Kodiak Canvas.

As others have mentioned, if the rod breaks it is not covered under a “warranty”. More like a discount on a replacement. I think the Legends are over $100 and the Eyecon’s are $60 or so.

I can go into Scheels and buy one of their “ONE” series rods for $300+ and snap it over my knee and go back in and get a new one within 3 years.

I do use St. Croix rods and have a lot of them, FWIW.

Not mine…but a buddy caught this 3# 11oz crappie last week.

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Lots of SD Missouri river trips on the schedule. May try and make it over to Erie in March/April if the schedule allows…and then going back to Alaska for 10 days this summer for Halibut/Salmon. It was pre pandemic since we’ve done that trip…so looking forward to it.

Peet with the heating option. Tried and true.

If you hunt and fish, Alaskan Airlines card is hard to beat. Every year you get a ‘companion fare’ for $99 anywhere they fly. From the midwest to Alaska for the two of us every year is $1k.

9-10 years ago we had a 6×14 foot trailer and had two ATVs and shacks in it. The ATV’s were a Rancher 350 and a Polaris Sportsman 500. The Rancher went in first and pulled into the “V” portion and then followed up with the Polaris almost touching the rear of the Rancher. This allowed for two (2) Jason Mitchell Yukon’s to stack on top of each other at the rear. It BARELY fit, but was doable.

slough wrote:

Goodness, I would think you could buy a brand new trailer for a fair bit less than that…

^ and that is what I would push for if it was me.

Nothing new up there for the big fish this time of year. Every year thousands of people flock to Oahe and Sakakawea in search of a giant. 12-14 lb. fish are very common. In 2021 we caught 31 fish over 28″ in length in two days between two boats.

If northerns trip your trigger you should also look into those up there. 20-30# northerns are pretty common.

If you’re wanting a guided trip I would highly suggest Brent Kemintz. https://www.oahewalleyes.com/index.asp

If I was you, I would focus more on the lagoon side. I doubt you will find yourself very popular fishing the main beach of the resort strip. Most of those resorts launch excursions and such from the beach and I would be shocked if they would allow you to fish there. That said, if you can find a rocky outcrop along there somewhere you might have a better chance of being left alone.

Lagoon side has lots of mangroves and boat docks to pitch your swim baits and crank baits. Top water could be fun back in there too. It has been 4-5 years since we have been down there, so no recent help, but I always pack a rod when we travel.

Let us know how you do!

isu22andy wrote:

All the good walleyes are in Manawa anyway ! And the blue cat bites on right now in the zzouri !

Believe it or not my first 30″ walleye came from Manawa. Skinny as a rail, though. There are some toads in there.

Musky Ed wrote:

Venture makes a tandem axel trailer your size for $4500. If you were to sell yours, your into a new trailer for less than upgrading yours.
Took all of 30 secconds to find it online.

Link? Also, not driving to Connecticut.

MX1825 wrote:

I’ve never priced out just a trailer but almost 9k seems like alot for a standard bunk trailer. Did you get more than 1 new trailer quote?

That was through where we got the boat and for a Shorelandr trailer. The funny thing is that Shorelandr is an hour away from me…but can’t order direct. I did call Trailmaster too and they’ve got ones that will fit for ~7,500 but they’re 600 miles away.

Bearcat89 wrote:

Your missing a big opportunity at getting that other trailer for 500 and taking the fenders and axels, have some one fabricate the axel on, use the fenders and have a spare axel

I guess I am missing your point here. Take the axle and fenders and do what with them? Put them on my existing trailer?

Matt Moen wrote:

Something seems off with your trailer. Lotta guys running your same setup without these issues. Have you had the boat back into the dealer to look at it?

Those batteries don’t add a ton of weight if you just swapped to larger. A kicker weighs about a hundred pounds. Guys put heavier coolers in their boats and roll down the road.

Does the boat sit on the trailer correctly? With the kicker off the back maybe you need to get that weight forward on the trailer? Are you contacting all the rollers correctly so the weight is distributed?

I’m assuming you looked at all the possible issues but having to add an axle for a boat that’s not that heavy seems crazy.

3500# axle and springs doesnt take too long to get over weight…

Boat-1,780 lbs.
Kicker-120 lbs.
Main-510 lbs.
4 AGMS-272 lbs.
Full tank-245 lbs.
Terrova-72 lbs.

All of that not counting the trailer is 2,999 lbs and I have way too much crap I put into the boat for trips. Literally everything is stuffed to the gills.

The 185 is offered in a single and dual axle, but the 195 which only weighs 25 lb more at 1805 lbs is only offered in a dual axle.

Boat appears to sit on the trailer correctly. It is a bunk trailer and everything aligns. No trip back to the dealer, as it is 500 miles away where we purchased the boat.

Certainly open to options though. I took the boat to the place that said they could add the axle, and I do trust them and their work. They build and customize trailers/motorcoaches. They are the ones who stated the trailer was severly overloaded and it was evident by looking at the suspension, so I trust their opinion. Now, is there a way to address this without adding the axle I do not know. I went in asking about adding the axle, which they said they could easily do. Is there a better option like the torsion?

Coletrain27 wrote:

Find a used trailer. I searched Facebook and this popped up right away

That is also for a 24′ Larson ski boat. I have checked every dealer/facebook/craigslist within 500 miles. I have also tried to catch people selling their boat with a tandem and giving them $$ for the trailer prior to the sale. No luck. This is why I was pondering the idea of adding the axle as a last resort. I can keep kicking the can down the road for potentially multiple years until one comes available…but was hoping for an immediate solution.

Jason and Justin – appreciate the feedback. These are the kind of educated responses I was fishing for.

