Sufix 832 Advanced Lead Core Line Review

  • Brad Juaire
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 6101
    #1278694

    Over the weekend I had a chance to do some open water trolling on Mille Lacs with the new Sufix 832 Advanced Lead Core Line and I was very impressed with the results. It played a big reason in our success and we were able to put some walleyes in the net. Over the course of two days, we caught over 40 walleyes during a very tough late summer bite. We trolled 4 lines at a time and on Sunday we spent the majority of our time trolling 4 lead core lines – 2 lines with regular lead core and the other 2 lines with the new 832 Advanced Lead Core line both long lining and on planer boards. The new 832 lead core line caught the majority of our fish even though we were using the same crankbaits and colors trolled at the same depths. I will try and go into greater detail for the reasons why.

    Let’s first talk about the changes. The engineers at Sufix exchanged out the exterior polyester sheath with the same Dyneema fibers used in making the 832 Advanced Superline. This weave is a lot tighter and thus resulting in a 70% increase in line strength, it dives 30% deeper and it has a lot more sensitivity.

    Increase In Line Strength: This allows an angler to downsize to the 12 lb. test versus using the traditional 18 lb. test and not have to sacrifice line strength. The line density amongst these two lines is smaller (.55 mm versus .63 mm) and because of this you receive many benefits.

    More Sensitivity: If you’ve fished Mille Lacs in August, you’ve probably noticed that there’s lots of weeds floating around out there even in the open basin and many of them end up getting tangled on your hooks. This leads to down time in not knowing that your crankbait is fouled up. Due to the increase in sensitivity in this new lead core line, I decided to attach 50’ braided leaders (20 lb test / 6 lb diameter) versus mono or fluorocarbon leaders to maximize the sensitivity effect. Mono or fluorocarbon leaders will stretch and you will lose some of that sensitivity. The end result it’s a lot easier to detect debris on your 832 Advanced Lead Core line and you can see if your crankbait is swimming properly by looking at the vibration of your rod tip. It acts very similar as if you were trolling with braided line.

    Dives Deeper: The general rule of thumb when trolling traditional lead core line is that you achieve about 5 feet of depth for every color (30 feet) when trolling at 2.0 m.p.h. The Sufix 832 Advanced Lead Core dives about 30% more and the end result is you achieve about 7 feet per color. One advantage of that is you simply need to put out less line to achieve your desired depth.

    Works Better on Planer Boards: Over the weekend I did some experimenting clipping this new lead core line directly to a planer board to see how it would differ from the traditional lead core line. What I noticed right away is that I could put this line out much further on a planer board than the regular lead core line. The reason for this is the exterior of the Sufix 832 Advanced Lead Core absorbs less water which means it weighs less out of the water once it gets wet. The significance of this is you can clip it on your planer board and place it further away from your boat and without having that sag in your line between your planer board and your rod tip. The reason this is important is because you don’t want the waves pulling on your lead core line in front of your planer board which causes your planer boards to surge back and forth and then it affects the swimming action of your crankbait below. I also examined the line for damage and didn’t see any negative effects by using the custom OR-18 adjustable tension releases. Net result is no need to move to a segmented lead core presentation while using a planer board which locks you into that depth. That’s a big benefit and you can now adjust your depth accordingly.

    Less Lift: Another benefit of this line absorbing less water is it has a reduced resistance which lessons the lift. Trolling with traditional lead core line is very speed sensitive. The faster you troll – the higher your line will lift and vice versa. The slower you troll – the more your line will sink. A bow in your line forms under the water when you troll with traditional lead core, and your line kind of snakes around back there as your boat turns left and right and as it moves up and down in the waves. The benefit of less lift is that you are able to better maintain your depth control and it’s not as speed sensitive. Simply put, you’ll be able to place your crankbait in the strike zone more consistently. The other benefit of less left is that your leader depth curve of your crankbait will be more accurate. When trolling the traditional lead core line, I usually factor 20% less of that depth curve for my leader because of the lift. Since the lift is less in the 832 lead core line, you no longer have to adjust.

