If you look at the HP ratings for the 2010 Pro guide you see two ratings. One for a tiller with steer assist technology and one without.
My question is this. Why aren’t the other models allowed the option? I can see the 1825 with a 150hp, the 1725 with a 115hp and the 1675 with a 90hp. Anybody have any ideas?
I love the idea of a tiller boat but I hate the fact I’m being punished to a slower/underpowered rig cause it’s a tiller.
Good question Wade and I’m interested to hear the logic behind this as well.
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I love the idea of a tiller boat but I hate the fact I’m being punished to a slower/underpowered rig cause it’s a tiller.
This has been my issue with tillers for many years as well Wade. I finally have a chance to run one this year with some ponies behind it so i’m curious to see how I’ll like it compared to a wheel boat. Although its not a 55+ MPH rig like I would have liked, I’m guessing 50MPH feels pretty fast without a windshield to hide behind.
Here is a solution to that problem.
I’m not sure I’m ready to give up my windshield. However I bet this rig would haul tail.
The coast guard rates the HP for the boat. A wheel boat will have a higher rating because they are more safe to operate than a tiller. My last tiller boat was grossly under HP.
I believe it has to do with the coast guard ratings related to length. For an 18′ boat they will only allow a certain horsepower, for a 19′ another, and so on. If a Pro Guide 2010 was 19′ 11″ it couldn’t have the higher rating.
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The coast guard rates the HP for the boat. A wheel boat will have a higher rating because they are more safe to operate than a tiller. My last tiller boat was grossly under HP.
Yeah, I know the USCG rates the boats. I have a strong opinion they are terribly behind the times regarding technology.
No high HP outboards on a tiller but any dingleberry can get behind the wheel of a tuna boat or 80 MPH catamaran without any training or licensing and boat away.
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I believe it has to do with the coast guard ratings related to length. For an 18′ boat they will only allow a certain horsepower, for a 19′ another, and so on. If a Pro Guide 2010 was 19′ 11″ it couldn’t have the higher rating.
Let’s hope Skeeter uses this to their advantage and makes the 20′ MX tiller 20’1″.
After reading the question closer, there really isn’t a good explanation. If I can put a 200 hp on an 18 wheel boat, I should be able to put something near that hp on an 18′ with power steering. Maybe its a weight distribution problem. I guess the Coast Guard is behind the times and for many boat manufacturers the tiller market isn’t worth the time and money to fight it. Warrior figured out a way around these ratings years ago and that is a big reason why they are so popular among tiller fishermen. I guess it takes a different breed to not want to hide behind a piece of glass/plastic when going 50 mph in the snow, sleet, and spray. 
Here is some good info on how they come up with the ratings for capacity..
http://files.dnr.state.mn.us/education_safety/safety/boatwater/backyardboatbuilders.pdf
I believe they go by the beam width. Example 620T ranger, and 620vs. Same length, but 620vs is wider. So the rating goes up.
As far as skeeter tiller, you will defiantly want to talked to past owners before you purchase one. Everyone I know with one, is experiencing spider cracking in the gel coat, due to stress and flexing. So they had better figure that out before they look at a bigger motor.
I just bought a 2012 1825 Pro Guide. As others mentioned, the HP rating is set by the coast guard. The split rating Wade is asking about is only on the 2010 model (20’er). I believe it stems from Mercury’s hydrolic option on the bigger motors. If you did not want a hydrolic steer assist, you can only get a 115 on the 2010, which I would imagine would be grossly under powered. With the hydrolic assist, you can get a 150, 175, or 200 HP. Mercury does not offer the hydrolic steering on the 90 HP model for the 1825. I opted for the 90 4 stroke Yamaha with aftermarket Titan assist hydro-steer. Per the dealer, it should run about 39-40 MPH with the 90. I wish the Coast Guard would open that rating up and allow the 1825 a 150HP…that would be awesome. The 200 on a 2010 runs in the low 50MPH range I’ve been told…
Bigfife, I agree. The ratings should be increased with the power steering options available. With the Hydro steering lock out mechanicism, the big tillers are safer than ever before and also to me, seem safer than a wheel boat.
Wade, what is this thing, and who sells it?
I have a 90 hp merc with factory power steering on the way. It will be an 1825 pro guide.
So are you getting a new boat Wade? 
All of the research that I have done showed that with the right prop a 90 hp 1825 pro guide should be able to touch 40 mph. Theoretically a 115 should be 45-50. With power steering, I don’t think that would be an issue. I agree that the USCG is in the dark about this issue along with many others. 
