Outboard battery cut off

Looking for recommendations on a battery cut off for my 9.9 kicker. I need something that would be close to the battery I could just switch on or off easily.

Something like this? battery cutoff
HRG

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Was thinking more of a switch. I see lots on e-bay and Amazon but most look cheap. Maybe I’m over thinking it but was hoping someone had experience with one and maybe ones to stay away from.

The problem is this motor started smoking under the cowling last year in my garage. After tearing the thing apart and not finding anything wrong with it I reassembled it and it works fine. I just want to be able to kill the power when not using it and turn it on when I need it.

I have used these on a few boats for main battery cutoff switches. I am sure you can buy it off amazon or possibly somewhere locally. Seem to be good quality.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/11/37/Manual_Battery_Switches/m-Series

Thank you I’ll check them out

Good option mentioned above but your cowling smoking is not normal for power switch or not.

Ripjiggen wrote:

Good option mentioned above but your cowling smoking is not normal for power switch or not.

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Right,that’s why I don’t want power too it unless I’m right there to monitor it, until I’m confident it’s not going to happen again. I also want to be able to kill power very quickly if there is an issue.

Gino,I know we have discussed this issue,I would still like to see the stator after the flywheel has been removed and did some testing.
Look that thing over real good looking for charred/melted plastic on all of the wiring.
Pay particular attention to all of the connections and if they appear to bubbled or burnt looking.

Thanks iowaboy, I have studied every wire on this motor and found no damage. I have not removed the flywheel, that is a good idea but the dam thing runs perfect. I suppose I should look under there. I would love to just sell it and get a new one but I can’t in good conscience do that to someone, great running motor may or may not start on fire. Lol

What is the motor

2002 9.9 Yamaha

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My vote is save your money on the switch, and apply it twords getting it fixed. If your happy with it, no need for a new one just fix what you have. There is no way I would ever run that out fishing again till it was fixed. The thought of having a fire in a boat would scare me to death. Just remember there is rubber gas lines connected to that engine. If you seriously have a conscience and couldn’t unload it on someone else, it needs to be fixed. Forget the wasted time and money on a switch and find a good mechanic. I guarantee when it’s fixed you will be glad you went that way, and get back to some stress free fishing.

dhpricco wrote:

I have used these on a few boats for main battery cutoff switches. I am sure you can buy it off amazon or possibly somewhere locally. Seem to be good quality.

Yeap, that’s the one I installed as my main power disconnect.

HRG

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I’m a fan of disconnects in general and I’ve used the Atwood and Blue Sea brands, both are fine. In a marine use where there are multiple batteries, I like the A / B / A+B option so you can route power around to make up for a dead battery.

However… Gino, I agree with the others. Figure out what’s going on with that motor and fix it before you burn something down.

I know what Iowaboy is probably thinking on this one so if you haven’t pulled the flywheel, you haven’t really looked for the problem.

Here are some other simple tests you can do:

– Check any inline fuses. DO NOT REPLACE A BLOWN FUSE ON THIS ENGINE. This only indicates where the problem might be. Again, DO NOT replace the fuse unless you fix whatever problem caused the fuse to blow in the first place. And then continue to disconnect the battery until you are sure.

– Test with a multi-meter with the engine running (in water or on a hose) to see if the stator is producing a charge. Measure nominal voltage first (should be about 12.5 +/- but measure first). Then start the engine. Look for a voltage increase to indicate the stator is charging. If NO increase, you’ve burned out something in the stator or related wiring. Iowaboy can probably provide the voltage increase you should see on this engine, but IMO you should see at least 13 volts.

– I’m not going to go into detail with this last one, but if you know how, test for dead short/parasitic draw with a test light and amperage meter. Again, DO NOT leave the outboard hooked up for any period of time and left unattended.

My primary suspect is the stator and I’d bet if you test it you find it’s not working. Mechanic time.

I’ll pull the flywheel off to check the stater out. Still think I will add a cutoff switch. This motor is running fine and it was charging the battery last time I ran it, I do believe I had 13 volts on my volt meter.

The switch is a good idea, but I’d still want to know what the problem is. There’s nothing in an outboard that just kind of gives off a burning smell under normal operation.

With the stator, you need to test before running and then running to know for sure if your stator is working. Depending on your battery and test conditions, a battery could have 13 volts nominal. It’s the difference that we’re looking for.

Then check for a parasitic load (short to ground) if you can.

Any manual circuit breaker. Not an auto resetting, but anything with a switch that the circuit breaker is large enough to handle. I do not mean a circuit breaker designed for your fuse panel at home, but they work in the same manner.

More questions. Was the motor running when it started smoking? If so did you have water hooked up and flowing through the cooling system? Sorry if you think these are dumb questions. But important in even beginning to narrow down questions. Is motor carborated? EFI? DI? 4 Stroke? Any chance mice got into your motor and chewed or urinated on wiring? Look for nests in the carb barrels or weird organic material, grass, trigs, insulation, pet food, poop pellets, Frayed or chewed wires. After knowing this, I can go forward, maybe.