    You Can Spool It On Smaller Reels: The last benefit on this smaller diameter lead core line is that you can spool it on smaller reels and still be able to get on 4 or 5 colors. This is nice and if you have a couple of smaller reels lying around and you don’t have to go out and buy an oversized reel just to spool up a few colors. This also means that your rod doesn’t need to have such a stiff bank either to absorb the weight of your lead core line. Instead of spooling up 6 colors of the old leadcore line to achieve a depth of 30 feet, you now only have to spool up approximately 4 colors.

    Spooks Less Fish: This line also has a greater resistance to UV rays and sunlight which means it will most likely spook less fish. Another benefit that’s extremely important when trolling in an open water presentation.

    Contour Trolling: I also feel the Sufix 832 Advanced Lead Core line would be ideal for contour trolling. The advantage of using lead core line when you are trolling various depths is that it rounds better than braid or mono and it follows the path of your boat. Braided line and mono line will cut corners and the end result is that you lose control of your depth. The increase in sensitivity will allow you to feel the structure and detect any debris. Having less line out is another advantage when contour trolling. It takes out a lot of the guesswork when trying to time your turns and making those speed adjustments.

    It’s great to see some advancement in lead core line which has been around for many years and really hasn’t changed that much until this new Sufix Advanced Performance 832 line. We were catching all of these walleyes with only 2 colors of lead core out and a 50’ braided leader using Storm Deep Thundersticks in blue/chrome/orange (3.5” body) while trolling about 2.2 m.p.h in 33 feet of water.



    jeff_huberty
    Inactive
    Posts: 4941
    #1095521

    All right the temptation is over, I just picked up two TEK300 reels spooled with three colors of suffix 832 LC and a 50’leader.

    So with my simple math I think this will work up on LOW.

    If I use # 5 & # 7 shad raps, this should put me in the 25′-28′ fow range? I am thinking 100′-120′ out. Is there a lenghth point where this set up becomes disfunctional

    I can’t afford hanging with you guys

    Thanks again

    Joel Ballweg
    Sauk City, Wisconsin
    Posts: 3295
    #1095565

    Very interesting write up and review Brad!
    Very informative as well.
    Thanks for taking the time to do this report.

    eyesfishin
    Somerset, WI
    Posts: 370
    #1095628

    I’m kind of a rookie when it comes to leadcore but I agree the 832 from Sufix makes it a little easier. I too noticed that it stayed in the zone better even with speed adjustments. I was running 3-3 1/2 colors targeting suspended fish 25′ down in 33-35′ fow on Mille Lacs and did pretty well the first week of August. I’m running the 12# with 10′ fluro leaders. Team this combo up with the Jolly Roger Tackle shads in Seyka Perch or Baby Walleye like I pulled and you have yourself a sweet setup.

    dentedboatguy
    Posts: 43
    #1095665

    I have always used the willis knot to attach the lead to the mono. The sheath on the Suffix Advanced lead core however makes using the willis knot next to impossible. When I tried I found the sheath would collapse and not let me thread the mono up the lead core sheath. After working about an hour I finally got a passable willis knot done but the mono pulled out of the lead core. Any ideas on how I could attach the mono to lead core? I known I can use small swivels but I don’t like to run swivels though the guides.

    Denny O
    Central IOWA
    Posts: 5719
    #1095667

    Where did you find the brand new “Advanced” for sale at?

    Brad Juaire
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 6101
    #1095704

    Quote:


    I have always used the willis knot to attach the lead to the mono. The sheath on the Suffix Advanced lead core however makes using the willis knot next to impossible. When I tried I found the sheath would collapse and not let me thread the mono up the lead core sheath. After working about an hour I finally got a passable willis knot done but the mono pulled out of the lead core. Any ideas on how I could attach the mono to lead core? I known I can use small swivels but I don’t like to run swivels though the guides.


    The best knot to tie your backing or leader to the new 832 Advanced Lead Core is to use a Blood Knot

    Brad Juaire
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 6101
    #1095708

    Quote:


    So with my simple math I think this will work up on LOW.

    If I use # 5 & # 7 shad raps, this should put me in the 25′-28′ fow range? I am thinking 100′-120′ out. Is there a lenghth point where this set up becomes disfunctional


    It depends on how long your leader is and if you’re using mono or braid leader.

