I have a property with power on it, an H-Frame frame with the power meter, a main breaker box, and a secondary breaker box with a 50A, 30A and a few 15A outlets for camping. I am putting up a garage this spring and want to run power to it. It is approx. 100ft away from the meter, what type of wire would I need? I plan to trench in 2in pipe to pull it thru and add a small breaker box in the garage.
Sounds to me like you are wanting to put in a sub panel.
A sub panel will be a 4 wire burial.
You will need to determine what amperage your service feed is at the meter box and then figure out what amperage you want/are able to have available at the garage.
If you have 100amp service at your main panel on you H you can not “legaly” run 100amps to a sub panel.
As always, it is better to over build your system. I recomend buying your wire from a supplier like Greybar vs buying the crap that menards will try to sell you. Buying individual wires at Greybar will be cheaper and also combined will be a smaller dia.
I’m not a fan of direct burrial either, do it right, do it once and use schedule 80 and 40 conduit and pull the wire.
Pm me for any specific questions, as I just did all this in my polebarn last summer.
Even though you are pulling a ground wire to your sub panel, I would also play it safe and add an 8′ ground rod also.
I would definitely run it in 2″ conduit. Long sweeping bends and individual wires. Depending on your current/future needs will determine what type of wire you’ll want to pull.
Even though you are pulling a ground wire to your sub panel, I would also play it safe and add an 8′ ground rod also.
I believe that is a requirement.
I would definitely run it in 2″ conduit. Long sweeping bends and individual wires. Depending on your current/future needs will determine what type of wire you’ll want to pull.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Musky Ed wrote:</div>
Even though you are pulling a ground wire to your sub panel, I would also play it safe and add an 8′ ground rod also.I believe that is a requirement.
In the NEC that IS a requirement
Lots of ways to do it. I Minnesota once you have a meter on site and I assume WI is the same you can actually run from the meter to the garage not from the house panel. Then it is not a sub panel anymore but a new service thus the ground is not needed. If you run from a panel to another panel then it is considered a sub panel and you need a ground and you need to isolate the neutrals (white wires) and ground in the sub panel and you will need an additional ground bar and do not insert the green screw thru the neutral bar to the can of the panel, One would attach the ground bar to the can of the panel, thus isolating the neutral wires from the can of the sub panel and grounds. Not complicated just a procedure to follow. Run from the meter to he shop and make it easy and more cost effective, just remember any separate building fed from any source still needs 2 ground rods driven at it. As far a wire size 100 amp you need to run 1/0 aluminum or #2 copper.
Thanks for the responses. I do plan on putting in 2in pipe with a pull rope and no sharp 90’s, just sweeps (familiar with telcom/cable construction)
I should have specified more info. This garage will not have any need for high amp draw things more than a small AC unit or heater with a few outlets to charge things and a couple lights. I was thinking I would only need (2) 15A breakers. What I dont know is the type/size wire I would need based on the 100ft distance.
Bigstorm, This question is like asking what arrow rest to put on your bow or what gun to buy. You will have multiple answers that all are different. However here is my two pennies I can offer lol! If your going to have a AC I’m assuming window AC that will require a miminum 15A usually 20A dedicated circuit. However with your heater which is a non-coincidental load with AC will require a 30A based on a 5 KW heater which in turn require 240Vs and your window AC will be 120. Many people have suggested a sub panel or a new service. Going off the meter socket for the new service would work if your meter socket is rated for multiple wires on the load side of the meter. However if your meter socket is a breaker style and has a main then your could go from there otherwise you have to go off of your service panel. Your installation would then be a sub panel as the meter is considered the service or main service panel. I would run a 60Amp sub panel in the garage to give you 240V for a heater. That would require #4 copper or #1 aluminum with voltage drop considered.
Good luck!
Question for the electrical gurus out there.
For the OP’s described needs, can’t UF (underground feeder) cable alone be used and directly buried without conduit (24 inches below grade, I believe?) as long as it’s sized properly for the run and load?
I believe any portion of the UF that comes above grade has to be in conduit, but can a guy avoid a long run of conduit by using UF instead?
Grouse
Question for the electrical gurus out there.
For the OP’s described needs, can’t UF (underground feeder) cable alone be used and directly buried without conduit (24 inches below grade, I believe?) as long as it’s sized properly for the run and load?
I believe any portion of the UF that comes above grade has to be in conduit, but can a guy avoid a long run of conduit by using UF instead?
Grouse
Yes it can. However what happens when your needs change and you need to double the amperage to the garage. Or one of the wires goes bad and needs to be replaced?(seen that a handful of times). Better start digging! Why not just spend a little extra, dig one trench and you now can easily pull the old stuff out and pull new in. Also the conduit is just a little bit of insurance incase someone decides they need a post or tree right on top of the electrical line they don’t realize is there.(seen and fixed that) Most people don’t realize they nicked that cable down there until a few years later they’re wondering why only half the lights work, a phase is missing, and they’re power bill is sky high because you’re send electricity directly into the ground.
Yes,
Everything you said is correct. Except whether your installing UF or conduit you need to be 18″ below grade however 12″ if you are 120V or less with GFCI protection and not over 20 Amps. It is more expensive to install conduit and wire however the likely hood of the system failing if installed correctly is almost zero. Also the other benefit is the ability to upsize the conductors if needed. I think 2″ is a little to big for his use. This will create problems with entering the service in the house and entering the sub panel in the garage.
No need for 2″, especially if you’re only going to have two 90’s.
Add a 3/4″ or 1″ for low voltage/data since you’re digging the trench anyways.
In conduit, do you still need the CAUTION ribbon, buried 1′ above the wires ?
Anyone mention a frost loop?
If you use conduit you can suck a string thru it with a vacuum, then a rope, then wire.
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