Hi guys, I do not claim to be a carpenter but trying to do this one on my own. My question is what ties should I use to connect the rafters to the beam at the birds mouth cut. I will attach a photo. I see there are quite a few styles. I am hoping to use ties that are not as visible but do want the right ones on here. I should have though about it be for I secured the rafters but that is not my style.
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I’d use a Simpson H2.5A
I’d use a Simpson H2.5A
Thank you sir!
If possible take off one of the beams and install them in between. Place them as low as permitted.
Standard hurricane clips OR pending your codes/inspector can be replaced by timber lock screws – For a small porch to beam, I would use the 2.5’s. Remember, every hole is required to have a positive placement nail
https://www.strongtie.com/seismicandhurricaneties_strapsandties/h25a_htie/p/h25a
Is this being inspected?? Where are you at? I just looked back at your pic and that beam is not legal for WI. 2-ply beam needs to be together and will usually have a nail pattern at 12 or 16″ x3 or 4 pending size and weight rating. (also nailed from each side)
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I just looked back at your pic and that beam is not legal for WI
As long as it has shoulders on the posts (like he has) he should be fine. Just can’t hang the beams off the sides of the post. Like in your pic.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Randy Wieland wrote:</div>
I just looked back at your pic and that beam is not legal for WIAs long as it has shoulders on the posts (like he has) he should be fine. Just can’t hang the beams off the sides of the post. Like in your pic.
Multi – ply beams need the ply’s attached to each other – shoulders or not on each side, multi-ply beams are attached to each other to create the strength as one. Been through a lot of structural classes for this. Additionally, the rafter load is technically only bearing on the first 1-1/2″ beam.
depending on the span a 1X one ply may be adequate for the beam
Multi – ply beams need the ply’s attached to each other – shoulders or not on each side, multi-ply beams are attached to each other to create the strength as one. Been through a lot of structural classes for this. Additionally, the rafter load is technically only bearing on the first 1-1/2″ beam.
Even on something such as this, that looks to be a screened porch or lean-to type structure? Wouldn’t be much different than a deck, and I see about 90% of decks built this way.
For what it’s worth, I found a palm nailer to work great at nailing in hurricane and rafter ties on my shed.
depending on the span a 1X one ply may be adequate for the beam
Ram it through a few calcs with a number of assumptions
Rafter length 12’over all with 16” ver hang from bearring point
Beam = southern pine
Posts 5’ center to center
Immediately puts it to a min. 2 ply 2×8 beam nailed 2 rows staggered 16” oc. I can stretch that to just over 7’ span (2 ply) if I decrease snow load and increase top shearing to 3/4” and 1/2” sheet at bottom side.
By guessing, rafters are 16”oc and 6 spans between posts = 96” posts are 8’ oc
Randy, I did not plan to have them inspect this. I thought about nailing the beams together and seating it in the middle of the post but did not. I cut out shoulders and screwed them with 5 inch ledger locks at each side. I sided the house a couple weeks ago and had the ledger and siding inspected so that was out of the way. This is 10×20 roof and has 2×8 rafters on 16 inch centers. I wanted to attach the ties to the rafters on the outside beam? That is just for looks but not sure if they are supposed to be on the inside??. I am covering this with clear corrugated poly panels to keep weight down and let light in. I will be removing snow also so I still get the light. This project is mostly to keep my carvings and grill out of the rain and snow. I do not plan to sheet and shingle the roof anyways. Snow is my only enemy I believe??
For what it’s worth, I found a palm nailer to work great at nailing in hurricane and rafter ties on my shed.
Beats nailing those dam things in the old school way
The post are 8 ft on center and used 8 inch foots at 46 inches with big bells on the bottom.
I should have talked with you all before I pulled out my redneck framing book. haha. I am using #10 dipped nails for the hangers and ties.
Technically they need to attach to the bearing beam, which is the inside.
