Boat Floor Repair

  • has
    Hudson, WI
    Posts: 397
    March 30, 2011 at 4:28 pm #1271536

    Looking to replace the floor on my 1891SC Warrior. Anyone have any tips/tricks they would like to share?

    Also, is there any place in the Twin Cities, Western, WI, Red Wing, that stock 3/4 or 5/8 Marine Plywood?

    mark_johnson
    St. Croix River
    Posts: 940
    March 30, 2011 at 4:43 pm #952242

    Hey Erik, I replaced the floor on our old Lund a while back. I would suggest spending the extra money to buy marine plywood larger than 4×8 if needed to eliminate as many seems as possible. And then buy good carpet with the best marine adhesive possible. I’d be glad to help if you supply the beers

    ps:How many sheephead does it take to ruin the floor in a boat?

    has
    Hudson, WI
    Posts: 397
    March 30, 2011 at 4:57 pm #952249

    Where in the HECK do I get plywood larger than 4×8?? Fridge is full of , your welcome to as many as you can handle and not loose and digits…

    P.s. Not sure what a sheaphead is.. The Warrior has never had a “Rough Fish” in her.. Must be rotten form all the my passengers spill..

    Steve Plantz
    SE MN
    Posts: 12240
    March 30, 2011 at 5:18 pm #952253

    Hi Erik
    I had Schoenmann Boat Works in Rochester install my new floor for me, they put a fiberglass wrap on the floor, this is something they do on all the new floors they install. Who ever you have do your floor I would highly recomend that you find out first if they can do a fiberglass wrap. If boat companies would do this in the first place we would never have the problem of floors rotting out. I would highly recommend Schoenmann Boat Works to anyone they do phenomenal work and have been in business for over 25 years. Dustin had his floor redone a year or two ago by someone in the Redwing area I think and he was very happy with them also but I do not know if they do the fiberglass wrap.

    Here are some past threads on this very topic.

    Adding a floor to a 14′ Lund Aluminum Boat

    Rotten Boat Floor

    freedomrock
    Posts: 75
    March 30, 2011 at 6:44 pm #952273

    These guys have a standing add in the Outdoor News for Marine Plywood. 952.446.9611 I believe they are near Waconia. The wood is spendy! After much debate, I ended up using green treated for mine. Marine Carpet from home depot(online).

    Depends on how your boat is constructed but mine was a big job. Im not so sure I would do it again as opposed to paying someone. Granted, I replaced all my wood (bow platform, locker, live well covers, etc…) Hopefully your floor is one piece and nothing on top of it. I had to remove live well, rod locker and console to replace mine. Good luck!

    mwal
    Rosemount,MN
    Posts: 1040
    March 30, 2011 at 7:35 pm #952286

    Keep a close watch on your floor with the green treated. When I did my floor 10 years ago I was told not to use green treated as the treatment can have a reaction with aluminum and eat holes in it. I never verified it but don’t doubt it otherwise boat manufacturers would use it over marine as its cheaper..”This is correct. The newer treated wood (new within the last few years) will eat up aluminum, I’ve seen it happen with flashings where decks are tied to homes. Local building codes won’t allow aluminum flashing near the new treated wood. You must also use the correct nails/screws made specifically for treated wood.

    I used some regular screws on a deck that I built on our camper last year, had to pull some of the deck boards up to run a water line this year…the screws wouldn’t back out because there was nothing left of them below the head…that’s within a year!”

    Mwal

    joshbjork
    Center of Iowa
    Posts: 727
    March 30, 2011 at 8:08 pm #952294

    The label marine plywood does not mean rot resistant. If it is real marine plywood it would have no voids and have waterproof glue.

    Steve Plantz
    SE MN
    Posts: 12240
    March 30, 2011 at 11:32 pm #952361

    Quote:

    Keep a close watch on your floor with the green treated. When I did my floor 10 years ago I was told not to use green treated as the treatment can have a reaction with aluminum and eat holes in it.

    Yes that is correct DO NOT USE GREEN TREATED PLYWOOD!!! as it will have a reaction with aluminum and it will eat holes in it. Even if you use marine grade plywood you will still want to get the fiberglass wrap.

    gregory
    Red wing,mn
    Posts: 1588
    March 31, 2011 at 3:10 am #952433

    I Did my floor in my Tuffy a couple years ago and i special ordered a sheet of 4×10 ac cdx, no voids and extior glue, was around 100 bucks, i then cut it to fit and bored holes for seats and drain and then used a two part fiberglass resin on both sides and around all the holes, then what you should do is put the plywood in and then where the floor meets the edge of the boat wrap fiber glass matting about 12″ wide across the seem between floor and gunal”spl? and resin that down and let sit and dry and your good to go, i can send some pics of my if you would like..

    bzzsaw
    Hudson, Wi
    Posts: 3434
    March 31, 2011 at 1:38 pm #952535

    Has,
    Bring it to Borderline in a couple weeks for the pre-opener. We could work on it in the parking lot and have the volleyball girls deliver beers.

    gregory
    Red wing,mn
    Posts: 1588
    March 31, 2011 at 10:04 pm #952738

    i’ll try to find them here and send them out to you.

    Jaya
    Zimmerman, MN
    Posts: 174
    March 31, 2011 at 11:39 pm #952767

    what if you poly the treated wood. wouldnt that seal the chemicals into the wood.

    ggoody
    Mpls MN
    Posts: 2603
    April 1, 2011 at 8:28 am #952847

    From the sounds of it today’s treated lumber isn’t as bad as it use to be on Aluminum. Sealing it would help immensely.

    A lot people that don’t want to pay for the Marine grade go with construction grade plywood and seal it with spar varnish.

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