Sleeping in a hub shelter

  • Tim J
    Duluth, MN
    Posts: 539
    #1305434

    Had an idea yesterday. My current ice fishing set up is a frabill trekker. Overall I like it but the truth is its a little small for me and a buddy (I’m 6’2″ 320) and the only times I flip it up are in extreme wind and when the gf is with. So I was thinking that I may just sell the trekker and go for the clam bigfoot 4000 thermal for a couple reasons:
    1) I do most fishing outside so there is no point in hauling around the trekker to use as a sled and chair.
    2) setting up the hub for the nite bite would be simple and more roomy
    3) and most importantly; could I use the hub to sleep in overnights and avoid renting hotels or sleepers? a good cot, little buddy on low, fan, CO detector, good sleeping bag, a couple rattle reels… possibilities are endless.
    Anyone done this before or have any opinion from there experience? Thanks for the help.

    patk
    Nisswa, MN
    Posts: 1997
    #1198746

    I HIGHLY recommend a good sleeping bag over running a heater overnight. Even with a CO detector that’s too risky for me.

    I’ve got some background with winter camping and have learned most lessons the hard way. Being able to fire a heater up in the morning to get a break from the cold is most of what’s needed. I’ve never tried a cot since I’m usually in the backcountry. I would guess you will have the same challenge of cold seeping through the bottom. I use two sleeping pads for winter(after using 1).

    Leather boots(Sorels) that aren’t waterproofed will freeze overnight. Coat with sno-seal prior to going out not when you get home.

    You’re idea will work as a way to have a place to play cards, avoid hotel costs, rattle reels, and a portable poor man’s sleeper.

    One possible drawback, how often do you take the girlfriend fishing? Do you move the Trekker when the two of you are out? I’ve convinced my girlfriend, fiance, and now wife to come out a couple times a year. If the fish aren’t biting it’s pretty easy to drill a couple more holes and move the flip up shelter.

    Mudshark
    LaCrosse WI
    Posts: 2973
    #1198751

    Quote:


    I HIGHLY recommend a good sleeping bag over running a heater overnight. Even with a CO detector that’s too risky for me.



    X2

    Tim J
    Duluth, MN
    Posts: 539
    #1198766

    I’ve winter camped in BWCAW before. Usually done two mediocre sleeping bags and two pads. How good of a bag would you suggest? Anyone know how well the insulated shelters retain heat? Like if its 10 degrees out and I run the heater while I’m awake fishing at night then shut off the heater when I go to sleep, what will the temp inside be and how long will it retain that heat? Also good point about the trekker and mobility. I may just keep the trekker and buy the popup just for overnights. I think it would be awesome to just drive up North for a weekend and fish without having to pre-arrange a rental house or a motel.

    Wade Boardman
    Grand Rapids, MN
    Posts: 4451
    #1198772

    Quote:


    I’ve winter camped in BWCAW before. Usually done two mediocre sleeping bags and two pads. How good of a bag would you suggest? Anyone know how well the insulated shelters retain heat? Like if its 10 degrees out and I run the heater while I’m awake fishing at night then shut off the heater when I go to sleep, what will the temp inside be and how long will it retain that heat? Also good point about the trekker and mobility. I may just keep the trekker and buy the popup just for overnights. I think it would be awesome to just drive up North for a weekend and fish without having to pre-arrange a rental house or a motel.


    These hubs will retain the heat for about 12 seconds.

    I would get a bag rated for -30 or -40.

    Tim J
    Duluth, MN
    Posts: 539
    #1198775

    Really? Then whats the point in spending the extra 100$ for the thermal version over the regular shelter?

    Wade Boardman
    Grand Rapids, MN
    Posts: 4451
    #1198779

    Quote:


    Really? Then whats the point in spending the extra 100$ for the thermal version over the regular shelter?


    so you can carry extra weight.

    Don’t believe me, turn off the heat on a cold windy January night and see how long before you can see your breath.

    Seriously they will hold heat for a few minutes, but that is max.

    mark-bruzek
    Two Harbors, MN
    Posts: 3837
    #1198783

    If you think about it the insulated tarp is about as thick as a good sweatshirt so all you need to ask is how long will a sweatshirt stay warm in winter once the heat is off…

    Matt Brookman
    Stillwater, Minnesota
    Posts: 183
    #1198801

    I slept two nights in a row late ice on Upper Red last year in a buddies Frabill thermal Headquarters. We had cut ply wood and made holes in it to line up with the ice fishing holes and dimensions of the shack (key to staying warmer and dry). It was -10 below and we had a 15mph wind. the shack stayed plenty warm all night with a big buddy heater and we were comfortable in cots and light sleeping bags.

    patk
    Nisswa, MN
    Posts: 1997
    #1198927

    Quote:


    I’ve winter camped in BWCAW before. Usually done two mediocre sleeping bags and two pads. How good of a bag would you suggest? Anyone know how well the insulated shelters retain heat? Like if its 10 degrees out and I run the heater while I’m awake fishing at night then shut off the heater when I go to sleep, what will the temp inside be and how long will it retain that heat? Also good point about the trekker and mobility. I may just keep the trekker and buy the popup just for overnights. I think it would be awesome to just drive up North for a weekend and fish without having to pre-arrange a rental house or a motel.