I think if the tuna boaters were required to show competence in navigation, my entertainment on the river would be severely impacted. I usually get a pretty good giggle out of the boat ramp antics. 
I’ll tell you I love the Skeeter. Excellent boat. However I’ve been throwing around the idea of switching to a tiller. I understand that Warrior and Lund 2010 Pro Guide has figured out a way around the USCG and their 1970’s (behind the times) HP rating system.
Tillers are seriously under powered as a whole with a few exceptions. I don’t really want a 30-40 MPH boat. I would like to see more MPH at times.
I was between a 2010 and an 1825. I went with the 1825 for many reasons, but mostly price and fuel economy. I could get a loaded 1825 for less than the starting price of a 2010. I am not going to be fishing any tourneys on western reservoirs, and don’t need to be feeding a 200 hp for the rest of the time. My new boat should hit 40 and that will be ok with me. I have a 90 yammi on my current boat and it sips fuel and gets around just fine. If you want the speed, a 200 on a 2010 should get you there in fine style, and about $15k less than a glass boat. 
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I was between a 2010 and an 1825. I went with the 1825 for many reasons, but mostly price and fuel economy. I could get a loaded 1825 for less than the starting price of a 2010. I am not going to be fishing any tourneys on western reservoirs, and don’t need to be feeding a 200 hp for the rest of the time. My new boat should hit 40 and that will be ok with me. I have a 90 yammi on my current boat and it sips fuel and gets around just fine. If you want the speed, a 200 on a 2010 should get you there in fine style, and about $15k less than a glass boat.
I must say I’m anxious to hear if you get 40 MPH. 40 MPH isn’t bad at all and I know the Yammi 90 4stroke sips gas. Might be a decent option.
As much as I like glass I’ve always liked the Pro Guide.
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Wade, what is this thing, and who sells it?
Are you referring to the mask? Google “Paintball Masks”. A number of options come up. There is a guy/company out there who is building something similar to this for boaters but I cannot remember the name.
The CG formula to calculate the HP rating (remember the regs apply to boats under 20ft in length- the mfgs determine their own limits on 20+ boats but am sure their ins liability carriers undoubtedly have a big say) the formula is:
factor = width(in feet) x length then this “factor” determines the formula- to use- if the factor is more than 52.5, which is any boat more than 4′ beam and 13′ plus length; then formula is:
(you can raise hp to next multiple of 5)
If boat has remote steer and at least 20″ transom, (2 x Factor – 90 = HP) Exmple 18.3″
If no remote steer OR transom less than 20in,
(0.8 x Factor – 25 = HP)
Width is maximum transom width in feet excluding handles, attachments and extensions, If boat does not have a full transom, th transom width is the widest beam in the aftermost quarter length of the boat.
Example- Remote steer- 96″ width(8′) 18′ 3″ length
8 x 18.4 = 147.2 factor — (2 x 147.2 -90 = 204.4hp) or rounded up to 210 HP but no 210 HP motors so set it at 200.
Tiller- Same size boat- (0.8 x 147.2 -25 = 92.76hp) or rounded up to 95hp no 95hp motors so 90 rating.
We shall see if it is true, I will have a detailed review as soon as the bugger gets here. I am getting itchy to see it. In the mean while, my alumacraft navigator 165 will consistently run 38 with the aluminum Yamaha prop that came from the factory (90 horse 4stk). The new pro guide will have a 90 merc and a 13 x 18p vengeance stainless. I would have rigged a Yamaha but I wanted full power steering.
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I was between a 2010 and an 1825. I went with the 1825 for many reasons, but mostly price and fuel economy. I could get a loaded 1825 for less than the starting price of a 2010. I am not going to be fishing any tourneys on western reservoirs, and don’t need to be feeding a 200 hp for the rest of the time. My new boat should hit 40 and that will be ok with me. I have a 90 yammi on my current boat and it sips fuel and gets around just fine. If you want the speed, a 200 on a 2010 should get you there in fine style, and about $15k less than a glass boat.
I must say I’m anxious to hear if you get 40 MPH. 40 MPH isn’t bad at all and I know the Yammi 90 4stroke sips gas. Might be a decent option.
As much as I like glass I’ve always liked the Pro Guide.
My 1825 Pro guide can hit 40.5 with a Merc 4strk and a light load. That’s with a 19p aluminum prop which makes it really slow out of the hole. I’m going to drop to a 17p and don’t expect to see 40 again.
Joe
Have you ever ran a stainless prop?
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