You really should have a professional take a look. There is alot to take into consideration when it comes to sizing a pump for a sprinkler system.

Personally, I am a fan of Myers or Munro pumps, dependable and easily serviceable. Spendy but worth it. Brass impellers, multiple sizes.

I also build sprinkler pumps using 4″ submersible well pumps. The benefit is cost and ease of operation. No priming recquired. No risk of losing prime and burning up the pump. Smaller hp submersible will outperform higher hp centrifugal pump.

Most pump systems are run off of a pump start relay that is connected to the sprinkler controller. You will need live 220V to the lake.

Have you tried calibrating the touch screens? There is a thorough video on youtube directly related to the TI2

Old man has used Racine Tax Accounting forever. Osceola, WI up by Frontier Ag.

Oconto ramp is ice free as of this morning. Open water at the end of the breakwater.

Keep an eye on the wind forecast. An east wind could f@#$ up the whole works.

1/2″ X 1″ strips.

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munchy wrote:

I believe you have to turn off Sonar in one of the setup screens. Don’t have one handy to test unfortunately.

Same screen where you adjust the brightness. Push the power button.

Beaver Dam for sure! Silky smooth spool even when cold. Built tough.

Do not now if there is frost on the lawn.

Seems preventative to me. No shortage of panfish that I have witnessed. The walleyes I cleaned this fall did seem to prefer YOY sunfish/crappies based on their stomach contents.

I put Duratracs on my F150 last winter and they did great in snow! Not very good on ice.

This year, the siping is almost gone and they are horrible. 35k on them. I’m sure they will handle deep snow great, but the slop we had recently had the truck all sorts of squirrely.

lindyrig79 wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>gixxer01 wrote:</div>

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>lindyrig79 wrote:</div>
Thanks Super Dave. Did some more searching and figured out they were called jar-top valves. Got the valve open and everything looks fine.

During the process I found that I can hear water running, in the ground, between the valve box and zone 8. This leads me to believe there is a leak in the ground…

If you can hear water flowing underground away from the valve…you have a kink/constriction.

Looks like you may be right Gixxer. There are a couple big oaks near that area… maybe some roots are the problem. Or maybe the guys we hired to blow the lines last fall left some water in that zone and a pipe burst?

Time to dig up that area I guess.

You’d know if you had a leak!

Dig as gingerly as possible until you visibly see the pipe and the direction it is traveling. Then get crazy with an axe or sawzall.

Piece of advice…the sound generally emits after the kink. So dig as close to the sound as you can and towards the valve. Don’t bury anything until you are sure you’ve fixed all kinks. It’s not uncommon for their to be multiple constrictions in a short area.

You’ll need couplers, clamps, and a section of pipe. Bypass the tree roots as best as possible to insure a lasting repair.

lindyrig79 wrote:

Thanks Super Dave. Did some more searching and figured out they were called jar-top valves. Got the valve open and everything looks fine.

During the process I found that I can hear water running, in the ground, between the valve box and zone 8. This leads me to believe there is a leak in the ground…

If you can hear water flowing underground away from the valve…you have a kink/constriction.

If you are saying you have low pressure on zone 8 and your pump is cycling between the cut in of 50psi and the cutout of 80psi, then you have a constriction in the pipe after the valve. Most common being a tree root.

It is possible that it is a valve issue, but not likely the selonoid. If the zone turns on at all feom the controller, then rule out the selenoid.

It could however be a blockage in the selenoid ports of the valve. Small passages that feed water to and from the selenoid.

Again, this is all based on the heads of zone 8 having low pressure.

Put it down before the dandelions bloom. Crabgrass germinates when the lilacs bloom.

Your wife has reservations about Family and support. Two very big things. In my opinion, you don’t do anything but dream until she is 100% onboard. These types of things are what can develop into resentments!

buschman wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>tangler wrote:</div>
Team Acme is a joke in terms of strategy. I’m sure Haataja figured he could lock up the brownie point in the final period, all he has to do now is match his own world record!

