2004 tyee live well problem?

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    waskish minnesota on upper red lake
    Posts: 870
    #1307388

    My boat has two live wells one in the front and one in the rear. The front one has to be primed by pooring water in it or driving in reverse. if I have the recirclate on the live well works fine but if I travel the live well goes empty. The rear live well always drains out untell theres two inches of water in it.It works fine if you have it on recirculate but when I park the boat itdrains down to 2 inches? Any know whaty the problem would be .Its been like this since new. I have some other quirks but we will start with this one

    stuwest
    Elmwood, WI
    Posts: 2254
    #972070

    don’t know for certain and i’ve not encountered the problem, but it sounds like a simple pump change out would solve it.

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    waskish minnesota on upper red lake
    Posts: 870
    #972187

    Both live well pumps seem to work fine and pump water in . The front one will some times be air locked and need help. Once there full they turn off and recirculate off and on fine. When I travel the front livewell drains empty. When I park the boat the front well drains and the rear drains out until there about two inches of water left?

    payday
    Ramsey, Mn
    Posts: 113
    #972292

    It sounds as though you do not have an open/close lever like the Pro-V’s do. If that is the case, the only way to keep water in the well is to put a plug in the bottom drain hole.

    There is a picture on Lund’s website of the 2011 rear livewell and it shows a plug on the bottom..

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    waskish minnesota on upper red lake
    Posts: 870
    #972341

    I do have two levers one for the back and one for the front. Both have plugs that are in? Who ever rigged the boat did a horse shi
    job. But They would not of installed the levers. I’m thinking it may be in those levers as they show empty,fill,recirculate.

    payday
    Ramsey, Mn
    Posts: 113
    #972372

    Those valves are either bad or out of adjustment. Contact your dealer and see if they’ll replace them. It’s not a tough job to do yourself, as long as your a semi-contortionist

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    waskish minnesota on upper red lake
    Posts: 870
    #972610

    So those were put in by the rigger or are they put in by Lund? I beleave that sounds like that is the problem. thanks thats what i weill look into

    John Gildersleeve
    Frazee,MN
    Posts: 742
    #973930

    Lund installs the livewell pump valves. They are out of adjustment. This was a common problem in those years. It is not Lund or the rigger’s fault, it is the manufacturer of the valve’s fault. They installed the pedals inside the pump so they actually cause the water to be blocked off when the valve should be open allowing the water to fill the livewell. If you disconnect the valve from the black plastic hoses you can take the valve apart and eyeball how the pedals are supposed to be located when you actuate the valve. Reset the pedals in the right location and the livewells will work awesome. I have changed many in my time while working at Hoots Sports. It is a easy fix and would save yourself money to fix it yourself.

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    waskish minnesota on upper red lake
    Posts: 870
    #976212

    The rear one I took the selector switch off and used a pliers to turn it as tight as it would go and now it stays full. Where are these valves as i would assume they are both out of adjustment. thanks I may still get to the bottom of this

    Denny O
    Central IOWA
    Posts: 5719
    #976215

    They should be within the rear 3 to 4 feet of your boat. Mine are just ahead of my I/O motor.
    Once you find them, The screw holding down the outer cable housing is where and how you adjust the travel in the cable.

    John Gildersleeve
    Frazee,MN
    Posts: 742
    #976422

    If the pedals inside the valve are not in the right spot, adjusting the cable will not help much. The valves sit in front of the pump’s and will need to be removed from the hose inorder to change the postion of the pedals. The valve is easy to take apart. When you get the valve out just turn it on the side and you will see the screws you need to take out to remove the cover of the valve. Once you remove the cover you will see the pedals inside that controls how the water flows through the valve. Then just study how the valve works by moving the valve in the direction that the selector switch would move it and make sure the pedals are in the right position. The valves are generally in the back of the boat by the pumps. If you need a picture I might have a valve in the garage that I could take some pictures of. I am not sure how you post it on here, but I could try if it helps.

    Denny O
    Central IOWA
    Posts: 5719
    #976462

    We are saying the same thing, opening the unit was implied but not stated.

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    waskish minnesota on upper red lake
    Posts: 870
    #1074656

    My 2004 has the identecal problems. Both my contoll switches have now broken. Very frustrating as it has been like that since i got the boat.Stupid ? but does the boat need to be out of the water to mess with those valves. Yesterday the front pump does not go on .I assume it has quit working?

    Denny O
    Central IOWA
    Posts: 5719
    #1074658

    In my thinking the boat could be in or out. With the boat in the water, you’ll have to clamp off the incoming water hose from the back of the boat or have someone put a plug in the back port.

    John Gildersleeve
    Frazee,MN
    Posts: 742
    #1075249

    I would work on it out of the water. The switches usally brake from the cable getting bent or pinched. If you replace the switches make sure you replace the cable or you will end up with the same results. Be real careful not to bend the cable too much during installation, as a matter of fact when buying a new cable,make sure the cable will slide in and out nice before you leave the dealer.

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    waskish minnesota on upper red lake
    Posts: 870
    #1176568

    same issues have broken both switches on 2004 tyee. How are these flappers adjusted?

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