For what it’s worth. I love my Skeeter that you helped me buy.

Most discouraging thing for me is that almost anything capable of being hayed has been mowed and rolled.

MNdrifter wrote:

Thanks guys for thoughts. I really think I’m going to try an talk wife into it. We are young yet (35&38) but this will hopefully be our last home. That’s why I want one level and wide doors. We both have decent jobs. And the next advancement for me I would be required to move closer to work. So I am thinking why not move now when the getting is good in our neighborhood. Good point Randy. I have some chicken scratch plans on construction paper, I guess the next step I will bring them to a designer at a lumber yard. See what they can come up with. Thanks again guys, anymore thoughts I’m all ears.
MNdrifter.

Ive got a couple 3 bdrm/2 bath plans that work with a SOG home, if you’re interested in looking at them.

While infloor hydronic heat is often the case, it comes at a pretty steep price by the time you integrate two complete systems.(heating in the floor, cooling in the ceiling) One way around this, is to go with a conventional counterflow furnace, with underslab PVC ducting around the perimeter of the house. I had this in my last golf course house, and was very happy. The 2 lb density foam underslab needs to be about 12 inches below bottom of the slab in order to use this system, but you end up with a warm floor throughout the house, as the furnace brings the house up to seasonal temps. The granular fill in the duct space becomes a “heat sink” when its on top of the foam insulation. There are some guidelines you need to follow in regards to specifying your underslab foam. Horizontal/load bearing foam needs to be 2 lb density foam, but can be either extruded, or expanded foam. My preference is extruded.. anything vertical can be 1.5 lb density foam.

I have a online pictorial of our Shallow, Frost Protected Foundation from my cabin in South Dakota. 19 pictures, with explanations. 18 x 30 house slab and 24 by 24 garage slab. 3 days from breaking ground to ready to build on.. if anyone is interested.

Ill be gone for a week to Lake Powell, starting today..

Ive also got 3 acres of short grass/forbs that is doing nicely.

Its alright to be different.

Thanks for any help with the tall grass options..

sktrwx2200 wrote:

The tillage will only be done to the rows of trees to make a good soft seed bed for the seedlings, the seedlings will then be planted and then covered in weed barrier plastic to prevent weeds and grasses from competing with the seedlings. The crp grass will be no til drilled into the oats or rye.

Makes sense. Thanks

TheFamousGrouse wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>91reddog wrote:</div>
Makes absolutely no sense to me to seed oats or rye for weed suppression and then till/disc it up next year, exposing a jabillion new weed seeds. Maybe I’m not understanding exactly what’s happening.

That is the point of a cover crop. Any weed seeds near the surface germinate but are out-competed by the faster-growing, thicker cover crop. The height of the cover crop prevents airborne seeds from reaching the soil and germinating.

Tillage after cover cropping should be the minimum depth required, which considering the next crop, will probably be planted without tilling at all. No-till drills are terrific for planting after a cover crop has been terminating and the fuel and equiment savings will often pay for the drill for the professional user.

Grouse

I understand the cover crop and it’s merit, it’s the tillage that makes no sense to me as it defeats the purpose of the cover crop. If the ground needs worked to level it out,it should be done before the cover crop installation and the final planting drilled in with as little soil disturbance as possible.

Makes absolutely no sense to me to seed oats or rye for weed suppression and then till/disc it up next year, exposing a jabillion new weed seeds. Maybe I’m not understanding exactly what’s happening.

Having been inthe same boat as the original poster. (Pun) iPad a gen 1 IPilot that was stellar and upgraded to a Link in 2012. After fighting with it till now with a terrible spot lock, I bought a used Gen 1 IPilot. Traded them out last trip, but didn’t have any wind to compare,but it just plain acted like it was going to behave, and not be so spastic as the the Link. Spot lock is really the only thing I use in the winter, but in the spring and summer I do like the FTC mode, so therefore, I am keeping both systems and not upgrading to a Gen 3. And,saving some coin..

sand-burr wrote:

Just in case I will mention that there is a small plug in the back of the transducer that needs to be installed.
Did you install this?[/

If it’s a true rooster tail, then the rear of the transducer is tipped down too far in the back. I’m betting it’s the opening where the plug goes that jetting the water up…

Assuming all clamps are tight down below,I’m betting on a leaky fitting. Topping off should spill gas out if the vent on the exterior of the boat and shouldn’t result in raw fuel/fumes in the sump.

Sent you a PM bill…

Mines a 2012 model.FWIW

hnd wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>biggill wrote:</div>
So let me get this straight. Minn Kota won’t fix the old motors and now has significantly decreased the value of our 3 year old POS terrovas?

Minn Kota

no company does this. old customers aren’t entitled to new technology because they are unhappy with old technology. New technology decreases the value of old technology all the time. it literally how its supposed to work.

