Total Boat penetrating epoxy

Riverruns wrote:

This is what I would want. I sure don’t want a knife that is sharp from the mud section ant not sharp out towards the tip.

Is that what most sharpeners will do that are electric? Thanks

I personally found it too easy to round off the tip of the blade with the belt

The worksharp electric sharpener never leaves the cupboard anymore. you have to be so careful not to ruin the tip of a blade and it will remove it, FAST. not worth it to me. I use a work sharp guided sharpener now with diamond and ceramic stones. Yes, it takes longer, but i can get my knives very sharp, with an actual sharp and pointy tip.

Sorry, off topic but have you had your model 700 checked for a recall? A lot em work for years and then start firing without the trigger being pulled. Had mine for years and then that started.
Dangerous. I scrapped it.
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This 700 is probably 40 years old. never had an issue.

If you were to set her up with a bolt 223 and some HEAVY for caliber projectiles (77 TMK, 75 ELDm, etc.) they are more than sufficient for deer sized game at reasonable ranges.
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you’re not wrong, but I already have the 22-250 and she shoots it well. Many bolt action 223 have the same issue of having too slow of a twist for heavy bullets unless you are buying some of the shorter barreled options out there that get to a 1:8 twist.

I figured if someone can take a deer with a 223, why wouldn’t the extra speed of the 250 pushing the same bullet be better? I don’t plan on this being a permanent solution. Once she’s bigger, she’ll be using the 243 or 6.5.

tswoboda wrote:

Oh and I don’t want to derail this thread on “small bore” deer rifles, but is .224 cal still too small?? Seems to me .243 is a lot closer to .224 than it is to .308

My dad has a Rem 700 in 243 that my sister and I have taken many deer with it. It’s very deadly.

22-250 is very popular in Europe as a deer hunting caliber. I have always been hesitant to use anything that small before. With my 22-250 having a 1:9 twist, my goal is to load up a heavier Barnes TSX and let my 10 year old daughter use it this year. She’s been shooting it at 200 yds for a couple years now. I don’t think her small frame can handle my 270 WIN quite yet.

I make a lot of vinegar based sauces. you can really play around with the ingredient, which is fun. When I’ve done it, i blend everything with the vinegar then simmer for 20-30 minutes. toss it in the blender and then you can strain it out. I found that if i strain it, it will seperate. Best solution i found to avoid it is to just add a little xanthan gum. It thickens the sauce a small bit and keeps it from separating.

Lately I have been playing around with fermenting. I use a 2.5% salt to fresh ingredients by weight ratio. toss the peppers and anything else into a vacuum sealer bag with extra space for the gases it will create, add your salt, seal it up, and wait for 2 weeks. then blend it.

i run the Engel 13 with the Norsk Aerator. It is so quiet. I either plug it into the USB on the boat or use a portable power supply. It is also handy to plug it in to a charger in the truck and not worry about batteries

waldo9190 wrote:

Boy oh boy that rifle is just asking for something in the 67-80 grain weight range. Some of the heavier fusions and/or the 77 TMK from Sierra would be potent whitetail medicine at reasonable ranges.

A 1:8 223 Tikka is on my short list of next rifles to buy.

Currently handloading with 55 grain Sierra Game King (1365) with very good results. 55 grain bullets still lets the 250’s speed shine for varmints/predators.

I am planning on picking up some 65 gr Barnes TSX to give a try. If it groups well I think it could be a good starter for my daughter on a deer. I’ve read some very good reviews of the 22 caliber TSX bullets. 22-250 is very popular in Europe for deer sized animals.

I used to work for the MPCA. We spent all day, every day in waders. Aqua Seal was hands down the best product for patching waders and boots. It sticks the best and remains flexible.

Ralph Wiggum wrote:

@scholly Holy crap, where was this?! I haven’t seen them in ages–major downfall of life in the metro.

10-12 miles North of Little Falls probably

Last night was probably the best I’ve ever watched. looking to the North they stretched 180° to the West and East, and all of the way overhead.

I installed this app called “My Aurora Forecast” that notifies me when the chances are high to see them. Its been accurate so far.

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I have a lot of experience with the Banish 30 and Banish 223 from Silencer Central. One thing I would recommend doing is shoot an AR with a can on it first. I have to say I was disappointed coming from only shooting suppressed bolt actions before that. There’s a pretty good pop still from an AR vs a bolt. You can’t get around that. You will also get blowback with an AR. You can adjust gas blocks to avoid that.

I would recommend either can from Silencer Central. Titanium, serviceable, and very lightweight when you start comparing others. One brand I have been curious about is Huxwrx. They claim to have less blowback and no need to adjust gas blocks with AR platforms.

For me the main factor was weight. Even the lightest cans are noticeable and change the feel of your rifle a lot.