Jason – Do you know off hand if a 5k option is suitable for this particular trailer to get the clearance of the “V” bow? I cannot say for certain but a lot of the other trailers I’ve looked at in this class have the straight axle and not the V bend. Without putting a tape on them, they look similar.

Justin – I agree with everything you have stated. It does suck, wish I would have went the tandem route to begin with, but wasn’t sure this storage was ever going to happen. I went with the known and am pissed about it now.

I haven’t heard of many people adding an axle and most suggest upgrading to new…which I get. However, mine is so close to new the loss I will take does not come close to offsetting the cost, which is why I am searching for another option. The company I am looking at builds custom trailers and stated that they would be able to do this correctly and warranty their work, thus the entertainment of the existing upgrade.

The boat that I want will be an additional $40k at the moment, and you are correct. With the additional increase in rates/pricing I will not be pursing that in the near future.

I am not concerned about getting resale out of the trailer, but more concerned about peace of mind on a 1500 mile trip. I have taken steps to be prepared for breakdowns. Floor jack, spare leaf springs, whole hub assemblies etc…I carry enough crap to rebuild the whole suspension if needed after these headaches.

It seems to be a good prodcut, but Bearcat is right on the prep. If you cut corners here and there the finished product will suffer. Bearcats finished floor looks great.

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Bearcat89 wrote:

We had ours done for right around $3k. They did not use traditional epoxy but something else (drawing a blank) that is supposedly 3 times stronger. Not sure if it is a sales pitch or not, but it did come with a 15 year warranty.

How many square foot ?
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Not sure…it is a 2.5 car garage if that helps? The one stall is 32′ deep.

bigcrappie wrote:

I would look at finding a place that would trade in your old trailer for that new one. If your trailer is worth $6k then your only spending $3k to get what you want.

I checked multiple places and the highest evaluation I got was $1200 for my current trailer. Just not a lot of options out there locally. Any of the further options want to see the trailer first and I’m not too keen on driving 8 hours to have a trailer evaluated for a deal that has a high likelyhood of not evolving.

JEREMY wrote:

Is adding a leaf or just a heavier spring an option?

Good point. It may be an option and is worth looking into. Not sure if I can get a leaf that is heavy enough that will shackle to the 3500# vbend axle though from the limited research that i’ve done.

mojogunter wrote:

I doubt it would be cost effective, but I would go with two torsion axles if possible. Leaf springs were very problematic for me. That being said sell the trailer, and buy a new trandem would probably end up being the best option.

The place I got the quote from specializes in trailer modification and stated that it would look factory when done. Not sure on the axle setup. Curious as why you say sell and buy new vs investing less than 50% to get the same thing if they stand behind their work.

I am just picking your brain on the logic behind it. If they are confident the work can be done significantly cheaper than the new route, what is the advantage/disadvantage?

Ripjiggen wrote:

I wouldn’t add a second axle. I would go new or be selling the boat and starting over at this point.

Care to elaborate? I’ve got $20 grand positive equity into this boat. What is the downside of adding an axle? Have you seen boat prices?? Not selling this boat for the foreseable future.

buckybadger wrote:

So has anyone here priced this out recently to have hired and done – per foot?

I know I know not every job is the same, but we have a year old garage with no cracks or issues. Assuming prep is minimal compared to most jobs…?

Our 3 car garage is around 960 sq ft.

We had ours done for right around $3k. They did not use traditional epoxy but something else (drawing a blank) that is supposedly 3 times stronger. Not sure if it is a sales pitch or not, but it did come with a 15 year warranty.

isu22andy wrote:

I have an 05 Superhawk 1800 . 150 4 stroke and kicker . 4 group 29s on board . Shorelander profile 2000 trailer . I’ve had no issues with bearings whatsoever or leaf springs . It does cut out the inside of the tires however . Just curious how many miles are you pulling it a year ?

We average 10-15k miles a year, so more than most. I was told I should have ~3″ of space between the tire and fenders but can barely get my fingers in there. I would bet there is an inch or less. The inside of the fender has wear from the tires hitting it while going down the road.

Clearance was significantly better before adding the kicker and larger series batteries as well.

Rhule has alot to prove and will come out swinging. I’ve got the Huskers.

2013 and newer Toyotas are special trucks. I have personally never seen one with rust living in Nebraska. I may be biased, but outside of a aluminum ford they are the best IMO. Dodge/Chevy seem to rust over the fenders within 10 years as well as the rockers.

I have a 2021 Tundra and this was one of my selling points. I had mine coated from the factory and there is a guy here in town that does the fluid coating every 2 years for $225. Cheap insurance.

https://www.gottschsgoo.com/

Thanks Bearcat! We HATE being inside. 8 months out of the year our living room never gets used. If we are not on the boat somewhere, the backyard is where you can find us.

Bearcat89 wrote:

Brown dog, why did you go paver patio over concrete ?

For the main patio we decided to go with the pavers due to how wet it is back there. A creek used to run through our neighborhood, so some of the yards naturally hold moisture back there. We put the covered deck on ourselves and when I drilled for the sonnet tubes we went down 60″. When I pulled the auger out the tube filled to the top with residual water…it ultimately went away, but very wet.

The patio was to gain more usable space for the yard, as it just stays so wet back there…even days after a rain. It was so soupy back there. When we started to get bids on this there were multiple contractors who said pavers would be better than concrete due to the high likelihood of concrete cracking. Pavers can be pulled out and replaced/re-leveled which is why we went that route for that particular patio.

The poured concrete we went with a stamp pattern that matched the pavers as close as possible.

30×20 is roughly 600 SF. We had a paver patio put in at 560 SF with a fire pit, raised seating wall, and lighting for $11,300.

We just (literally yesterday) had a 12×16.5 stamped and colored patio poured out back from the garage for $3,500.

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