I certainly understand I’m not entitled to new technology, but what baffles me is how my original IPilot was stellar, and my 2014 IPilot Link is junk on spot lock. They regressed the accuracy in almost everyone’s opinion that has had both. I’ve pretty much held off saying anything negative about this for3 years thinking that there’s no way MinnKota will not make this correct with a simple software update. They have they ability. But now , with the 17 models out, and no update available, I’m being more vocal about the disservice they dealt. Spot Lock was an accurate description of my original IPilot. Area Lock, or Cove Lock more accurately describes my Link. I’ve been thinking about biting the bullet and upgrading hardware,but instead, I bought a original IPilot (no Link) to try before I make the move.

My opinion is that it doesn’t make any difference whether it’s port or starboard, but the side that shoots through the motor side will always be compromised because of the turbulence off the keel.

Interested.. Sent you a PM

Brian Klawitter wrote:

I haven’t used either but looking.

One item that will make a difference in user opinion is if the motor is being used on a lake or river with moving water.

I need to follow this thread closer…

Brian Klawitter wrote:

I haven’t used either but looking.

One item that will make a difference in user opinion is if the motor is being used on a lake or river with moving water.

I need to follow this thread closer…

My usage is in a reservoir situation and if they’re not running water, I’m not fishing.

Doc and hnd .

That is my exact opinion also. My Terrova 101 IPILOT was a great unit and actually spot locked! I tested it next to a bouy several times. I fell for the Link marketing a d upgraded to a Terrova 36v 112 . Big disappointment. I’ve kept waiting for a software upgrade to get me back to my Ipilot tolerances, but it doesn’t look like it’s going to happen. I’m probably going to buy in to the new unit, but I’m not too happy about it. All they need to do is design a software quaalud to calm the stupid thing down.

I’d gladly give up follow the contour to have my old spot lock back. I’ve actually considered finding an old version and selling my Link system.

I’m firmly convinced that they can make these things as smart as they want to, or as dumb as they want to, so I’m very leary of any software update. If there’s not something in it that fixes something that bothers me, or adds something that I want. I’m not putting it in my machines.

Let me know what you find….if you would.

pm sent

I’ve bought a lot of gear over my lifetime, but there are two things that stand out to me as bad investments. First off was a gen 1 aqua view camera. Second is a pair of Costa 580s. I think they cost me 279 at Scheels or something like that. Broke a lens inthe first 6 months and it cost me 179 to have it replaced.

I know im going to be the minority here, but I just wanted to say that not everyone embraces high quality lens. ( and I wear glasses every waking minute, so I’m used to glasses)

Didn’t see it, but if it was in Omaha, it had to be Joe Tess restaurant. Never been there but wanted to two different times on my way to Kansas hunting. Couldn’t get in either time. The joint was packed.

Dutchboy wrote:

I would need to know for a fact somebody could teach me to run the damn thing. Lot of coin for something I wouldn’t know 100% to run all features.

Hopefully the menus are simpler than the Onix. The new Onix software update touts express menu shortcuts so hopefully that is going to make it easier to find simple things . The Solix has the same menu express keys.

IPilot $750. Link $850 to 9. Seems to be the going rate. But with the new gens out now it’s really hard to say.

Onix gets a nice software upgrade hours before the Solix introduction. Mega imaging on the Solix should be awesome,but I’m sticking with my Onix..

Whatever you buy, don’t scrimp. Ive got a marlin 512p bolt slug gun, (12guage). I shoot Winchester Supremes initial and it knocked the guts out of 2 different Nikon scopes, one of them being a dedicated slug scope. A leupold now sits between the rings. I also have a savage220 and I started with a Leupold slug scope . Like you,I don’t care for the cluttered optics but it really don’t make much difference when it only takes one shot.

Same dilemma and my choice is going to be updating the Terrova to a gen.2. My electronic package is good enough for now.

Thanks Cal, Dont think I can make the open house, but Im hoping there will be some pictures posted. Any idea how this platform compares to the W 1850? React keel for sure. Snap in carpet? Upgrades to Trolling motor and electronics? (can it be ordered without them?

T\R

Single axle or double axle trailer?

ETA?

Calvin Svihel wrote:

Helix G2 12SI w/chirp!

Calvin Svihel wrote:

Helix G2 12SI w/chirp!

Works for me, but I’d give serious consideration to a G2 10 SI also.

At the risk of taking this further from Jake’s questions….

Jake. You won’t know your units full potential until you mount the HDSI transducer. I did not like my glassed in transducer and disconnected it. It may have been ok, but at the time I was unhappy with the HDSI mounted safe. Once I got it to run in clear water, I did not need the glassed in.

Mann, what I did was to build some shimming brackets that mounts to the bottom of the step. Then I used a transducer shield and saver to mount the transducer to the shimming blocks. It’s fully adjustable, and works very well. I’ve got twin transducers for the 1198 and a single for the Onix.