Trailer Lights?

Just got a new to me Lund and am needing to re-do the trailer lights.

Any suggestions on brands to buy or any helpful tips?

I redid one of my old boat trailers using optronics LED lights from rigid hitch. Never had any issues with them.

if this helps:
wiring;
white,ground.
yellow,left turn signal.
green,right turn signal.
brown,tail lights.
blue, brake if electric.
purple,back up lights,brake release solenoid

Thank you Hawkeye; that does help.

Use waterproof LED’s. You won’t regret it.

IF you have the rv plug rather than just the 4 pin flat, add back up lights.
Also, make sure you up the size of ground wire and have good connections. Don’t use the crap splice blades. Either solider or use the all weather gel filled splices

The first manufacturer to come up with blue tooth wireless trailer lights will have more money than Steve Jobs and Bill Gates combined. Seems I’m always messing with trailer light wiring and all my stuff is fairly new. It’s simply just the weak link like wiper blades and washer spray nozzles.

Take your time and do the best install you can and be prepared to work on it in a year or two.

mxskeeter wrote:

Use waterproof LED’s. You won’t regret it.

If you have some marine goop or similar on-hand, I’ve found I can make better quality waterproof trailer lights out of the cheapest lighting options than the expensive “submersible” lights on the shelf.

Spend the money on good wiring, waterproof heat shrink connections, and make sure your ground is the best connection possible.

if you are replacing the wiring, put the new wire harness in split tubing before pulling it thru, added protection so the insulation doesnt wear thru from rubbing on the frame over time

I’ve used Blazer light kits for the last 5 complete rebuilds I”ve done on my trailer and for others. Not a single issue. Others could be just as good, but at this point I’m not inclined to mess with success.

Most of the issues with lights come down to 3 causes:

1. Bad ground.
2. Bad splices or connections.
3. Wire damage/shorts from passing wire unprotected through holes in the trailer frame.

For splices, I’ve found the heat shrink butt splice connectors to be fast, reliable, and durable. I know soldering each connection is also good, but I’m not willing to take that much time.

Buy a pack of rubber grommets and use then everywhere a wire passes through a hole in the trailer. Also, protect any wire that comes out into daylight with flexible loom to protect it from road damage and UV light.

One thing NEVER to use is those pinch-on “quick connectors” that come with some light kits. Throw those POS things AWAY. Pure junk. They introduce resistance and they will never, never last on a trailer application.

Grouse

Check out this post I made about my lights awhile back.

Trailer Wiring and Tires

Just installed LED’s on a fellow IDO’er Ron’s Boat yesterday and cleaned up some wiring. Took about 5 hours and $100 in parts. As you can see looks like it has been repaired a couple times before. I stripped everything down and started fresh.

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Do not use the cheap wire that comes in the kits, buy an outdoor extension cord and use it. Like stated, use solder and shrink tubing. Do it once right.

big_g wrote:

Do not use the cheap wire that comes in the kits, buy an outdoor extension cord and use it. Like stated, use solder and shrink tubing. Do it once right.

G is spot on about the wire. Most wire jackets will permeate water/moisture through the jacket over time. I see a lot of guys will add the tubing over their wires in an attemp to protect the wires. In reality, that slotted tubing will hold water and not allow the wire jackets to dry