So on my last outing I noticed that my running lights did not work to my boat trailer. Blinkers did. So I hooked up my boat trailer to my other auto and everything was fine. So I narrowed it down to my truck and not the trailer. Fuse I thought. Checked all the fuses and none were burnt out. I am at the point where I will be spending money. Is this something that will most likely take a mechanic or is there another step that the average joe could do. My truck is a 2000 Ford Ranger. Thanks – Boogs
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Trailer light help
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John SchultzInactivePortage, WIPosts: 3309October 3, 2013 at 9:09 pm #1198330
Did you test the plug receptacle on your truck to make sure you had juice? Did you also check the fuse typically found under the hood of the truck that is specific to trailer marker lights? Those would be the first two things I would check. If it wasn’t either of those, I would find an electrician or mechanic buddy with spare time and make him fix it.
October 3, 2013 at 9:13 pm #1198332I used this guy on the truck. The tail light indicator never came on. I did go thru my manual and checked the fuses… then I checked all of them. 5 times over… I’m weird like that.
http://www.harborfreight.com/four-way-trailer-light-tester-66526.html
John SchultzInactivePortage, WIPosts: 3309October 3, 2013 at 9:27 pm #1198337On a Ford F-150, there is a 10 amp fuse in the main fuse box that controls the running/marker lights for the trailer. Sometimes, when it is blown, you can’t tell by looking at it. Trust me on that one.
Test the wires coming into the receptacle and see if you have power in the wires. Power in the wire but not in the plug and I would replace the receptacle.
October 3, 2013 at 9:27 pm #1198338This may not help you problem, but I was having similar problems with about every trailer I own when hooked to the ’03 Yukon I had. I drilled a small hole in my bumper, attached a short wire with a male plug on it and then plugged that to a female plug with a battery charger clamp that attached to the hitch on my boat or whatever trailer I was using. Simple and cured all of my problems. This may not help you, but it’s sure an easy way to make sure you are grounded.
October 3, 2013 at 9:30 pm #1198339BAM! Thanks everyone. I replaced all the fuses inside the cab and under the hood that were light related and it now works!!!! They all looked perfectly fine. Thanks IDO member SHOCKERS for the tip.
October 4, 2013 at 2:02 pm #1198442For future reference, whenever your chasing a problem that might involve fuses, use a multi-meter to test each one of them as you pull them out.
If you don’t already have a multi-meter, buy one because as long as you have trailer lights, you’re gonna need one. It’s incredibly useful to get one with the audible tone for a continuity check, so the meter beeps where there’s continuity and that way you don’t have to look down at the meter needle every time and can keep your eyes on what you’re doing.
I’ve had exactly the same thing happen where the fuse looked good, but was blown or cracked where it wasn’t visible. The multi-meter testing is way faster than trial/error replacing.
Grouse
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