Thanks 3Rivers for the videos and info.
Maybe a question for your contact at Mr. Heater – can the plastic sleaves be replaced? It’s concerning that yours are already getting loose from a minimal amount of use…
Seemed odd that the torch didn’t work that well with this – have to wonder how they work on Coleman lanterns and stoves?
Thanks Dave! The site seems much faster today.
Not sure how the search function operates on the site, but that can be a HUGE resource hog on databases – maybe eliminate that and encourage people to use Google, etc. to search the site.
Glass lens are WAY more scratch resistant. Disposable plastic glasses/goggles are lighter and adequate for light debris and defense against spray paint, etc. but buy several and view them as throw aways.
NEVER use paper towels or tissues to wipe any lens – it will scratch the lens. Like has been said, clean them under water and add a drop of dish soap if they’re greasy then wipe with a cloth.
Get different glasses for different uses. Wrap-around polycarb sunglasses are fine for mowing, but get dedicated safety glasses for grinding, using wire brush wheels, and drilling, etc. Sparks and broken wheels from grinding, wire that sheds from wire wheels, and drill chips or broken drill bits all can make for a very bad day…
It forgets my login and slow loads/locks up regularly.
With the login issue it sometimes helps if I click a different heading or section for it to remember.
I purchased a larger T handled allen wrench. Make it much easier to use and not lose.
DT
Good idea – a “hex key wrench set” that looks like a Swiss army knife is another “less likely to be lost” option.
The allen wrench size for Flame Kings is .080 so either a 5/64″ or 2mm wrench works.
Diamondback covers have tiedown cleats on the sides if something like that would fit on your cover. But am guessing your cover wasn’t designed to carry cargo on top? Besides the shelter’s weight you would also have pressure from strapping it down, so be sure that whatever you do doesn’t cave the cover.
There are a lot of great noodle rods available so it’s a matter of matching your specific lure size/type you plan to use the rod for that will make one of them “the best” for you.
Have a newer legend thermal. Seat has to come out to fit under cover not a big deal for me. Love the width and weight of the legend for solo early ice. Can’t stand a typical narrow one man.
Not a great time to be looking for a deal and like everything else yes they are pricey.
Looking at the Legend XT for a light to pull shelter that is big enough for me at 6’4 that I don’t feel like I’m wrapped in a tortilla. How much of a hassle is taking the seat out for it to fit under a truck cover?
I don’t go by the on battery status indicator on my Norsk 15 amp to judge if it is at full charge. I leave it on the charger until the charger light turns green. Maybe let the battery sit for a week and check the voltage or hook it up to the charger to see how long it charges. Call Norsk again if it dropped more than you think it should.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
No need for sand bags – keep your gas tank at 1/2 to full. BIG improvement over running with a near empty tank and no sand bags, etc. taking up space in your truck bed.
The “Project Farm” channel on YouTube tested different aspects of safety boots – could help narrow your search for what boots match your needs.
Try spraying the ignition switch tumblers with WD-40. If no change, it needs either a new ignition switch, or the linkage to the switch is loose/bad. Best to park it until fixed or it WILL strand you somewhere soon from your description.
Good luck.
Besides the fact that Mike says they are a no go for well water, I’d have to believe in reincarnation for both me and the water heater to come close to breaking even with a tankless heater.
The only gas appliances I have are the furnace and water heater. I pay more for “Customer Charges” and other bs fees on the gas bill in summer than I do for the gas. With no furnace use in the summer, the actual gas costs about $6 a month to run the water heater – and that’s a full time pilot light, chimney vent style.
Just about every new home is like that with the floor drains.
Are you on well water Dan? Well water in my area can prolong the life of the water heaters. The city water just to the south of us eats them up much faster.
If you are on well water talk to the plumber about changing out the anode rod on the new water heater so you don’t get rotten egg smelling hot water.
I don’t see many water heaters that really let loose but it does happen. Keep an eye on it.
Thanks Mike. It’s well water with iron and lime/calcium in it, but haven’t had a problem with rotten egg smells – or can that be caused by the anode rods in new water heaters?
25+ year old water heater.
You like living on the edge, eh?
The date of manufacture on it is 1989, so maybe 30+ years old.
