Butcher Block Counter – How to Finish?

First time working with this type of countertop. Im hearing mixed recommendations for how to finish it. Some say to use an oil finish and other say to use a polyurethane.

It will not be used as a food prep counter so no need to worry about that. Those that say to use a poly sealer say that using oil takes a lot more oil and there will be an oil smell for a long time.

The finish I am looking for is a stain or matte type, not a high gloss.

Any reconditions?

The counter top is already sanded pretty smooth and doesnt need any work to it other than sealing/protecting it

Either is fine to finish. I would use a water base poly. If it were to be used for food prep just oil applied weekly is what we would tell customers.

I have done a couple and I did poly on both and have been really happy with them. No maintinance and easy cleaning.

Thank you both for the info

Out of curiosity, are the end grains pointing up or horizontal?

I’m in the middle of installing 62 lineal feet of butcherblock for a customer’s basement bar and entertainment center. Going to use a water-based poly. Just be sure to seal the bottom and all sides before you install it as well.

jwellsy wrote:

Out of curiosity, are the end grains pointing up or horizontal?

Pointing up –
Then it’s a true cutting board.

We’ve had butcher counter tops for 2 years but used as a food prep surface. Oiled weekly for first month, now do it once a month (mineral oil). It leaves a matte finish once excess is wiped up. If they weren’t used for food prep, I’d prefer to finish with a poly or other protectant..

If it’s not functioning as a food surface than finish to whatever looks good.

Is it maple?

To be honest, I am not sure what type of wood it is, I dont think the packaging called out anything specific

50/50 food grade mineral and bees wax.
Melted together in a crock pot.
Add essential oils to provide any sent.

What’s the real thick finish they put on bar tops that looks like you could put coins under it and it would still be level?

Epoxy

You said what the counter use is “not” for, but you didn’t say what it’s use is for?

You didn’t say what type of wood it is? Maple, hard maple, walnut, mix??

I do a lot of custom hard maple and walnut cutting boards. Whether they’re decorative center pieces or cutting boards I use Howard Butcher Block Conditioner (no lasting smell) – Lowes $10 – food grade – enough to do a lot of boards.

If you’re looking for the classic darkened satin oil surface that holds up very well, here’s how:

1. Size edges to a radius for their use. Table top 1/4″ min (I use a router) – cutting board and decorative 1/16 to 1/8″ (I use sand paper.) Top and bottom. Don’t do it … and the first splinter will tell you why you should have.

2. Sand to a 220 grit. Start with 120 grit. Gives a slightly loose grain for the oil to soak in.

3. Preheat the oil. Fill hot water in the sink and set it in, squeeze occasionally till you see it’s half way melted. Do not microwave it! Plastic bottle will shrink and it will never stand up again. Been there …. done that.

4. Put down a cloth if doing it on a bench. Preheat the wood surface with a hair dryer. Don’t burn it. Back and forth moves. It doesn’t need to be exact but around 100 to 120 degrees.

5. Squirt a healthy amount on the warm area and quickly circle rub it in with your fingers while slowly fanning the dryer over the area. You want a very thin even wet coat. If it’s a long top don’t create a stop point on the first pass – keep moving. If you’re not doing the table bottom do the ends/edges as you go.

6. If doing the bottom: Try to stay even on the top radius edge with the oil line. Any runs down the edges need to be kept wiped with a dry rag.

7. Go back to the start and circle rub the oil while fanning the dryer over the area. Too dry – add a little oil. You want to see ‘almost’ dry spots appear as you move down the top. Then go back and repeat without the dryer. Then lightly wipe it even with your wet cleanup cloth.

If doing the bottom: Flip and repeat, including edges this time, and when done flip it to make sure the top doesn’t have runs. Let it set for at least 4 hours on props. Longer is better.

Now repeat that 2 more times using a cloth (not fingers) and then hand buff to a dull shine. Those 2 coats can be thinner. The more you rub on it the better the finish. I get the kids in involved. Mom loves the oily little hands.

Based on use, every 6 months it needs one quick coat. If you want a deeper oil protection, season it before the conditioner with Howard Cutting Board Oil.

Pro’s: Easy repairs. Damage to Hard finishes are difficult to repair.
Natural satin appearance.
Con’s: Leave a drink with condensation on it overnight and you might be rubbing out a ring. Depends on when the last coat was applied.

Dan Dicicco wrote:

You said what the counter use is “not” for, but you didn’t say what it’s use is for?

You didn’t say what type of wood it is? Maple, hard maple, walnut, mix??

I do a lot of custom hard maple and walnut cutting boards. Whether they’re decorative center pieces or cutting boards I use Howard Butcher Block Conditioner (no lasting smell) – Lowes $10 – food grade – enough to do a lot of boards.

If you’re looking for the classic darkened satin oil surface that holds up very well, here’s how:

1. Size edges to a radius for their use. Table top 1/4″ min (I use a router) – cutting board and decorative 1/16 to 1/8″ (I use sand paper.) Top and bottom. Don’t do it … and the first splinter will tell you why you should have.

2. Sand to a 220 grit. Start with 120 grit. Gives a slightly loose grain for the oil to soak in.

3. Preheat the oil. Fill hot water in the sink and set it in, squeeze occasionally till you see it’s half way melted. Do not microwave it! Plastic bottle will shrink and it will never stand up again. Been there …. done that.

4. Put down a cloth if doing it on a bench. Preheat the wood surface with a hair dryer. Don’t burn it. Back and forth moves. It doesn’t need to be exact but around 100 to 120 degrees.

5. Squirt a healthy amount on the warm area and quickly circle rub it in with your fingers while slowly fanning the dryer over the area. You want a very thin even wet coat. If it’s a long top don’t create a stop point on the first pass – keep moving. If you’re not doing the table bottom do the ends/edges as you go.

6. If doing the bottom: Try to stay even on the top radius edge with the oil line. Any runs down the edges need to be kept wiped with a dry rag.

7. Go back to the start and circle rub the oil while fanning the dryer over the area. Too dry – add a little oil. You want to see ‘almost’ dry spots appear as you move down the top. Then go back and repeat without the dryer. Then lightly wipe it even with your wet cleanup cloth.

If doing the bottom: Flip and repeat, including edges this time, and when done flip it to make sure the top doesn’t have runs. Let it set for at least 4 hours on props. Longer is better.

Now repeat that 2 more times using a cloth (not fingers) and then hand buff to a dull shine. Those 2 coats can be thinner. The more you rub on it the better the finish. I get the kids in involved. Mom loves the oily little hands.

Based on use, every 6 months it needs one quick coat. If you want a deeper oil protection, season it before the conditioner with Howard Cutting Board Oil.

Pro’s: Easy repairs. Damage to Hard finishes are difficult to repair.
Natural satin appearance.
Con’s: Leave a drink with condensation on it overnight and you might be rubbing out a ring. Depends on when the last coat was applied.

Wow, great detail in there. It will be used as similar to how a normal countertop is used, setting items on like dishes/glasses, food in pans/containers. This is not going to be in our home, it is in our dry cabin a few hours north of where we live.