    Since you’ve winter camped up north before you’ve got most of your answer with your experience. Personally I’ve have a -20 bag that’s done well. In hindsight I would either do that again or a zero. If it was colder then stuff another bag on the inside.

    As for insulated vs non-insulated I guess it’s a matter of pocket book. Sounds like the insulated is not a silver bullet but hey, it’s got to be better. If you can find a deal or part with the cash, go insulated.

    cat-stevens
    Rochester,MN
    Posts: 449
    #1198940

    Quote:


    Quote:


    Really? Then whats the point in spending the extra 100$ for the thermal version over the regular shelter?


    so you can carry extra weight.

    Don’t believe me, turn off the heat on a cold windy January night and see how long before you can see your breath.

    Seriously they will hold heat for a few minutes, but that is max.


    Gotta agree with Wade on this one…you really have to consider the fact that a hub has no floor. Sure insulation will help as far as protecting you from the outer elements, but you will still have a nice deep freeze for a floor…

    Tschoer
    Posts: 3
    #1199072

    I have a Otter Pro Lodge and it is great to sleep in. I put down those interlocking foam mats on the ice and use a cot. I run my little buddy on low with a -30 bag and usually end up shutting off the heater. Have a heater/cooker also hooked up so I can cook. Nice to wake up and fish and drink a cup of coffee first thing in the morning.

    Tim J
    Duluth, MN
    Posts: 539
    #1199085

    could you point me in the direction of the foam mats?

    Tschoer
    Posts: 3
    #1199118

    Wal-Mart, Menards,etc. You will find them in the fitness section at Wal-Mart and in the flooring section at Menards. I hooked them together depending on the size that I need and then duct tape them together at the seams so they don’t come apart. Foam mats that roll up also work. They are found in the fitness section at Wal Mart also. Easy to cut with a sharp utility knife to make the size you need.

    Curt
    Chisholm, MN
    Posts: 16
    #1663036

    Sorry to join the conversation a little late, I camp in my Eskimo 949i with the wife. We use no floor, two cots, sleeping bags and a heater with the vents open. It works good and the dog sleeps in the middle or on my lap. one cot on each side and one hole each. Its a little tight, most of extra stuff needs to go outside or in the truck, but its cheap and better than spending a few hundred on a sleeper somewhere. I have been thinking of getting a floor to retain heat better but it works for now. Anyone else have any good tips for hub camping? I was thinking of upgrading to a double hub like the Clam bigfoot or some other insulated HUB to have a sleeping room and fishing room.

    CK

    Geerdes
    Brandon, SD 57005
    Posts: 791
    #1663042

    My Polar Bird has a floor.

    super_do
    St Michael, MN
    Posts: 1069
    #1663043

    If you don’t leave the heat on, you might as well leave the rattle reels up. They will freeze up fairly quickly.

    Woodshed
    Elk River, MN
    Posts: 213
    #1663047

    Rubber tile flooring works well and provides a little insulation between your feet and the ice. Easy to cut to shape. Easy to transport since they break down into individual tiles. Easy to bring inside to dry them out.

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    Curt
    Chisholm, MN
    Posts: 16
    #1663050

    Yes thats a great idea. We usually only spend maybe 2-4 weekends a year sleeping on the ice so in my mind not worth a ice castle. Plus its more fishing and camping. I am headed to lake of woods in like 10 days for a few days so I may try and get some of those and see how they work. Thank you!

    belletaine
    Nevis, MN
    Posts: 5116
    #1663052

    I have a Eskimo 949I that I made a plywood floor for. I used 2X2’s for framing and have the rigid Styrofoam insulation under it. The floor extends about 6″ on all sides. I use an old chaise lounge for sleeping, during the day it’s folded up and takes up very little space. I really enjoy the solitude of a couple nights on the ice.

    Curt
    Chisholm, MN
    Posts: 16
    #1663053

    Yes thats a good idea as well. I have the same shelter 949i. It works great and good size for 1-2 and a dog. I’m on the iron range so my try a weekend up for lakers up by ely out there as well. A precut roll-up may would work nice as well. Would need to get some holes pre-cut however

    Bass_attack
    Posts: 292
    #1663059

    Did the OP ever try sleeping in the hub?

    haleysgold
    SE MN
    Posts: 1351
    #1663061

    My Polar Bird has a floor.

    X2.
    They have a nice floor with precut holes in them. And you cut more if you want.
    Pretty sweet hub style if you ask me and the price won’t break the bank.

