Yes

Sold pending payment

Sorry, they are gone.

SOLD

Buyer never responded. Still for sale.

Draw weight is 60#, adjustable down to 50 or up to 70.

Ammo sold already. Thanks

Correct, standard 50 round boxes plus a partial box with 20 rounds left after I shot one magazine in my PMR30. The PMR30 is very finicky with ammo types.

I have been up to the BWCA many times. I would definitely get a gravity filter. If it’s hot and/or you’re thirsty from a long paddle you might each drink two or more 32oz Nalgene bottles of water a day. I used the Steri Pen the first year. Yes, it works (didn’t get the squirts), but it’s a pain in the butt for two people to rely on for the entire trip – great for back-up though as mentioned above. You’re going to spend a lot of time planning, and probably a lot of money to get outfitted and get up there. Don’t skimp on one of the most important aspects of a safe, comfortable trip – Clean, cool, safe water!

I can’t imagine boiling water on a warm day and then waiting for it to “cool”.

FYI – I have an MSR gravity filter. I have heard nothing but bad reports on the Katadyn. Google it!

Hope you have a great trip!

Not sure what you are referring to, but the link I gave is for the Flex Coat REVERSE pilot bits. It is a long shaft, modified spade bit. You slide your grip onto the shaft and then pull the bit through. Watch the video. =) Reverse pilot bits in use starting at about 1:40.

Here’s a tip: Unless you are reaming cork out for a very small blank, it really pays to drill out the cork before you ream the final fit. I have a few reverse pilot bits. Some I bought, some I made. It will save you a ton of time (and dust) if you build many rods!!!

https://flexcoat.com/shop/reel-seat-arbors/reverse-pilot-bits

Don’t use the Abrasive Cutting Grit granules that are glued to a reamer. The sharp bits can break off in your cork handle and then scratch the crap out of your blank when you slide it on.

Much better to use the rolls of reamer abrasive. I have used 1″ belt sander belts for a big reamer for musky rods. 36 and 60 grit will get it done. Anything finer is too slow.

You can usually find cheap rods at garage sales, Good Will and Salvation Army stores.

Like the Flex Coat video, it’s really slick to have a long reamer on your drill. It really helps to build a reamer that has about the same taper and diameter as the rods you build. Most commercial reamers have too much taper.

Contact cement is the way to go. Epoxy lets go when it warms up during a heavy reaming session.

Message sent

Hi folks! I enjoy reading all these threads about rods. I have no stake in this at all, but I wanted to give you a little (okay, long) insight into the world of rod building.

I have handled some TUC rods but never fished them. $100 seems like a lot for an ice rod to most of us, so with that in mind…

I paid $4 for a small bottle of water at the theater in Rogers. For water! Last weekend I was craving a mocha so I got one. Almost $6! For coffee! And $3.95 for a little plastic container of maggots! =)

But seriously, here’s what you may not know. The wholesale markup on fishing rod components is terrible. No one is getting rich there. And the builders are paying for shipping, and MN state tax on those parts.

One little known fact is that our Federal Government has decreed that if you buy a bag of guides, some cork, and some blanks, and assemble that into a rod that you will sell – you are now a manufacturer. You are required to have a Federal Employer Identification Number (FEIN, or the Federal Tax Identification Number). And you have to collect the FET (Federal Excise Tax) on Sport Fishing Equipment for every rod sold. Then you need to file a quarterly Internal Revenue Form #720 to report and pay the tax. And they are watching you! I made an error on some submissions after THEY changed the process and didn’t tell me. I received a very threatening letter stating that they were going to make my life miserable if I didn’t get my act together. I had to take a day of vacation so I could stay home, call the Feds, and be ON HOLD for hours to get it straightened out. They would not let my wife (book keeper) talk, it had to be me because the business was in my name.

When you get done building and selling a rod you have enough profit to go get a mocha and a tub of maggots, which is why I shut my rod building business down after 8 years. =)

From ION:

WHAT IF I LEAVE MY BATTERY ON THE CHARGER?
Leaving the battery on the charger will not harm the battery because the charger is programmed to shut off after the battery reaches a full charge. It is best to unplug the charger and remove the battery after a full charge has been reached, signaled by the solid green light on the charger. (This is because the charger’s electronics inside will continue to use power when plugged in.)

CAN I PUT A PARTIALLY DISCHARGED BATTERY ON THE CHARGER?
Yes. There is no reduction in battery pack performance or life due to recharging it at any point in the charge or discharge cycle. Best practice would be to recharge the battery after each trip on the ice.

I love split grips on my open water rods. I just don’t get it on an ice rod. I played around with it in the shop last night and I still don’t understand why you’d want that. For starters, having an opening with a flat grip on either side of it is not comfortable to me. I mocked up several handles and finally came to the conclusion that both need to be sharply tapered for it to feel good for me.

Finally, I am not convinced that the portion of your hand between the thumb and finger is all that sensitive. I played around quite a bit last night – tapping the rod tip on various hard surfaces to see if I could feel it where the blank touched the “webbing” between my thumb and finger. I’m speaking for me now, but a finger tip on the blank gave me much more feedback.

