately than ever before.
DISTANCE TO SPOT
This reading on the remote tells you how close your trolling motor is to your set Spot-Lock.
Minn Kota trolling motors with improved spot lock that included the heading sensor were first available late in 2017.
Grubson that’s exactly what I said about fishing restrictions….
I don’t think you understand red lake tribes hate for the white man. It’s unlike any other tribe/rez in America. Ever drive through the rez?
I guess we’ll agree to disagree.
If this passes (highly doubtful) it’s time to prepare the militia.
You sound pretty radical. Prepare the militia for what?
For the record, I’m not a member of MN-Fish but I don’t think they’ll get involved or at least I don’t think they should. It’s actually not a fishing issue, it’s a land issue.
I don’t think that returning Upper Red Lake to the native Americans is really an issue for MN-Fish. It’s way beyond the scope of their purpose.
Spawn isn’t only triggered by water temperature but a combination of water temperature and photoperiod. It’s just a bit early yet.
Phoyem,
How long and what kind of lead do you run with your leadcore?
I troll leadcore slightly different and I catch alot of walleyes trolling with it also. There are many ways to troll with leadcore and it boils down to what one gets used to and learns to use.
I started trolling leadcore years ago with regular 18 lb. dacron leadcore and still use either the Mason or the Sufix Performance that both sink in the neighborhood of 5 feet/color at 2 mph. I troll leadcore with 10.5 ft. rods and use leads of about 8 feet of 15 lb. Power Pro on each, attached to the leadcore by small barrel swivels that will almost eliminate line twist if a crank becomes fouled which happens. The barrel swivels are small enough to go through the rod eyelets if someone makes a mistake and reels in too much line when reeling line in. Many cranks like to spin when they get fouled and twisted leadcore is a PIA.
Anyway, I just estimate approximately how deep a crank will run trolled with eight feet of 15 lb. Power Pro and just subtract that depth from the total depth. As a rule of thumb, the depth that most cranks run when trolled behind 8 ft. of 15 lb. Power Pro is pretty similar so I generally just estimate 2 ft. for all of the cranks that I troll. The walleyes have never seemed to mind.
In your example, I’m curious how you get a 10 ft. diving depth for a #7 Shad Rap. I’m not Not saying you’re wrong, I’m just curious how you calculated it.
This is how I run leadcore and have been or years. If I want to get a #7 Shad Rap to 24 ft. I estimate that 8 ft. of 15 lb. Power Pro will get a #7 Shad Rap down about 2 feet. I subtract that from 24 ft. so I need my leadcore to get the Shad Rap down another 22 ft.. At 5 ft./color, I need 132 feet of leadcore to get down 22 ft. and adding that to the leader, I’m down to 24 ft..
Some guys will tell you that your leader has to be fluoro or you need the stretch of a mono leader or you will lose fish but the rod also plays an important part in the whole thing. I’ve honestly never had an issue catching fish of keeping fish on once they are caught.
The depth that cranks run may vary slightly from where you think they are running but you know for certain that if you are banging bottom, they are too deep. If that happens just reel up a couple of turns and if you start catching walleyes, make a mental note of the number on your line counter and keep repeating it. There are days when walleyes prefer coming up from several feet to eat a crank and like them higher.
My wife and I troll cranks using snapweights at the same time that we troll cranks with leadcore wherever more than one rod/angler is legal and usually point our LiveScope transducer back to watch one of the snapweight cranks to see how walleyes are reacting. One thing that I have learned from it is that is that walleyes will go up quite a ways to get a crank most of the time. Many times they will swim all the way up to inspect a snapweight. I’d much rather err on the shallow side than run cranks too deep.
It all takes experimentation.
Now it’ll really get interesting.
Cousins going to Atlanta in a 4 year deal. No details yet.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Karry Kyllo wrote:</div>
Attached are some photos of my 12 ft. Talon with a tilt bracket mounted on my Alaskan. It should be similar.Thank for those pics , did you mount it yourself or the dealer ?
I mounted it myself. It was actually pretty simple to do. I’m happy how it turned out.
Here’s what I’ve got. It’s a little different than yours but the green wire looks like it might be the culprit.
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Maybe this?
I don’t know which size you need but there many available online if you google “Rule aerator pump cartridge replacement”.
I’ll try to remember to take some photos and post them tonight.
I can take some photos of mine tonight (although it’s a 2011) if you need some but I have a number of Merc 9.9 PDF files on my computer. Although they are from an older model, I looked through them and found one that may help you and attached it. Look on page 2B-5.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>JoeMX1825 wrote:</div>
I’m looking to replace my 2013 80 lb Terrova with a new model. I like the simplicity of the Terrova, but the auto stow & deploy & trim of the Ulterra sounds really nice.I’ve had an “Auto Pilot” white top, Terrova, Terrova Link, Ulterra Link and now my Ulterra Quest is in the box in my garage.
What I like is the heaver build, redesigned transport system for stow and deploy. I never had an issue with water per say, I had one issue early on that was in to the authorized service center and he noted moisture and reassembled it to stop it from happening.
The quest series is quicker and more responsive. Dule voltage, 24 or 36 it will sense what it is being fed. I believe if you have a 36v system and one battery goes down, it will not switch over. You will need to unhook the bad battery and then it will proceed to the 24v.There are other advantages with the new motor too. The disadvantage is the price! Mine is the 36v 72″ msidi @ $4500. Second with the Ulterra 36v is the new $5oo. quick release bracket that is suggested to mount under it!
This will be my last new buy.
They are definitely pricey but I bought the same Ulterra Quest. I haven’t installed it yet either. I found a quick release bracket for a bit over $300.
I’ve had a 112 lb. thrust with a 72″ shaft Ulterra and i-Pilot Link for several years and have loved it but decided to upgrade. By the way, it’s for sale if anyone’s interested.
Tilt brackets are optional.
I still buy plenty of items from Bass Pro/Cabelas. I miss the Cabelas brand too (especially the great sales) but it is what it is.
I buy alot of crankbaits from Bass Pro/Cabelas and just this week bought a Quest Ulterra from there. I buy from other places as well and where I buy depends on availability and price. Bass Pro/Cabelas is generally very competitive on prices .
Attached are some photos of my 12 ft. Talon with a tilt bracket mounted on my Alaskan. It should be similar.
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The spawn will probably be earlier than normal if water temperatures are warmer than usual but photoperiod also plays a part in when walleyes spawn.
There are still plenty of new Ulterras online that aren’t Quest series models.
Dave,
What kind of link between Minn Kota and Lowrance did you have on your older Ranger? I’m just curious.
I wasn’t aware that that it was ever possible to link them.
I have a Peet and I love it for boots and gloves.
Have you ever tried Lake Sakakawea? If not, I’d highly recommend it too. You won’t get Lake Trout like Fort Peck but the walleye fishing in June and July up in and around the Van Hook Arm is about as good as walleye fishing gets in this part of the world.
