Bow Mount Bracket for 14ft Lund

  • suzuki
    Woodbury, Mn
    Posts: 18075
    #1307387

    I have an old 14 ft Aluminum Lund with open bow. There is a small metal support piece bolted to the very front to secure the transom and give a hand hold as well as house bow light socket. I need a way to mount a Minnkota bow mount motor. I have the quick release bracket so i would be mounting the base of the quick release. I can see that I need a platform to mount on that will attach to gunnels . Probably one that replaces current structure support. Is such an item sold or must I go to a metal fabrictor to have someing cusotmer made?

    trumar
    Rochester, Mn
    Posts: 5967
    #971136

    I wish you were closer I have a guy that has done several aluminum bow platforms in open bow boats.

    A good metal fab shop should be able to construct and install one for you.

    Let us know if you got one made or how you mounted your quick plate

    Chris
    Rochester, MN
    Posts: 1396
    #971144

    Maybe I’m having difficulty envisioning your boat but can’t you form a piece of 3/4″ plywood to cover the front part of your boat’s gun wale and fasten that in order to install the motor plate? I did this on an older open bow Lund – as well as building a front casting deck – and it worked very well for the same application. It may be a less expensive route too.

    outdoors4life
    Stillwater, MN
    Posts: 1500
    #971147

    Quote:


    Maybe I’m having difficulty envisioning your boat but can’t you form a piece of 3/4″ plywood to cover the front part of your boat’s gun wale and fasten that in order to install the motor plate? I did this on an older open bow Lund – as well as building a front casting deck – and it worked very well for the same application. It may be a less expensive route too.


    THis was my first thought also

    stuwest
    Elmwood, WI
    Posts: 2254
    #971161

    a wooden platform was my idea also. i’d cut a piece of 3/4 green plywood and bolt it thru the transom in three places. should work.

    suzuki
    Woodbury, Mn
    Posts: 18075
    #971193

    Wood was my first thought but asthetically aluminum would look better and the current metal support up there is in the way. I really need one piece to do it all including supporting the bow ligth. Rochester might not be too far. I would appreciate having that number while I look around for a local metal fabricator. Thanks all.

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11702
    #971203

    Is this similar to the metal piece your boat has on it’s nose?

    suzuki
    Woodbury, Mn
    Posts: 18075
    #971215

    Absolutely identical except my bow light is not fixed. There’s a socket there for a small light pole.

    Chris
    Rochester, MN
    Posts: 1396
    #971235

    Other than 14′ vs 16′ that is basically the boat I did my work too as well. I carpeted the plywood I cut and butted it up to the handle piece and it looked pretty nice. It was nice to have the handle piece as a leverage point to pull the boat on shore. I mounted the trolling motor battery on the very front seat and enclosed the area, including a hatch, towards the back of the boat. So the handle also added additional ventilation when charging the battery.

    Not trying to sway your opinion…just offering my experience.

    suzuki
    Woodbury, Mn
    Posts: 18075
    #971243

    How did you fasten wood to the gunnel? I ask because gunnel is so thin. I noticed the gunnel has a cavity that could work to run/hide the power cable if I can get a fish tape to pull it through. Opinion?

    stuwest
    Elmwood, WI
    Posts: 2254
    #971248

    Use 1/4″ SS bolts, fender washers and nylon lock nuts. Counter sink the tops.

    Chris
    Rochester, MN
    Posts: 1396
    #971252

    Maybe my gunnel was thicker than what is on your boat but it wasn’t an issue on my boat. Mine was a 1978 Lund S-16 and I wouldn’t think the gunnel thickness would vary that much. I drilled through the plywood and gunnel and fastened it with stainless screws – 4-5 each side. I would periodically check for tightness of those screws too but didn’t have any problems. I also used the hollow gunnel to run wire to the back for a bilge and nav light. Had to take the nose and back corner piece off but there were only a few screws holding them in place. I only ran one battery because I used a Vexilar with summer kit so intereference from the trolling motor on a stationary graph wasn’t a worry I had.

    That boat has since gone down the road but maybe I can find some pictures of it and post them.

    Chris
    Rochester, MN
    Posts: 1396
    #971253

    Quote:


    Use 1/4″ SS bolts, fender washers and nylon lock nuts. Counter sink the tops.


    It would be impossible to use bolts with the gunnel on his boat I think.

    deertracker
    Posts: 8965
    #971704

    What about self tapping bolts? I thought about that for mine.
    DT

    suzuki
    Woodbury, Mn
    Posts: 18075
    #974562

    Here’s how it turned out thanks to a good friend.
    The small water bassin assasin is ready for action.


    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11702
    #974597

    Looks great Thanks for showing the finished product

    deertracker
    Posts: 8965
    #974766

    Very nice. How thick is the aluminum plate?
    DT

    suzuki
    Woodbury, Mn
    Posts: 18075
    #974791

    I dont know.

Viewing 18 posts - 1 through 18 (of 18 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.