My preferred handle looks like this:

Attachments:

1. 

   My-Handle.jpg
   

Ryan Scholl wrote:

masking tape and cutoff wheel on my dremel seems to work the best. I’ve had them splinter when using a saw.

True. I have read of guys using a triangle file and deeply scoring the blank, and then snapping it off.

Always use pepper when you cook those! =)

Mat Peirce wrote:

wrap masking tape around the blank, then cut with hacksaw or dremel

Basskhang, Janns Netcraft, Sportsmens Direct, etc sell handle kits

Yup! I use a Dremel, but I work in front of a 20″ box fan that has a furnace filter taped on. I don’t want to breath carbon fiber dust.

Most ice blanks have a section in the butt end that has little or no taper. You can cut several inches off and not get into the taper. You can also trim the tip if you need to. Trimming from the tip will make the rod a bit slower, and increase the fishable lure weight a bit.

Aaron Drier wrote:

Bass Khang walleye carbon 36″ – $7, Sportsman Direct extreme taper carbon lengths 32″-48″ $13-18, Sportsmen Direct IHS carbon 32″ “heavy” $16

DH, Thorne, Mudhole, Bass Khang, SD all have good choices. TUCR doesn’t sell blanks yet, but I bet they could sell a lot if they ever did. Of those, I’ve only handled MHX and Bass Khang carbon fiber blanks. Best bang for the buck would be the Bass Khang. I have the Perch Carbon and the Panfish Carbon. The Walleye Carbon seems to be out of stock often. They are all 36″ blanks, so just cut to suit.

gimp wrote:

be careful with the cable ties, they can cut you at the cut off end. Wal-mart uses them to keep the reels on the combos.

Yes, combos are sold that way by many stores to prevent theft and reel swaps. You’re supposed to remove the cable ties and attach the reel yourself with tape or bands. =)

White Ranger wrote:

Gone Fishing wrote:
…Now I use equine ankle wrap cut into strips the long way so it stretches (wrap will not stretch if cut the short way). Wrap onto rod as if it were tape. The beauty to this stuff is that it only sticks to itself, it will not pull out pit paste when removed and is breathable(will not hold water beneath the wrap).

I have heard of guys using this stuff. I picked up a roll and had it sitting around all year and I finally tried it. I liked it so much I tore the tape off of several other rods and I ordered a 12 pack of 2″ in assorted colors from that “A” place. I cut rolls .8″ wide from the 2″ roll by putting it on my lathe and using an Z-Acto knife. Now I can color code my handles to match my rod wraps. This will allow me to catch many more fish. =)

It’s also available in 1″ width if you don’t want to cut it. It goes by various names – sports wrap, vet wrap, cohesive wrap, etc.

Attachments:

1. 

   81xbzlLSWcL._SX522_-1.jpg
   

I have the 6″ with the Milwaukee (my first powered auger). Probably only drilled 30 or 35 holes so far. I love it! Once I figured out that I need to kick the snow away before drilling, and when I lay the auger down, I have had no problems at all. It cuts a lot faster than a hand auger and it is very lightweight, which is nice for exploring and hole hopping.

Update: I forgot to mention that I tried reverse yesterday morning to flush the slush and never had to use my new Little Dipper XLH Ice Scoop. I was worried about the chuck loosening, so I kept checking it every few holes but it was tight. It took a bit of effort to get the K-Drill off when I got home.

Gone Fishing wrote:

Casteration rings aka Cold Snap rings will destroy your cork. If you use them make sure to remove at the end of every season or your handle will feel the pain. There are many great options out there other than tape or casteration rings. When I used casteration rings, I made a tool out of a caulking tip for a bulk gun and than used a piece of PVC pipe to slide over the butt for split grips. Now I use equine ankle wrap cut into strips the long way so it stretches (wrap will not stretch if cut the short way). Wrap onto rod as if it were tape. The beauty to this stuff is that it only sticks to itself, it will not pull out pit paste when removed and is breathable(will not hold water beneath the wrap). See pictures below.

I have heard of guys using this stuff. I picked up a roll and had it sitting around all year and I finally tried it. I liked it so much I tore the tape off of several other rods and I ordered a 12 pack of 2″ in assorted colors from that “A” place. I cut rolls .8″ wide from the 2″ roll by putting it on my lathe and using an Z-Acto knife. Now I can color code my handles to match my rod wraps. This will allow me to catch many more fish. =)

It’s also available in 1″ width if you don’t want to cut it. It goes by various names – sports wrap, vet wrap, cohesive wrap, etc.

Attachments:

1. 

   81xbzlLSWcL._SX522_.jpg
   

https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=MIC%20drop

Jon Jordan wrote:

Is “mic drop” some gangster slang I have never heard before? Serious question. Not even in the urban slang dictionary…. yet.

-J.

Yes, it is in the Urban Dictionary. As a sound tech in another life I just shudder whenever I see it. Not good for a condensor mic at all.

Bassn Dan has a good point. A break just above the handle is the easiest to repair and will cause very little (if any) effect on the action of the rod. If the damaged area is mostly intact it is not a hard repair for an experienced rod builder.