I use the word “Roundup” for Glyphosate kind of the same way I use the word “Kleenex” for facial tissue. We acctually use a chamical by the name of Cornerstone which is a Winfield product.

There are going to be different opinions on this but I would recommend tilling early, let the dorment seeds germ, hit them with a shot of roundup and come back in about 3 more weeks with another shot of roundup or 2,4D and then seed shortly after that. Remember to use a liquid ammonium sulfate with your chemicals to make them more effective

Maybe water is the way for you to go? Where is and what is the source of water that the deer in your area are using? If you had an easilly accesable water source on your property, would that be an attractant? Also, the cattleman and landowner may buy into a water hole a little easier than a food plot.

The disc will work but you will have to go over and over it. I have the KK 5′ tiller for my JD 3038 and I LUV IT!!!

If you drop your pants, sit on the ground and can stand it, the ground is ready for corn

Keep your eyes open for planter options. With $7 corn and $13 dollar beans, a lot of producers are getting out of thier older equipment and buying new during this up-turn in the market. This year I built a 4 row planter out of some IH row units that drive off of the pack wheels and mounted them on a 4″ bar off an old JD hiller. I now have a VERY nice, light weight planter, that I can use with either my JD 3038 or my JD 4010. The bar cost me $65 and the row units cost me $42 a piece at auction

Doc’s has a GREAT product designed especially for low moisture, sandy soil.

Corn will work much better than beans!! The high amounts of N may be a little tough on the plants as they are young, but if you can hit a couple of timely rains so that the plants don’t get to “hot” of a dose for an extended period, you will have some very happy corn plants

Also the fruit size variation that you would get from a strait run of field corn would really screw you up, especially if you are planting with a plated planter

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I think you’d have to do strips of each. My friend typically puts in 10-15 acres of food plots each year. His plan this year is to put forage beans in one side of the planter and regular beans in the other so the forage beans don’t outcompete the regular beans, but so you get strips of each variety in certain foodplots…

I think I plan on putting about 15′ or so of forage beans around the outside of my plot, with strips of corn alternating with strips of regular beans on the inside (or something like that)…

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Id love to do the half and half on the planter but I have an air seeder and there fore everything is mixed together into one hopper. I will most likely be doing the forage either around the outside or just a half plot-half plot. I like your idea about putting the corn in with the ag beans. However, I usually have a very large separate corn plot (starts at 10 acres and take half in fall and leave half year round). That and solely being an archer, I would hate to have to shoot through random corn stalks at the buck ive been waiting for. Granted the idea is to shoot them when they are heading to it, but late season leaves alot of eyes in one spot and can be tricky getting drawn at the right time. Just my thoughts I guess…

on the “moldy doghnut,” you definately got the wheels turning in the head.

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If you are planting on 36″ rows with RR beans you can come back over again with a different seed and plant down the middle of the 36″ rows giving you double rows on 18″ centers.

In our tournament that we hold we also give a cash prize to the Boone and Crowket crow with the largest wingspan

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Thanks, I’ll try that number… I found that same dealer on the Eagle Seed website, but the phone number was different…

FWIW, my buddies forage beans were insanely large last year. And green well into the archery season, which I am looking for (my regular beans were all brown a few weeks prior to the season)… Not much bean production with forage beans, but the tonnage is pretty amazing — which is why I plan on planting both kinds…..

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Copied from the referenced post…

EDIT: Closest dealer:

Midwest Whitetail Mngt. Serv.
Eau Claire, WI
715-495-2988

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You can’t get a catagory 4 bean to stay green up to season?

No I don’t have any problems with those.

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Thanks Bob – Thats what I was wondering, as it sounds like beets and turnips are almost two different seasons, so the question is does one try to plant the turnips earlier or try to mix the beets in with a different plot like a late spring plot of clover, chicory, etc etc. Might have to experiment. Do you think you can plant the beets too early? I remember Ma planting beets in early June with all of the other veggies but dont know if they would be any good by Nov-Dec.

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Go in and get your turips planted early and then come in later with whatever else you want in the plot and and drill right over the already developed turnips. The hearty turnip will be able to take the disruption that the drill will cause and you will get your plot to mature like you want it to

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yes they are two different animals.there is still a lawsuit going on with the rr sugar beets(Monsanto) so its very hard to control the weeds when spring planted
They should be planted in the spring,but I know that pat has had good luck planting his brassicas early, So maybe a blend of brassicas and beets planted late june might work OK. As soon as the rr beets are available again I will be planting them again

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It sounds like Monsanto may end up on the winning side of this I got word the other day that they are not going to have to kill off the seedlings that they were originally ordered to do. That is great news!!

Get to know your local CO-OP The guys at the CO-OP will luv to help you out a share some hunting stories while you are there. We are out in the country all the time and I know that I will stop out for a favor or two for some of the guys that are cool when they come in. Your CO-OP guy can get you fetilizer by the 5-gallon bucket is that is what you need and they can collect or send in your soil sample so you can know exactly what you have to work with. Your local CO-OP guy will probably even get interested enough to stop out to check on your plot and maybe even give you some suggestions during the year just because.

It is impossible to say right now what you will need for fertilizer. Some of the suggestions above are safe ways to go but if you want to get the absolute most out of your plot, GET THE SAMPLE Then see just how tall you can get those catagory 4 beans to grow. 5′, 6′, 7′

I LUV WIPERS

Thanks for the report Roger and WELCOME TO IDO

Nope, feathers

I sure am glad that you left them for us B Man I luv Swanson this time of year

Great fish Ben

The best addvice I can give you is forget about the bass and load up on the wipers. Red Willow has been much more productive as far as LMB go this year. Please keep them is you find them

Sherman has been fickle so I can’t wait to get down to Swanson in 3 weeks

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YOUR WAY OFF BASE BUDDY.

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What am I missing here?

I would say that Calamus would be the best bite out of those two lakes but what about fishing Sutherland or Swanson?

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So we are going to get into a big debate on this site too about shuting down the spawn. Please dont start it here That is why I like this forum because there hasnt been the debating.

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I don’t think that is the purpose of the thread at all.

Have you guys heard the old wise tale that you should only put it up in months that contain an “R”?

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How does a person find wild asparagus? Is it typically in a certain kinda’ area? Shade? Sun? I would have no idea on where to begin looking…RR

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We have a hay meadow that it grows wild in and it is in the road ditches. Keep on checking back because it will shot up real quick and the poachers are quick to spot it

The C.O.’s that I know for the most part are really cool guys and do a good job but they are spread so thin that it is impossible for them to keep up with everything that is going on.

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Snagging and dip-netting is already illegal! Every poacher that does that deserves to be caught and become infected with a fish pox to boot! If you see violations CALL! Nebraska Wildlife Crimestoppers 800-742-7627. Phone numbers for every conservation officer in the state can be found in the 2010 Fishing Guide. There are folks who catch those fish fair and square and more and more of them that release all the females they catch.

I believe that if we close a fishery because of some illegal activity by a few poachers then that is a sad commentary. We do not close the interstate because of a few speeders. We had some poacher that harvested over 150 walleyes from Merritt last year when the fishing was HOT, not during the spawn period, should we have closed that fishery too?

Daryl Bauer
Fisheries Outreach Program Manager
Nebraska Game & Parks Commission
[email protected]
Bauer’s Barbs and Backlashes

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No Merrit should not have been closed but what does it say about the ease of poaching if a camper can sit at a lake for over a month and fish every day without getting checked for over-possesion?(sp)