Personally, i think the calcs are a bit of over kill on that lean. But I have a different mindset. Everything I do must exceed min codes and my specs are generally much higher. If there is no risk that you have to rebuild it, carry on. Plus I just saw your pool 2, MN. What you guys do on your side of the river is your business.
Munch, in WI those 90% are 100% wrong by today’s codes. Info I had was straight from state code book
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Eelpoutguy wrote:</div>
depending on the span a 1X one ply may be adequate for the beamRam it through a few calcs with a number of assumptions
Rafter length 12’over all with 16” ver hang from bearring point
Beam = southern pine
Posts 5’ center to center
Immediately puts it to a min. 2 ply 2×8 beam nailed 2 rows staggered 16” oc. I can stretch that to just over 7’ span (2 ply) if I decrease snow load and increase top shearing to 3/4” and 1/2” sheet at bottom side.
By guessing, rafters are 16”oc and 6 spans between posts = 96” posts are 8’ oc
I built a porch on my place with 2×10 cedar rafters which would never make code. I put down 1/4″ soffit ply (faced towrads the int.) then used 3/4″ roof decking. Getting ready to shingle, threw a bundle down. It was like throwing it on a concrete sidewalk.
Moral of the story – there may be a better way even if the code books don’t state it.
Just ask Frank Lloyd Wright
Technically they need to attach to the bearing beam, which is the inside.
10/4. I appreciate the information here and will go this route!! I tend to make more work out of things doing it my way so any info is well taken here.
Just ask Frank Lloyd Wright
So true!!!! 
Munch, in WI those 90% are 100% wrong by today’s codes. Info I had was straight from state code book
Well MN is different, at least here in Rochester and everywhere else I’ve built a deck. And I believe Buschman is in MN.
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Didn’t know where he was at and was very clear every time in WI. MN is about 10 years behind us, so beware, change in coming
Didn’t know where he was at and was very clear every time in WI. MN is about 10 years behind us, so beware, change in coming
I’m not concerned, as I prefer to install laminated anyway. However the only beams I’ve ever needed to replace were laminated. They rotted from the inside out because they didn’t allow the water to dry out between them. Wouldnt even know they were rotting until it started showing itself on the ends. Cut it in half and there was less than 1/2″ of wood remaining on the faces. Which is why I now place flashing tape on the top of all exterior beams I install.
Definitely not legal in Mn. We’re right out of the irc. I’m an inspector for a twin cities suburb.
When some of you speak of a laminated beam are you referring to a Microllam or a Glulam?
No, beams nailed directly together is commonly referred to as laminated
Are they treated laminated beams?
When some of you speak of a laminated beam are you referring to a Microllam or a Glulam?
Almost all the engineering I receive will specify what type of lam (micro Lam, glue, etc. dim or dimensional lumber and mow specific what species because strength varies. (X) or ply will determine how many plys are mechanically attached to each other
Example – dim S.Pine 2×10 (3) 3R 12”c V
2×10 in southern pine with 3 plys nailed with 3 rows @ very 12” vertically. Two are required to be nailed both sides and the third is one side for obvious reasons.
I run into exterior grade gluelams a lot with stacked decks or where major point loads are carried. This house has a 13k point load cantilevered in both directions. GL616EXT (1)
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Are they treated laminated beams?
micro and glue Lam can be ordered for exterior. Need to use cause and pay close attention to manufacturers instructions. I use a lot of exterior glue lams. Some companies require cut ends to be treated and some require a final protective coat (ie paint/stain)
Definitely not legal in Mn. We’re right out of the irc. I’m an inspector for a twin cities suburb.
I’d love to spend a day in a fish house with you.
You ever get to the Outing area?
EPG, don’t get up there at all. But it’s always a possibility!! My background is plumbing &HVAC, but know enough about the building code by osmosis in our office. Remember, code is the worst job you can do and still get by with it. Minimum standards
I can tell you that the microlam lvls and glulams are great in every way except when it comes to paying for them 
Even with getting them at cost for our build and having pricing locked in months ago, the check I wrote last week for a bunch of them was painful.
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