TheFamousGrouse wrote:

Ford guys and Sheldon,

The neighbors to the north are both teachers and after hearing them drive into their driveway with their brakes screeching metal on metal I thought I’d better go over there and offer some help. They knew the brakes were bad, Stealership quoted like $1400 and that was a little hard to do right now so they were trying to put it off.

They’re really nice and I know how it is on a teacher’s salary, 3 kids, etc so I said bring it over and I’ll do it for the cost of parts.

2011 Ford Edge. Just short of 63k on this brake job according to the neighbor who luckily keeps a book of receipts with every car.

So I just finished it up and what I found was that the inboard / inside pad on each of the front brakes was totally shot and down to metal backers, but the outside pad on both sides was still about 70% thickness. The metal on metal on the inside pad had totally fried the inboard side of the front rotors.

When I did the first side (passenger), I thought oh bugger we’ve got a stuck caliper here, but the caliper moved freely and pushed back easily on both of the 2 pistons. The slides were not rusted or bound up at all. Pads weren’t damaged or seized and they came easily out of the bracket. All hardware / anti-rattle clips were intact. I cracked the bleeder screws to check for pressure indicating a clogged line, no unusual pressure.

Everything went back together fine. Installed new pads and rotors and all new hardware. Cleaned and regreased slides.

The question is this: Is this the usual pad wear pattern for these Ford Edge small SUVs where the inboard pad takes all the wear? I’m used to a more even wear of the inside and outside pads, but I can find nothing else wrong so maybe this is just normal.

See pictures.

Many thanks.

Grouse

My wife has a 2013 Edge which I’ve changed the front brakes on. The calipers get a little fussy and can hang up pretty easy. Even if you clean/grease the pins. I changed her front brakes around the same mileage and it looked similar. Something to keep an eye on

2020 catalog says the 2060 is 81.5′, but the 1910 is actually 83′ max height with a windshield, so the 1910 is taller than the 2060. 7″ door is cutting it close imo, wouldn’t take much of a lip in the slab entering the garage to cause clearance issues.

Go to Costco and get a set of Michelin Defenders. Solid all around tire IMO and Costco has pretty decent prices on them. free rotations too, if you can put up with their scheduling/crowds

How many graphs do you have, and what size is your starting battery?

I have a group 31 AGM on the same boat with 2 helix 12 and a helix 10. After a long day the starter battery is ~25% when I plug it in to a MK 440PC

you may need a new (bigger) starter battery, or a separate battery just for electronics. Also sounds like your starter battery is defective.

I’m thinking of the same upgrade, but I can’t answer your questions on the quality difference between a $900 12v LiFePO4 and a $350 12v LiFePO4. I’d like to learn that as well. I would note that a 100 AH lead acid group 31 is roughly equivalent to a 50 ah LiFePO4 due to the LiFePO4 being able to maintain voltage at deeper discharge levels and higher overall efficiency. I’m looking at a 12v 60 AH or 12v 80 AH as an upgrade to my lead acid group 31 100 AH. Hopefully someone else can chime in on the reasons for the price difference. I do think the internal battery management system could be a factor which has built in safeguards to prolong the LiFePO4 service life

I have a Napoleon Rogue 425 (2.5 years). Solidly built grill. Nice thick cast iron fire box, cooks evenly. Will get up to 650f if you wanted to sear a steak on it, but it takes a little bit to crank up the heat that high. Sounds like you have plenty of charcoal options to cook bigger cuts / sear steaks on the right way though. I bought mine for burgers and brats when I don’t have time for the weber kettle or smokey mountain. Fits that role well

Do you back off your drag when trolling for musky? That might help with your concern

Don’t need 2 chips. The smart strike chip has the lakemaster maps built in. I’ve found that on new water the smart strike feature seams to point you in the right direction more often than not. There does seem to be some rationale for what areas are being recommended. On a familiar lake, it is probably not going to teach you much

I have 2 Lexas, one with the power handle and one with the double paddles (Winn model) I really like the power handle, but the double paddle handle is also so large (long) that I don’t think it will be an issue. I haven’t used the paddle handle much as I just got it.

I was just up there and went down into Pike bay a little bit (not to the dam). it is 4-5 ft deep in most spots that I was in, but there are hazards, which are really well marked.

Were you testing the units with the pod in the water? The M360 has a wet switch that won’t allow it to spin unless it is submerged. The wet switch looks like two little silver disks on the top side of the pod. When you submerge the unit, it should start spinning.

Would this event ever get cancelled/postponed? I was out last night for a bit, and was disappointed that water temps were well over 80f in most spots on the lake.

I’ll be at the state park in early July for the first time on the lake. Can report back on what we find

Has anyone tried the half tons with a small diesel option? I think Ford, and for sure Ram offers one. They are expensive upgrades, but a lot less than going to a 3/4 or ton right now.

Thanks for the response. I’ll try and clarify

I have 1 livewell in the stern, and one baitwell in the bow and 6 buttons

Bow fill
bow recirc
baitwell fill
baitwell recirc
livewell fill
livewell recirc

I’m not sure why I don’t have only 4 buttons to control the combo of the livewell and baitwell

Make sense?