Tim and the geiger tec guys build a strong mount and you can buy direct online. I used a trolling motor stabilizer onnthe bottom end and it fits under the boat cover. They make a nice mega live ice conversion mount too. Sure there are a few good options out there.
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The shallow/deep glitch is a bummer and the smartstike quit working with the update. I will be turning the shallow highlight off too but using depth highlight until there’s a fix and no more updates after that…
You are close enough just make sure to have you gas pressure adjusted and that the unit is set up for LP or you will have to convert it…which is easy. Djs or other contractors will do a set up for a reasonable fee if needed. A quick way to calculate is take your sq ft and multiply by 50 will get you close enough. You need at least 33,600 btu’s and your 80% heater puts out 40k btu’s. Since they only offer so many btu options your choice is fine. Pro 1 makes a nice t-stat that goes below 45 degrees for garages. You can even wire some heaters so it turns off if your garage door is open…if equipped with an end switch.
I use a milwaukee M12 spotlight that has 750 lumens and battery charge indicator. No more buying/disposing/remembering batteries or wondering how much life they have left. If you already use M12 tools why not.
Hey guys I’m looking at pulling the trigger on a new competitor 175 sport. Just kind of waiting on see how this covid plays out a little longer(don’t want to buy a boat I won’t be able to use, or afford if I lose my job due to this). Now I know everyone says to max out the hp but I see alot of these boats packaged with a 115hp. Is the 150 really worth it? I’m upgrading from a 14ft with a 30hp so I know I’ll be happy either way but at the same time I don’t want to make the wrong decision. I’m in Canada and I believe (still waiting on my dealer quote) the difference will be about $3000-$4000. Anyone here with the 115 that can provide some insight. Also I will mention this boat will be used on inland lakes for walleye mainly while also fishing some Bay’s on Lake Superior as it’s less than 5min from my door step.
Thanks
Mines a 2015 dominator 175 with a suzuki 115 and top end is 39mph with 2 people. I would pick the same combo if i did it again…it was a step up from the 50hp on the old 16’ boat. Spend more on your electronics and other upgrades imo (AGM batteries for sure) and if the troll down switch is still an option i use mine. My only complaints were being undersold on electronics and it was rigged without an auto bilge pump and a 2 bank battery charger but has 3 batteries. Hope everything works out and you get it!
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Dan wrote:</div>
To take this a step further, if the answer is crankbaits then for me it’s overwhelmingly firetiger color and it’s not even close.
Amen. I could go two years without buying firetiger anything and still be able to supply all of my friends.
Crankbaits and jigs by far for me, with spinner rigs as a distant third. I’d say I’ve got ~100 flicker shads and another ~150 shad raps in just about every size and color combination made. With each passing year, I fish slightly more aggressively and abandon live bait that much more often. Sure, I could probably lindy rig on a spot with crawlers or minnows and pick off some fish that don’t hit crankbaits…but I could also 3 way or pull leadcore for a couple miles in that timespan and likely up my success.
My fishing motto: Cover water and be willing to leave passive fish for more aggressive ones, while keeping the cooler cold. 
I thought i had a flicker shad problem…got about 80 of em along with plenty of jigs
Any Shelby Mustang guys out there?[/quote
Not a shelby but she’s my baby…34 years
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I use the metal traps. Once I dig access in the tunnel I cover the opening with cardboard and put a small nail hole in the middle then cover as much cardboard with dirt as I can. I heard from an old timer that small bit of light attracts them to fix it and pulls them into the traps. I havent had to do it for years. No gophers in my neighborhood.
I like the metal pinch traps. I leave the hole wide open because the old timer is right they come into the trap trying to fix it. I used to cover it but forgot the board once and by the time i got back to the hole he was already trapped so since then i just leave it open. The exhaust hose will get em too
I think they want to pay minimum wage to people to bother you until you don’t come back to their lake.
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Cabelas is open but not normal hours. I was there tues at 5:30 pm and they were closing at 6
Dmv online says trailer tabs can be processed through the mail or anoka county has drop boxes. Not sure how long it takes but i sent mine in. It did say to put dl# and phone # on your check. Offices may be closed till may 5th. I will b bummed if ramsey is open cuz i live 5 minutes away. A small piece of red electrical tape will do in a pinch
More so the dirt/silt/sediment gets stirred up when its windy before it freezes over and it takes a week or two for that to settle. Last year the ice was speckled where we were drilling and the water that came up when drilling was more than stained. I didn’t mean the water is “clear” up there but early ice it can be dirtier than normal. If you read the early reports the resorts mention the water “clearing up”
A few years ago I started shooting hevi shot (hevi metal and tungsten x) for waterfowl and even though it costs more per box i shoot less shells. No more cripples and no need to change to bb when the honkers come in. The coyote rounds are really impressive. If they ban lead for trap shooting that would be be disappointing. Bummer for the upland guys and the game farms too.