I sure hope they do another and keep AP out of the mix next time… I don’t like to be negative but he seems to bring bad vibes to that boat. I don’t know the guy or if he is a good fisherman but he sure did not bring much game to the table if you ask me.. You need two good sticks and minds to compete with these guys. Eric is on his own there! Hope they finish well anyways. Time will tell.

He’s definitely out of his element in Eric’s world. It’s never easy fishing someone else’s home waters.

Buddy uses one all the time. He bought the Lowrance ice bundle for a 5″ display and uses that. Had to alter the gimbal bracket to get it to fit, though. Its a tight fit but works well. Should be a blue transducer end.

biggill wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>eelpoutguy wrote:</div>
95K on the originals?
I think you answered your own question.

I know, right? The variable is now I’m doing the work.

I was almost going to write: “I’m putting OEM brakes on my truck, change my mind.” The reality is this is really what I’m thinking.

Clean and re-grease the slides, torque everything to spec and you should be good.

Are you redoing the parking brakes also?

Oreillys turned my rotors for $14 a piece. Turned out great!

Do you tow alot? Semi-metallic may be the way to go. OEM is probably ceramic. My 2013 F150 had semi metallic when I bought it (ceramic oem) and they stop on a dime, however, they seem to aggressive for the traction control system.

I bought the truck used from a Ford dealer with new brakes all around. Not sure if OEM or not. Nothing is stamped FoMoCo. They have lasted well with virtually no dust, but the rear rotors warped something awful. Chocked it up to me not torquing lugs properly or dunking them in the lake after a long haul.

I can tell you to stay away from the NAPA brake parts. Our service vans run them and they warp in no time.

bigcrappie wrote:

Where at?

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>gixxer01 wrote:</div>
Wife crapped her pants when I said I wanted motor oil for christmas. $8 for 5qt full synthetic…now that’s a savings! Told her to buy as many as she’s willing to carry.

Fleet Farm.

Valvoline is $8. Mobil 1 is $14

Wife crapped her pants when I said I wanted motor oil for christmas. $8 for 5qt full synthetic…now that’s a savings! Told her to buy as many as she’s willing to carry.

Don’t be fooled by the 20V vs. 18V either. Both the Dewalt and M18 are 20V static battery packs. Both are also 18V under load.

If Milwaukee, go with the M18 or M12 Fuel Line (brushless motors). Much better performance than standard M18.

Both Milwaukee and Rigid are manufactured by the same company. Personally, no experience with Rigid, I’m sure it’s a great tool, however, Milwaukee has a much more extensive tool lineup. Even with light commercial use, I have yet to replace a Milwaukee tool or battery.

That Rigid lifetime warranty does sound appealing though.

Makita would be another to highly consider.

Rid-O-Rust stain remover. Works wonders on removing rust stains from irrigation overspray. Says it works on grout too.

You can use Liquid Chelated Iron in the summer to green up the lawn without promoting growth. Or just dial back on the milorganite in the summer months.

Maybe I missed it, but I see no mention of sewer. If on a septic you will need to find out if it’s sized properly for more beds/baths.

You want EPDM Brake Reservoir hose. Call some auto parts stores.

The reverse bypass? Reverse lights activate the selonoid allowing fluid to bypass back to the reservoir?

I would think rubber brake line would work fine. Seeing as how it would be the low pressure side.

They used zipties to seal the connections, so it’s definitely not high pressure. Not sure if rubber transmission line is rated for use with brake fluid, but it is readily available at auto parts stores in multiple sizes. Would work fine in a pinch.

Use a multimeter to check the wiring of the system first. Also test that the controller is supplying 24V to all zones. Easy tests that can be done without turning on the water.

Fyi…looks to have the compressor fitting already installed on the #2 Test cock.

Best to go through everything before you need it. The ground is plenty warm to keep the heads from freezing. A blanket over the backflow in sub freezing weather will be sufficient.

We’ve been starting up systems for the last 3 weeks. It will take several hours of sub 30* temps to do any damage. Not saying it’s not possible, but I think the metro has cleared that hurdle.

Agree with above on hiring a pro for the first year. There are some tips and tricks that a technician can pass on if you ask them.

FIL likes his. The <50″ was his selling point also. Getting them into reverse seemed cumbersome to me.