    Here’s the math:

    Total Depth Desired – Leader Depth Curve For Your Crankbait = # of 832 Lead Core Colors (7 feet per color trolling at 2.0 mph)

    For example if you want to achieve a depth of 28 feet and your leader depth curve is 14 feet you need to put out 2 colors or 60 feet of the 832 Lead Core: 28 – 14 = 2 colors (60 feet)

    Brad Juaire
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 6101
    #1095709

    Quote:


    Where did you find the brand new “Advanced” for sale at?


    I bought mine at Cabelas and you can order it online through them or Bass Pro Shops.

    Denny O
    Central IOWA
    Posts: 5719
    #1095713

    Thanks Brad! Scheels did not have it, (Manager said it was unavailable to him yet.) BPS did not have a slot for it on their shelf, I should have asked the staff.

    James Holst
    Keymaster
    SE Minnesota
    Posts: 18924
    #1095722

    Quote:


    Thanks Brad! Scheels did not have it, (Manager said it was unavailable to him yet.) BPS did not have a slot for it on their shelf, I should have asked the staff.


    The only place I’ve seen it in store is at Cabelas.

    jeff_huberty
    Inactive
    Posts: 4941
    #1095735

    Quote:


    Quote:


    So with my simple math I think this will work up on LOW.

    If I use # 5 & # 7 shad raps, this should put me in the 25′-28′ fow range? I am thinking 100′-120′ out. Is there a lenghth point where this set up becomes disfunctional


    It depends on how long your leader is and if you’re using mono or braid leader.

    Here’s the math:

    Total Depth Desired – Leader Depth Curve For Your Crankbait = # of 832 Lead Core Colors (7 feet per color trolling at 2.0 mph)

    For example if you want to achieve a depth of 28 feet and your leader depth curve is 14 feet you need to put out 2 colors or 60 feet of the 832 Lead Core: 28 – 14 = 2 colors (60 feet)


    I am going to try running a 3 color segmented Rig, so I am ssuming a 21 foot depth with the 832 lead core, and I will choose my crank baits to hit my desire depth.

    This brings me too another question using segmented LC line.
    Will the line achieve a greater depth than 7 foot per color, because of the fact that the wieght of the line will be suspended in the water and not tethered to your reel.
    If I had a full reel of lead core line it would be anchored to a stasionary rig, so to speak.

    My thinking is if I was to leave out additional line passed the segmented colors it would then sink further?

    Thanks for your response Brad

    Brad Juaire
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 6101
    #1095742

    It will dive the same whether you’re clipping your line to your planer board or just long lining it out the back.

    You can also achieve some additional depth by letting out more backing between your lead core and your planer board.

    Fife
    Ramsey, MN
    Posts: 3998
    #1095776

    Jeff, why would you want to just run 3 colors on a setup? It seems like you would really limit yourself. I think you mentioned that you are going to Lake of the Woods and from my experience we have needed to get the baits to 32-33 feet in order to catch fish. The spools come with either 10 or 20 colors, so when I buy a spool I plan to put 5 colors on each reel. That will get me way deeper than I ever need to go and from the sounds of it the line can be clipped to a planer board.

    Thanks for all of the info Brad. I’m kind of curious to hear what some people think about this line for river fishing applications.

    jeff_huberty
    Inactive
    Posts: 4941
    #1095792

    #1 reason is to make it more ladie friendly, I also have a couple full spools of LC to use.
    My wife just does not like the heavy gear when she is fishing.
    I thought with this new 832 I might be able to target 30′ and still keep it light.

    Beaver E
    Posts: 137
    #1095795

    The only place I’ve seen it in store is at Cabelas.


    Gander mountain in mankato has it.

    Joel Ballweg
    Sauk City, Wisconsin
    Posts: 3295
    #1095803

    Quote:


    The best knot to tie your backing or leader to the new 832 Advanced Lead Core is to use a Blood Knot


    Brad,
    Do you remove the lead from the last few inches of line before tying a blood knot or is that no longer necessary with Suffix 832 lead core?

