Broadhead Tuning

So earlier this spring I treated my bow to a new string and cables, as well as a new Schaffer opposition rest. Bow has been shooting great. I had to time it a couple times due to the string stretching but haven’t had an issue for a couple months. Now I’m working on broadhead tuning. My hope is to hunt with Muzzy 3 blade 100 gr broadheads. Last night I did some quick tuning in the yard and was able to bring the broadhead group together with the field points. It seems like my nocking point is now really high. I’m heading to the range after work to extend my range broadhead tuning out to 30 yds or so. Can the nocking point be too high? I haven’t put the bow square on it, it just looks really high.

Until now bow was tuned perfect on paper and shooting field points fine. I moved the rest down about 1/4″ to bring the groups together. I have Rage 2 blades as well but I would prefer to shoot the fixed blades. Anyone have any advice? Do I worry to much?

Bow Info:

Diamond Infinite Edge Dual Cam
55 lb draw weight
28 1/4″ draw length
Cabelas Stalker Extreme 55/70 arrows

Any info is appreciated.

IMO muzzy’s can be a bear to tune. I gave up and went to slick tricks and expandables and never looked back. The shorter the broad head the easier it will be to tune. I have yet to have to tweak my setup at all since I switched. And I’m shooting them out to 60 yards no problem. I also went to a little heavier arrow and that seemed to help as well.

Sorry I can’t be of more help but I was along the same lines, shooting a Diamond bow with Muzzy broadheads I was having a hard time tuning them in. I switched to the Grizztrick made by Slick Trick and got those tuned in with limited changes to my setup. They are a smaller head so not sure if that made the difference but I haven’t had to make any adjustments since switching over.

Interesting…I have been able to get the Muzzys to group pretty good before. I guess I’ll give it a go at the range and see how it comes out.

Some setups will shoot any head and some can be picky. I’ve just learned that the shorter ferrule fixed blade heads shoot much more consistent than the longer heads such as the muzzys and NAP thunderheads. The later being made of aluminum and the shorter ferrule heads being solid steel.

I actually bought a set of QAD Exodus 100gr, and they flew all over the place. After getting frustrated I went back to NAP, but instead of the classic Thunderheads I was shooting for the last few years I bought the Razors. They seem to hit dead on where my field tips do with zero tuning. I have only shot 20 yards so far, but I will be stretching that out to 50 hopefully over the weekend.

This is interesting. So I went out and shot yesterday and have the Muzzys grouping with my field points out to 40 yds. Plenty good for me hunting whitetail. The funny thing is there is no way the bow shoots good through paper now with the changes I made, however my field point groups seem tighter now too. Guess I’ll keep shooting and see how it does. I wonder if the differences have more to do with spine and tip weight than aerodynamics. Now that I think about it I should throw the broadheads and the field points on the scale and see how they compare.

My brother gives me crap and says I should just go to a shop and get my problems solved rather than stressing over it, but where is the fun in that.

Just an update. I did get the Muzzy blades to shoot decent with field points. Very once and a while I would get a stray flier though. Decided to try the Muzzy Trocar 100 fix blades. These things fly really good and look to be just as tough as the regular Muzzy blades. So far I haven’t had a problem with them. Can’t wait for bow season to open!

I used to have a sand pit I could shoot at and left my fixed blade broadheads right on the arrows and popped them into the sand. When deer season came around I put new blades in and went hunting. I never cared for, and still don’t, those mechanical heads.

I am actually looking at a 62″ take down PSE at 50 pounds/28″. I think it drew about 59 at my 30 1/2″. For next year. I’ve been away from bows for about 8 years and sold the compounds I had. Now I’m kind of missing the fall hunting with a bow and will go low tech should I buy the take down. Have to wait and see.

See if you can find a sand pit that will let you shoot into the sand piles. That white sugar sand is super as a backstop.

For many years, this guy used to specialize in broadhead tournaments all over WI before I did my time as an industry sales rep. Once the expandable heads increased in popularity, these BH competitions in WI all but died. Events that would draw 800+ shooters in the Men’s Bowhunter Release division have now dropped to under 300 participants. Other events that would regularly have 80-125 in that division have been completely defunct for 10-15 years. Pretty sad, but that is how things have changed.

There is really no trick getting fixed blade heads to fly and fly well. Paper-tuning the broadheads is advised and having a very keen eye watching over your shoulder as you test at distance helps a lot as well.

The primary concern is having enough fletching force to overcome the steering effect of the blades up front. Well-vented blades help and having a true helical fletch on the vanes/feathers helps even more. I always used feathers because they have a natural cast to them and increased spin. Usually a 4″ helical with shield-cut feathers would spin any of the more popular heads of the day like 3-blade Rocky Mtn, 125 Thunderheads and similar.

Was never really bent about field points of the same weight impacting at the same exact point, but technically they should if you have good control on the back end. The primary considerations were: Do they fly perfectly straight and do they group at distance (a far greater distance than I would ever shoot in a tourney)? Testing back to 50yds and even a bit further will show you a lot about fixed broadhead flight. Even our WBH Necedah Shoot never went beyond like 33yds, so if they grouped and flew well at 50yds….

One other thing that we paid strict attention to was head alignment. This could be checked by rotating the arrow on a set of bearings or a straightener. The whole idea was to check if the tip of the broadhead was out of center as you slowly rotated the shaft. Blade alignment has no bearing on accuracy or grouping ability at all, but the alignment of that broadhead ferrule most certainly does.