What Urethane to use on the kitchen table ?

I need to sand down the kitchen table top and refinish.. Should I be using a specific urathane for the top ?

thanks in advance !!

I like WaterLox brand Tung oil for most of my wood finishes. What is nice is that if you want to refinish again or touchup you don’t have to strip it all off. Just clean it well, lightly sand, and reapply.

Any poly water based type is good, I personally like Minwax. Poly means plastic, oil means oil based and its like or is organic varnish. Sand and wipe off the tack from sanding with a damp rag, not a wet one because that raises the grain and fibres. Apply the first coat evenly and let dry. Sand off roughness that comes from the fibres swelling and any dust you may not have gotten off. Wipe down with damp cloth again and recoat, 2 too 3 coats will be suffecient and look nice too. Maybe take it to the local paint dealer and have them tint it for you and you’ll have a finish thats another color other then clear, another idea. A quart will go along ways. Sand with 120 to 150 grit between coats.

I’ve used this stuff on kitchen table and bar top and bar table at the cabin. Also on coffee tables and end tables. It seems to be really durable. I’ve shaken quite a few dice on the tables and bar and it doesn’t show much wear. I think they sell it at Menards and Home Depot. You just need to make sure and follow the instructions and get the bubbles out.

Envirotex

Before you seal with poly, use a nice sanding sealer like zinssar seal coat, will make your wood look very nice and creates a nice surface for your final coats of poly.

Bzzsaw, what is the name of the product you used?

I like Danish Oil for furniture projects. When I do tables as you are I like the minwax poly-products. On tables where you will be sliding dishes and just normal use go with a gloss or high-gloss finish. The higher the gloss the stronger the resistance to wear and tear. Stain or color the wood and let it sit over night before applying finish. I DO NOT like the minwax poly-shade products, it’s difficult to maintain even color on large surface areas.

Good Luck with your project. Enjoy the creativity.

get the clear epoxy stuff that makes your dining room table look like the local bartop

self leveling!!

Any water based “poly” is going to show hazy rings from wet items on the table.

Any issues with a hot kitchen plate.. just a normal kitchen plate with hot food on it..heat transfer to the table top..

any concerns here ?

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Bzzsaw, what is the name of the product you used?

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The name is Envirotex. It is a 2 part epoxy. You mix it up with a paint stick and pour it on. It take a couple hours to setup. You need to baby sit is while it sets. It is self leveling and only takes 1 coat. I put a good coat of sanding seal on first. You just need to make sure the bubbles pop before it sets. I also put them on my steps.

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get the clear epoxy stuff that makes your dining room table look like the local bartop

self leveling!!

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Nhamm, That is the stuff I’ve used. I’m very please with it.

Here are some pictures of what I’ve done at the cabin. They include: kitchen table, coffee table, theshholds, steps and bar. Let me know if you have any questions or want any tips. I’ve definitely learned a few tips with each project.

Thanks for the response BZZSAW. Alsow thanks to all for the great comments. Given the extended ice-out time, we are looking to do this project at the kitchen table in one of our rental cabins on the TFF. Now we need to find the products in the Northwoods of WI.

Not that I’ve ever heard of when it comes to heat. The water rings will evaporate if they appear and it has to be prolonged wetness to get it to that point. Ya stay away from poly shades if the wood is soft or has soft spots in it, it tends to end up being a darker color in the soft spots and will end up streaking. Don’t use a wood stabelizer befor you coat, you can tell it was a two coat process and the color will lay on the surface and streak even more. If your particular hand stain with a soft cloth and rub excess off witin a short time or you’ll get areas where it looks like theres more stain then other areas. Once you start go from narrow end down the length of the table, try not to let the stain overlap if theres an edge or you’ll get two coats of stain on that lap. If its water based have a wet rag to rub those spots out, if its an oil have some mineral spirits to do the same. If its an alcohol based product have a wet rag with that in it too, all of these choices is to blend and even the color.

When I paint a door, lets say oil from Benjamin Moore, I start at the upper left corner and paint across and down evenly until I end up at the lower right corner, doing this elimantes laps and it will do the same on your table, square, rectangle or round. Spend a little money and buy a good brush, it very much worth it. If you buy a cheap brush it will put the coating on very uneven and it won’t lay flat and consistent, especdially if its a semi or high gloss that shows everything. I’ve got a $250 Binks quart spray gun, the top of the line and can’t buy a better one, just for clear coats because of the reflective glossing effect.

First of all i must say your kitchen is amazing i liked the color of your kitchen cabinets. I had used WaterLox brand Tung oil. They look really good.