I have used the tundra for years early ice on red before the water clears up and they do work (red, green, and blue). Put one on a rattle reel overnight and had success too. I’ve had one defect and one that didn’t last long but plenty that have worked great. If you pull more than two northerns thru one hole the slime in the hole coats them and they won’t light…clean them off and use another hole. The first time my buddy had some and outfished me 5 to 1 till he finally gave me one. The glow stick style works too but I prefer the tundra. This year the buckshots outproduced them all year. And i have had minimal with them in clearer water and zero success on mille lacs.
Also to test or charge dual batteries you should disconnect them both to test/charge them. Disconnect both negatives first then positives and reverse the process when hooking back up is the best practice
This cold snap wont last long. If it’s never happened before just let it sit till saturday if u can. Your autostarting could have run the batteries down depending on how long it cranks over before timing out. Bad news is if u left the discharged batteries all day they might have froze and u mite end up replacing them. Either charging them right away or removing them and bringing inside would have been the best thing but if they are original you are coming due to replace them anyways. As far as the light and heat grid i would see if its still an issue with good batteries and warm weather. Next time plug it in when it gets this cold…lots of juice required to spin cold engine
AGM is the best for boating. They handle vibration and shock which match boating conditions. The marine versions of a standard deep cycle battery are designed to handle plenty of shock too but AGM’s are better. Verify your on board charger is compatible with AGM’s because they charge differently. If you stick with lead acid check the battery acid levels (fill with water)twice a year and trickle them a few times during the off season…you will cook them if you charge and the electrolyte level is low. 5 years on my original lead acids and still get 8+ hours of run time.
Maybe a hand crank auger…it would keep u in shape for those beatings
Tony Roach is an excellent guide on mille lacs. I took my brother out with him last month and him and his guys worked their butts off to find us fish…which we did. I usually go with a few friends and we always find fish and have a good time doing it. We will try to fish with Tony once a year cuz it was nice to just fish and let them do the work. Have fun and good luck!!
A non condensing Boiler in your situation does not really make much sense. In order to run a non condensing Boiler at low temps you will need to add some sort of mixing device to lower the supply temp to the floor and allow the boiler to run at a high enough temp to not condense. Any time a non condensing Boiler runs with a return water temp below 135-140 degrees it will condense and destroy itself over time. I’ve seen boilers that were completely rusted out after just a few years running like this. The cost of replacing the venting and adding either a mixing valve or doing injection mixing will probably be about the same as the cost difference between a non vs condensing Boiler. Combine that with efficiency over the life of the boiler and ability to use outdoor reset to control the supply temperature will shift the balance even further. There are many new condensing boilers with stainless steel heat exchangers available today that are Rock solid units. I am a master steam and hot water installer and master plumber, feel free to pm me if you would like.
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Only 25 years as a master automotive technician…I’ve seen a few things
He’s right the non condensing boiler with cast iron is more durable but they are generally used in baseboard heat with higher water temps and might have issues with lower temps used with plastic/pex tubing. We used to install electric boilers from electro industries in monticello that were bulletproof but your costs will go up. I’m sure the newest condensing boilers have made improvements and will work better with your system. All manufacturers reverse engineer their products and 15 years is what they shoot for to stay in business. I would go with a good brand and not overcomplicate it…my two cents.
If you have a tire or bearing failure at highway speeds you could have a life changing experience with that configuration. Don’t forget to maintain the trailer and keep your tire pressures at max on vehicle and trailer. I once borrowed a small utility trailer and had a bearing fail on the freeway and almost took out the guy in the lane next to me…my 1/2 ton suburban didn’t even feel the trailer swaying all over. IMO you are pushing the limit of that vehicle no matter what honda says.
The economy difference is minimal. The premium will have better detergents to keep the fuel system cleaner. Engines with direct injection i would recommend using premium every other or every third tank to maintain a cleaner fuel system. Just my opinion
Yak trax diamond grips work great. I wore out a pair from using them for work. Walking on asphalt and concrete eventually wore through the cable but it was worth it
I like my strikemaster 40 volt but for $69 i would get a new battery. You can always spend the money upgrading something else
Even the blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while
My cousin with 4 daughters and one son came up with this one:
“There are some things you need to have a penis to be able to understand”
Got an engel and the 3″ round stone that suctions to the bottom…works great. I fill with my clean well water before i leave the house and after a 3-4 days they are still doing good. If i use the water from the bait shop it gets nasty in 1-2 days.
That’s a good price. I got the xt pro x-over cabin and very happy with it. Wanted a lighter sled and only fish 2 people. The heavy insulation is awesome kept turning the buddy heater to pilot during early ice trip on red
If i’m renting I use north woods fish houses (last 3 years) and recommend him to anyone…got one booked in December. He is out of Mort’s now but used to be at Roger’s. I also go out of boondocks on our own if not renting a house. Can’t wait for Mille Lacs Ice fishing too