Hard water (I don’t like softened water) so I flush a couple gallons of water from the heater tank every week to keep the rust scale from filling it up. When I mentioned that to a plumber he said “Your water heater is going to last a LONG time.” Guess he was right!
As to a floor drain. There’s one just a couple feet away from from the water heater, with the floor pitched so that water flows AWAY from the drain. Not too helpful…
The girl I spoke with at the plumbers said “Hopefully they can replace the water heater this week.”
It’s still just a minor leak from the tank, but had hoped to get it done sooner so that I don’t have to be on “leak watch” to keep from being flooded.
Do small leaks from the tank usually stay that way for a few days, or can they turn into BIG leaks?
It’s 25+ years old so going to be replaced.
Mike – I’m several hours away from North Metro or you’d get the call – thanks.
The water is not coming down the pressure relief pipe – it’s seeping down by one of the heater’s feet.
I think the reason the water temporarily dried up under it was because I ran a bunch of hot water (while I have it…) to put in pans to defrost the freezer and the heat from the burner maybe dried up the seepage.
Thanks everyone.
Was just in the basement and saw a little water again. I guess I can buy a new water heater with a clear conscience and not think that I wasted money on that instead of buying more fishing stuff.
Thanks Dee. Gas water heater.
I looked at the pressure relief valve last night, and the top of the unit was dry so my guess was that it’s seeping out of the tank. But if the tank was leaking it seems odd that it would stop?
Thanks Nodak.
2H for highway driving unless it’s really sketchy, then 4H. 4H off road BEFORE getting stuck cuts the chance of getting too stuck in 2H to be able to get yourself out – especially for vehicles that need to move slightly to engage the 4 wheel drive…
Keeping your gas tank between 1/2 to Full helps a lot with pickups for stability and traction, and is safer than putting unsecured weights in the back of a vehicle.
Enroll her in Jiujitsu classes. Duluth is big enough to have this opportunity.
It will change her life and benefit her in all aspects.
Agreed. This or Karate, etc. will not only protect her, but will make her more self-confident, and feel safer and happier. Get the pepper spray for now, but that isn’t always right at hand and has limited uses so is also a crutch/source of anxiety. Karate will always be with her.
Mucks are notorious for cracking. Even if you can fix then temporarily they will fail again and not worth risking your feet. Get Muck to replace them or buy another brand of new boots.
It was a bit better, but now back to daily logins……
Worked for maybe a week, but not today.
A couple of tips for fishing with a bad back.
Take Aleve, Advil, etc. BEFORE you go fishing – WAY easier to prevent the pain before it starts than to stop a “pain avalanche.”
Have someone else drill the holes, or get an auger that doesn’t grab at the bottom of the hole so that you don’t get jerked around by the auger or have to be braced for it to maybe grab. ION augers are probably the smoothest.
Good luck.
It could be if for a stand-alone Norsk battery? The charger for the Norsk that came with my Helix looks different. Tried to upload a photo, but my phone seems to be “constipated” again…
Photo finally went through.
charger-1-scaled.jpg
Everyone complains about the drag on their reels. Drag washers are cheap and so is drag grease. Take it apart and clean it up. The manufacture applies way too much grease like many companies. This is done because so many people don’t take care of their reels. Would you prefer to have a great drag and do yearly maintenance or a drag that is ok but you never have to touch it?
The drag system on inline reels is a bad design that isn’t cured by better drag washers – essentially a star-shaped nut on a bolt so there’s a VERY fine line between no drag and locked tight. And no “click adjustment” like other reels so they also sometimes self adjust looser/tighter.
13 Decent reels are also frequently shipped with NO oil on the bearings. They work fine after oiling, but don’t freespool very well with no oil…
A better drag and oil on every reel’s bearings and the reels could be GREAT and would change the negative perception many have about inline reels – an opportunity waiting for someone to make these changes….
It has sounded like Marcum shuttles are very prone to problems. Maybe a good time to move on to something else instead of investing more time and money in this one.
The major brands all make good snowblowers. I was shopping for one last year and went with a 24″ Ariens Deluxe. Bigger engine and narrower width = less clogging to my thinking. Ariens are also heavier duty construction. It weighs 30 or so pounds more than competitor’s comparable units which means more METAL and less plastic.