    Brad Juaire
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 6101
    #1095806

    Quote:


    Quote:


    The best knot to tie your backing or leader to the new 832 Advanced Lead Core is to use a Blood Knot


    Brad,
    Do you remove the lead from the last few inches of line before tying a blood knot or is that no longer necessary with Suffix 832 lead core?


    I removed the lead.

    Will Roseberg
    Moderator
    Hanover, MN
    Posts: 2121
    #1095826

    Quote:


    Quote:


    Thanks Brad! Scheels did not have it, (Manager said it was unavailable to him yet.) BPS did not have a slot for it on their shelf, I should have asked the staff.


    The only place I’ve seen it in store is at Cabelas.


    Thorne Bros had it in stock two weeks ago when I was there

    Will Roseberg
    Moderator
    Hanover, MN
    Posts: 2121
    #1095846

    Quote:


    Quote:


    I have always used the willis knot to attach the lead to the mono. The sheath on the Suffix Advanced lead core however makes using the willis knot next to impossible. When I tried I found the sheath would collapse and not let me thread the mono up the lead core sheath. After working about an hour I finally got a passable willis knot done but the mono pulled out of the lead core. Any ideas on how I could attach the mono to lead core? I known I can use small swivels but I don’t like to run swivels though the guides.


    The best knot to tie your backing or leader to the new 832 Advanced Lead Core is to use a Blood Knot


    X2 on the bloodknot as a good choice. Here are 2 other options and why you may like them

    Red Phillips Knot – An alternative to the blood knot which in my experience this is as strong (if not stonger) but simpler which means less chance of failure due to a poorly tied knot

    Albright Knot – The blood knot or Red Phillips knots do not work well for very heavy leaders (30# flouro leader when Salmon fishing for example) The albright knot is ideal for tying leaders when the diameter of one side is much larger than the other

    James Holst
    Keymaster
    SE Minnesota
    Posts: 18924
    #1095941

    Quote:


    from the sounds of it the line can be clipped to a planer board.


    While I don’t want to take anything away from Brad’s info as it is spot on I do not recommend clipping boards to this or any other lead core line. It breaks the lead filament and even though the weave of the 832 sheath is much tighter the broken ends will poke through the sheath weakening the line.

    Quote:


    Thanks for all of the info Brad. I’m kind of curious to hear what some people think about this line for river fishing applications.


    Joel and I fished pool 2 last week and started the day pulling lead. Joel was using 18# lead (non-832). I was using 832 lead core. I was able to get much deeper than Joel could with his set-up using less line. The dive curve advantage carried over to the river in current, albeit light current, and I was getting 7.0 – 7.5 feet of depth per color.

    Brad Juaire
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 6101
    #1095999

    Quote:


    While I don’t want to take anything away from Brad’s info as it is spot on I do not recommend clipping boards to this or any other lead core line. It breaks the lead filament and even though the weave of the 832 sheath is much tighter the broken ends will poke through the sheath weakening the line.


    I saw no issues of that when I was using it but I only did it over the weekend. Another thing that I’ve done in the past (when using a segmented lead core application) that worked well was to splice in a 3 foot section of heavier mono line inbetween the lead core colors and attach that to the planer board. This allows you to add another color and not be locked into that one depth. For example – it would go crankbait, 50 foot leader, 2 colors of 832 advanced lead core, 3 foot splice of 15 lb mono, 1 color of 832 advanced lead core, mono backing to reel. This would give you the option of gaining an additional 7 feet and not have to clip your lead core line to your planer board.

    Fife
    Ramsey, MN
    Posts: 3998
    #1096005

    I appreciate the good discussion on here.

    I spend very little time fishing the river, but the reason I asked about river fishing was two fold. The first being because I know some river guys use thicker leadcore because it doesn’t sink as fast and therefore keeps the lure farther away from the boat. The other reason I ask is because traditional leadcore is so speed sensitive, its easy to just increase speed and raise the lures up when traveling over snaggy areas. Will the 832 still do that?

    I see the new 832 leadcore being a huge advantage though for detecting fouled lines.

