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Viewing 30 posts - 1 through 30 (of 855 total)
  • ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #2042036

    How are folks storing these when not in use? I have the brew city mount and Am looking to have mine mounted horizontally when driving but struggling to find the correct mounting option. Suggestions???

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #2035274

    Check with Ted Meriden on this site. He just sold his he can probably fill you in.

    Thanks Dutch, I had an ’06 I purchased in ’09 and repowered with a new 150. Sold last fall and it was an amazing boat.

    Joe is the absolute authority here in having 4 different models and his advice of finding a good used one and repower and enjoy for many good years is spot on in my opinion.

    Tough market to boat shop right now with demand at what feels like an all time high and prices are reflecting it – wishing you the best of luck!

    -ted

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #2033483

    Can’t seem to edit the ad, but spoke w the seller and here is the update:

    Aluminum Flow dock system.
    Easy to reconfigure to meet your needs.
    Set up for 4’ to 6’ water depth.
    4’ x 16’ ramp. 1,600.00
    4’ x 16’ dock section 1975.00
    8’ x 16’ dock/ swim platform 4,100.00
    All screw adjustable legs
    5 adjustable Bumpers
    First 7,650.00 takes all

    Additional images / information available via David at 612.840.3283 or [email protected]

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #2027848

    I would have no problem doing that, except the door on the compartment isn’t big enough. Had to pull one of my group 29 deep cycles from the front to start the main motor. It wasn’t even close to fitting through the compartment opening.

    Red Eye –

    This is the exact reason I carry jumper cables in my boat so it’s not a big deal if (typically when) this happens. I bought 2 cheaper sets and combined them together to accommodate the length needed to reach from trolling motor batteries in the front to the starting battery in the back.

    Another option is to have a second battery in battery case mounted to your floor outside the compartment (out of the way if possible) and run two batteries in parallel. Good luck with your new battery!

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #2023894

    [/quote]

    Depends on many factors. Do you find yourself running out of juice with your current setup? Do you always have access to electricicy on multiple day trips? Do you have battery trays that will secure a bigger battery? I run size 29 batteries and never run out of juice on a 36v trolling motor (pushing a 19′ glass boat) I wouldn’t hesitate to drop down to 27’s if they were significantly cheaper or if my battery trays didn’t fit a bigger battery. Think I paid roughly $100/ battery and didn’t see much savings going with a smaller size 27. Everyone always shouts to get the biggest trolling motor and the biggest batteries you can…there is a limit lol…I find my 36v ulterra to be overkill 99% of the time.
    [/quote]

    Completely agree, I have always used group 29’s with trolling motor setups. Consider if you use your trolling motor for the majority of the positioning portion of your fishing, then having the most power and reserve in your batteries is key to your success each outing.

    Good luck with your investment!

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #2022588

    Bought during black Friday last November from Reeds and planned to use it for a livescope setup. I am staying with Lowrance technology and passing the savings along for the next person.

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #2017033

    I had a completely different experience with my 2010 150 Etec tiller – great motor for trolling, put over 900 hours on that engine and was thoroughly impressed with it.

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #2014793

    I have always used Kentco Signs in Maple Grove for the last 20 years

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #2006635

    Thank you for all the replies, gives me a few options to look into over the weekend

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #2006374

    I also think you will see a significant drop in ride quality, especially with a wider boat. Will also be more challenging to backtroll precisely and follow contours in a wider tin tiller.

    Suggestion – look for an older glass tiller (18.5-20′) and repower w/ a newer motor and electronics… can stretch your money a bit. Something along these lines: https://warriorboatsinc.com/classifieds/advert/1998-warrior-v1890-eagle-bt/

    -or-

    Something like this with a little TLC will look like new and you wiill spend significantly less than half of a new model: https://warriorboatsinc.com/classifieds/advert/2014-v2090-btt/

    good luck and let us know what decision you make!

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #1992622

    Price reduced to $13,300

    Snow / Ice season will be here soon and this would make a great holiday gift… wink

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #1985832

    It never ends…boat dealer said the Alumacraft cover would need to be modified because of the Ultrex cable. Then he said the modification might not be possible. I told him he better put his thinking cap on because the right trolling motor is more important than the cover.

    Suggestion is to scrap the factory cover – just remove it from your deal if at all possible and have a custom cover made to fit your boat like a glove. I believe you will be much happier. Had my previous cover modified 3x over twelve years as I changed trolling motors and just this fall deleted the cover from the purchase of a rig and once my trolling motor is mounted (received whistling ) I am off to the custom cover shop to have one built.

    If you already own the cover, take it to a custom shop to get their opinion to confirm what your dealer is saying. Yes the motor is incredibly important and the cover should work with the choice of motor that you make.

    Good luck!

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #1984716

    Have you looked at the ultrex? 100% on the bow would lead me to the best foot peddle out there with mega imaging in the sonar head(ulterra I think has mega as well).

    Second vote for the Ultrex unless you need a 72″ shaft. Best of both worlds, easy deploy and rock solid mount and very fast foot pedal response.

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #1982938

    Congrats on the new boat Ted. What will you be running for a motor? I assume you got your Ranger sold?

    Hi Dutchboy – Boat has a Merc 225 pro xs, have been hearing really good things about that motor from both a fuel economy and top end so I’m excited to put some hours on it next spring.

    No serious takers on the Ranger so it went into storage yesterday to reconfigure the garage in preparation for an early spring electronics rigging (I do my own) on the 2090. Late season discount will be over and price will go up in the spring to align with the demand.

    Anyone with images of transducer locations to share??

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #1982934

    Thanks Jon, I had a the metal bracket on the structure scan transducer from my HDS9 Carbon that was metal and never had an issue but great link and liked the support arms idea also.

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #1979749

    TTT

    Fall discount extended for a couple weeks, price will go up in the spring…

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #1976221

    Updated images from Monday 28 Sept

    Attachments:
    1. Sept-2020-Port.jpg

    2. Sept-2020-Bow-Deck.jpg

    3. Sept-2020-Transom.jpg

    4. Sept-2020-Starboard.jpg

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #1974585

    Congrats, many years of fun ahead!

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #1925813

    I have an HDS 9 Gen 3 new in the box that I am looking to move – send me a PM.

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #1779293

    Upgraded to a pair of carbon 9’s and stepped back to 2 units 8n the boat vs 3. Like to keep somewhat current…

    ted-merdan
    Posts: 1036
    #1778510

    add structure scan transducer for $125!

Viewing 30 posts - 1 through 30 (of 855 total)