    Woodshed
    Elk River, MN
    Posts: 213
    #1663064

    Since I chimed in, I gotta say I am a little uncomfortable with the idea of running the stove while asleep, even with the vents open. While it may be unlikely, wind direction can change to make those vents not provide fresh air like you hope. The fact is, once your asleep, you’ll never wake up to realize something is going wrong with your oxygen supply.

    I trained with the Norwegian Army up in their mountains during the winter. While we had heaters for our small tents with stove pipes, that fed carbon monoxide outside, you shut the heater off when you slept… No compromises. Believe it or not, with a sleeping bag made for winter camping you stayed plenty warm. You just need the tent to keep the wind off you.

    The only controversy was deciding who got out of the rack first to light the stove when it was time to get up. Trust me, no one volunteered for that duty. I guarantee my wife would make me lite the heater a half hour before she gets out of the sleeping bag.

    Sorry to sound preachy, just wanted to get that out there since I chimed in already about flooring.

    Have fun and stay safe.

    belletaine
    Nevis, MN
    Posts: 5116
    #1663065

    <font class=”small”>Quote:</font>

    <hr>Really? Then whats the point in spending the extra 100$ for the thermal version over the regular shelter?

    <hr>

    <font class=”post”> so you can carry extra weight. </font>
    <font class=”post”>
    Don’t believe me, turn off the heat on a cold windy January night and see how long before you can see your breath.

    </font><font class=”post”>Seriously they will hold heat for a few minutes, but that is max. </font>

    The insulation helps keep down the frost on the inside.

    belletaine
    Nevis, MN
    Posts: 5116
    #1663067

    …also I should add that, for me anyway, I don’t zone out and get a straight eight hours of sleep when I stay on the ice. I’m up and down throughout the night using the heater intermittently.

    FishBlood&RiverMud
    Prescott
    Posts: 6689
    #1663073

    I’ll chime in here.
    This is something I’ve done extensively in the past, Not so much recently since I pretty much live on the river anyway.

    I’ve used QF3, But upgraded to a XL4000T for space…I’m 6’6″ and can’t lay down in a QF3… I used a zero gravity chair to sleep in when in the QF3 and I use a cot now in the xl4000T.

    My routine.
    I sleep in my striker suit. No blankies…No sleeping bags…Just wear what I’d wear normally.

    I use a cot. Small air mattress on cot. Heavy duty space blanket between cot and air mattress to reject cold air from below.

    Safety is very important. I’ve nearly become a corpse from CO.

    I put a fan in a door (no opening windows on XL4000T unfortunately). The fan blows air IN. You can let mother nature blow air in…but wind can change direction, and what’ll kill you is when the wind quits. Use that fan to blow air in to keep fresh air around you.

    I run a sunflower, or double sunflower heater…all night.

    CO2 detector hung in shanty.
    I also light a candle.

    When the rattle reel goes…my boots are already on…I just get the line.

    I don’t use any kind of floor…never have.

    One other important thing to mention that I do differently than most is to keep the heater off the ice. I am not a fan of the ice skating rink, or better yet pond that can form.
    Therefore my sunflowers are always mounted to the top of the tank, even if it is the heater/cooker style….I clamp that baby on the top of the tank. Keeps the ice from melting…Common thing for people to bch about sunflower heaters…PICK THEM UP.

    I always put a fan in the roof of the house blowing heat DOWN. Certainly helps warm up the shelter.

    Do not be afraid to run excessive inflow of air…Just bring more heat. Thus the double sunflower.

    Why insulated vs non-insulated…Condensation.
    It is hard to sleep when your hub is raining on you ) Been there done that.

    The insulated houses will cake with condensation (frozen) thoughout the night and you will have a thick heavy house to dry out when you get home. FYI… Insulated does accumulate moisture over time….It is just less likely to rain on you.

    I cook on the heater/cooker/sunflowers…Something in tinfoil typically.

    In the past, it would be a rare winter weekend that I wasn’t sleeping on the ice. Only time it has nearly killed me was prior to me using a fan to blow air IN, on a night when mille lacs when zero wind. Surprised I woke up when my sunflower quit running due to lack of o2.

    FishBlood&RiverMud
    Prescott
    Posts: 6689
    #1663075

    Also, there is a group started called ICE F.A.N. Which I think means “Fish all night”.

    Anyway, there’s suggestions in there about exactly what your asking about.

    I wouldn’t disagree with anyone about not running heat for safety…But with significant air flow, it is a non-issue to run heat all night.
    Hells bells I run my sunflower in my 1-man house…I just run excessive air flow to compensate…Why…Because sunflowers always work, in any wind or with any bump or nudge.
    Peace…I gots to go deer hunting.

    castle-rock-clown
    Posts: 2596
    #1663090

    I built a floor on skis and slept in my Clam thermal with cot, insulated mattress, big buddy heater (vents open), co detector.

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    Hudson8907
    NULL
    Posts: 102
    #1663116

    That floor on skis is great! I need to build one now

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