Make your own weights

  • Charlie Vaughan
    On the river
    Posts: 190
    #1954708

    I am going to start making my own weights and jigs this summer. What would the fine Cat and Sturgeon fisherman of IDO recommend to help that go as well as possible?

    Brian Klawitter
    Keymaster
    Minnesota/Wisconsin Mississippi River
    Posts: 59944
    #1975270

    Stay well ventilated when melting. I know some of us melt the lead outside the first time and pour it into the more manageable mini muffin pans.

    The rods that create the hole in no role sinkers are welding rods. Or in my case I use size 14 copper wire. Much less expensive then welding rods or buying the rods from a retail outlet.

    FishBlood&RiverMud
    Prescott
    Posts: 6689
    #1975272

    I don’t/wont use no-rolls.
    I prefer FLAT bank sinkers – nothing weighing more than 2 ounces is sliding on my line! Besides, if i need to go over 2 ounces i am probably trying to get my weight to HOLD bottom. Bank sinkers accel at that. Not to mention the biggest factor for not putting the fishing line through the weight is if the weight snags you loose everything and number two is changing weights quickly to different sizes isn’t that quick. With exception of sinkers under 2 oz every weight i attach has a zip tie in the weight hole and attaches to a cheap wimpy snap that runs on the actual fishing line. Either the snap opens or the small zip tie breaks – either way – all fishing knots and terminal tackle are still attached. Lastly, big weights attached to your line/rods during any transport beat the snot outta your rods. So you can remove weight in an instant prior to travel and your rods will thank you!

    I have the molds for 2oz up to 8oz FLAT bank sinkers.
    If your not ready for the investment of a bottom pour pot, these pour great with a ladle also.

    Regarding jigs -if for flatheads i use a round sinker (Do-It Ear Ball Lure Jig) 2 oz up to 8 oz.
    These are also the weights i’ll use if i’m ok with my weight sliding around with the current (similar to no-roll in a sense, i’ll pitch to a 45 degree angle and let the current sweep it across the fish). Also the weight i use for back bouncing (like the blue cat guys do). So i’ll mold them with 1 or two eyelets depending on the purpose and if i use two eyes there’s a swivel to attach the hook on one of the eyes.

    If you were talking walleye jigs. I use Do-It Tear Drop molds but i modified my jigs to accpet 5/0 hooks for all sizes from the smallest up to 1-1/2 oz. The biggest the mold will accept is 4/0 and that’s only on the largest cavities. I do it on 1/8 oz on up. Also modify my hooks for better hook-ups on roof mouthed fish.

    Charlie, if you have a bunch of lead, i can certainly help you one day mold a bunch with my molds and such, or can borrow the gear also.

    Always wear safety glasses, pants, and long sleeves also suggested. Never get your mold wet – you can basically get a lead explosion if you pour lead into a wet mold.

    WELL ventilated area an absolute!!!!!
    Calm days outside when i’m melting rough lead scrap i’ll run a fan also. I do all my molding in the house with a bottom pour, but i have a fume hood pumping the air outside.

    Charlie, making my own weights some 10 years ago was the best investment I’ve made in fishing equipment. Buying weights is just crazy expensive. Good think your considering this!

    Also, i won’t own a mold with a thru hole like the no-roll. Pulling a wire out of the mold is no treat!!
    Under 2 oz i tend to use cheap round through hole weights – actually people give me these in exchange for other weights (i have a pail of em) and i just don’t melt them down.

    Lemme know of any questions bud. TackleUnderground has some good pages regarding lead lure making for safety and general operational procedures, but again I’d offer a sinker session in Prescott if you want bud or short term usage of the gear.

    Karry Kyllo
    Posts: 1141
    #1975374

    Maybe it depends on where you fish or what you fish for. I’ve fished the Red River for channel cats for quite a while and 2 oz. to 4 oz. no-rolls made in a do-it mold are my favorite weights. I run the line through them and have never considered it a problem.

    dirk-w.
    Minnesota
    Posts: 477
    #1975392

    I think Fishblood may be a cut bait only guy, possibly contributing to his weights being no more than two ounces. If your using live bait that is chub size or smaller two oz. is fine. For large suckers and medium to large bullheads I’d stick with 3-4 oz. weights in general. It will help keep your bait from getting hung on debri or branches. Current, bait size, and where you’re plunking down your baits will all be variables in your weight selections, IMO.

    FishBlood&RiverMud
    Prescott
    Posts: 6689
    #1975958

    I think Fishblood may be a cut bait only guy, possibly contributing to his weights being no more than two ounces. If your using live bait that is chub size or smaller two oz. is fine. For large suckers and medium to large bullheads I’d stick with 3-4 oz. weights in general. It will help keep your bait from getting hung on debri or branches. Current, bait size, and where you’re plunking down your baits will all be variables in your weight selections, IMO.

    Huh?
    90% of the time i’m 4oz or better. I stop at 8oz. Even have jig up to 8 oz. There are times for 2oz or smaller though and i mentioned i’ll allow those to slide on line but not greater than 2oz sliding on line – too hard on rods and too hard to change out and if i need more than 2 oz i don’t choose sinkers that move easily on the bottom – like no-rolls do. Typically sturgeon i’ll run 2oz or less. Flatheads or channel cats i’m 4oz or greater.

    I do like cut bait, but you’d probably find i fish bigger baits than most and i like my current too.

    Charlie Vaughan
    On the river
    Posts: 190
    #1977620

    Thank you all all for the input. My first go of it went pretty well.

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    eyekatcher
    Lakeville, MN
    Posts: 890
    #1977634

    I run a folded paper clip wire through the no roll sinker creating a loop at the top to run the line through and just bend the two ends out at the bottom of the weight so it won’t snag.

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