CaptainMusky wrote:

I dont think Paul Dick did the Iron Dog, but Rex may have. Paul was a heckuva cross country racer though and engineer at arctic cat.

Rex and Paul have both run the Iron Dog.

Paul’s son Brian is the engineer and XC racer. They ran Iron Dog together at least once.

I know Paul from this crew. He’s always on the go, and a heck of a good guy. Its crazy to imagine doing a trip like this and all of the times he has raced the Iron Dog.

As far as running these sleds, Paul knows Arctic Cat better than most. After the years of racing and having an AC engineer/racer as a son, I’d say he chose what he’s comfortable with and knows. Same could be said for Rex Hibbert.

SconnieFib wrote:

The Striker Combat glove has been the best glove I have found. Extremely warm, still able to fish with it/remove hooks, and one of the best I’ve had for keeping my hands warm on long ATV rides out.

agreed. and the really long cuff is great for the snowmobile rides. it keeps your wrists covered and is easier to pull on than a tight elastic cuff.

Doctor Spoon. You can still buy them, but I have some old timers of my grandpa’s.

Craig Sery wrote:

About time you can use more than 2 colors on lakemaster maps!

The VX charts allow for more colors and more than 2 areas.

Fish Smart is gone but One Boat Network is on the way

https://www.humminbird.com/learn/one-boat-network-app

CRB Micro Guide Bands

Tikka. In the price range of these rifles, you won’t find a better factory trigger or a bolt as smooth.

I own a Tikka T1X MTR in 22 LR and it is a tack driver. My dad recently bought a Bergara BMR (steel barrel) and I think it might out shoot my Tikka. I think the Tikka feels better in hand and the bolt is smoother. Factory trigger goes to the Tikka, but the Bergara can be upgraded to a Rem 700 trigger so it has a ton of options.

I wouldn’t call either of them a true target rifle though. They are both pretty light weight rifles. The Tikka weighing in slightly heavier. Tikka does have a target option, the T1X UPR, but I’ve never seen one in store.

We both spent a lot of time researching 22 LR before purchasing. I was debating on a CZ, but settled for Tikka. He wanted the Bergara because reviews were good and I have had good luck with Bergara centerfire.

Fibertech Productions out of Nisswa did a musky for my dad a few years ago that turned out great.

I run a Bergara B14 Ridge chambered in 22-250 with a 4-16×44 Vortex Viper for glass. I upgraded to a Trigger Tech trigger and it is by far my favorite rifle. From my experience, if you hit a coyote with a 250 it either drops in its tracks or only makes it a short ways. I have shot them with a 223 and noticed more runners. A 223 will definitely get the job done though. That being said, with the way ammo has been I wish I also had a 223 because the 22-250 is hard to buy for.

As far as bolt vs AR… I am not a fan of AR platforms. Most don’t have a good trigger from the factory. My biggest gripe is even using one with plastic or carbon components, they are cold when winter hunting for coyotes. Carrying them is also less convenient.

tornadochaser wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Ryan Scholl wrote:</div>
buying through Silencer Central was a piece of cake.

How pushy were they on trying to get you to buy the Banish 30 Gold model?

Not at all. I purchased the Banish 30. We never even talked about the Gold.

buying through Silencer Central was a piece of cake.

Reed wrote:

I don’t see a “Jigging Mode” option in the menu.

Sorry you are right. That was an older thing. I compared my helix 7 to my dad’s helix 7. My unit is running older software where “jigging mode” is a thing

also double check if jigging mode is on

be careful with some of the Amazon dewalt adapters. they will allow your battery to drain below the allowed voltage for recharging. You have to jump it then to recharge it and can ruin the battery doing that.

The actual dewalt adapter has a chip in it to not let it drain below a certain voltage.

tswoboda wrote:

<div class=”ido-oembed-wrap”>All-in-One Ice Rod Building Startup Kit</div>
This is the easiest, turn key, ice rod building for dummies kit that you will find. Like any kit you’ll get a bunch of stuff you don’t need but the guts of the kit are solid. The wrapper, dryer, and reamer set are all good and would be about $150 alone.

The only thing I would recommend absolutely replacing from this kit is the guides. The epoxy and finish are a little suspect as well, but probably fine.

I agree. I basically have this kit, but have purchased it all separately over the years to replace my DIY setup. You most likely won’t need the reamers for an ice rod, but if you get into it and decide to build something bigger you’ll need them. I use all of the same paste and epoxy in this kit. My biggest recommendation would be to swap the guides as well. Those big clunky guides add so much weight and steal from the action. CRB SSR guides for the bottom 2, and CRB fly for the rest has been my go to combo.

I have had problems with fluoro carbon in general so instead I run braid with a fluoro leaders on my C10 reels. I own 2 of them and they have quickly become 2 of my favorite reels.