    I rarely use planer boards with leadcore, so I have no first hand experience with the leadcore line breaking down. I talked to a couple friends that guide everyday and they often run leadcore on planer boards without segmenting the line. They have never mentioned that the line was breaking down or weakening. Is it something that happens over multiple times? For open water trolling applications with multiple lines I get why its advantageous to have segmented lines, but in MN where we can only have one line it just seems like a bad idea to limit yourself to only 3 colors of lead on a reel.

    Joel Ballweg
    Sauk City, Wisconsin
    Posts: 3295
    #1096021

    For those of us who fish with it all the time on Lake Michigan, clipping a planer board onto lead core line is a huge no-no.

    Granted, I’ve never used the new 832 lead core but it would be hard to believe that the lead inside the sheath is any different than every other lead core line out there.

    Simply put, the lead inside any lead core line is going to eventually wear out and need to be replace even if the sheath is still good.

    Why speed up the degradation of the lead in any one spot by clipping a board to it?

    For me, if I don’t absolutely have to clip a board to the lead core line, then I’m not going to.

    Why? For all the reason James already listed and because I don’t want to lose a big fish because I created a weak spot in my line by clipping a board to the lead core.

    James Holst
    Keymaster
    SE Minnesota
    Posts: 18924
    #1096032

    Quote:


    Quote:


    While I don’t want to take anything away from Brad’s info as it is spot on I do not recommend clipping boards to this or any other lead core line. It breaks the lead filament and even though the weave of the 832 sheath is much tighter the broken ends will poke through the sheath weakening the line.


    I saw no issues of that when I was using it but I only did it over the weekend.


    I didn’t spot anything right away either. Back in June when I was first experimenting with the 832 lead core, which I’ve come to absolutely love using, I had 5 colors on a rod I was using on Mille Lacs. I only needed 3 colors to get the bait where it needed to be and I wanted to run it on a board to spread out my presentations. That day I didn’t notice any issues. About 3 or 4 uses later I now have little lead core wires poking out through the sheath right in the area where color 3 meets color 4… and nowhere else.

    I knew better but I had to try it.

    James Holst
    Keymaster
    SE Minnesota
    Posts: 18924
    #1096036

    Quote:


    I appreciate the good discussion on here.

    I spend very little time fishing the river, but the reason I asked about river fishing was two fold. The first being because I know some river guys use thicker leadcore because it doesn’t sink as fast and therefore keeps the lure farther away from the boat. The other reason I ask is because traditional leadcore is so speed sensitive, its easy to just increase speed and raise the lures up when traveling over snaggy areas. Will the 832 still do that?


    I’m just guessing here but I would think that due to the thinner diameter the 832 won’t rise as fast as the old style lead core when you crank up the speed. I think that just comes down to line diameter and the resistance the line generates as it is pulled through the water but then I’ve not tried it to know for sure. Again, just speculation on my part. This 832 is such a different animal that it will be awhile before it has been well-tested in a wide range of situations. One thing I do know… the 832 works exactly as advertised. 70% stronger. 30% deeper.

    dentedboatguy
    Posts: 43
    #1096406

    The blood knot was a little hard on my 52 year old eyes and after a couple screw ups I got it. Looks like a very good knot, technically harder for me than the willis knot. Good gouge!

    Al Case
    Posts: 306
    #1096441

    Good discussion!
    When I cut off the wire and tie the knot with the braid to the leader, I find that the remaining wire end often sticks through the remaining braid. What is the cure for that?
    Thanks,
    Al

    jeff_huberty
    Inactive
    Posts: 4941
    #1097502

    Over the last week on LOW, we were trollong segmented Suffix LC 832, Three colors, trolling #5 & #7 rapalas annd flicker shads.

    We were consistantly able to achieve running our lures in the 28′-30′ fow range.

    I had one Tekota 300 reel rigged with a 50′ spider wire leader and the second reel rigged with a 20′ spider wire leader.

    We never had to fish any deeper than 32′ FOW, but with a 50′ leader and Three colors of Suffix 832 LC, I think I would have had no probem fishing in the 35′ range.

    My estimate is that with the new lead core line, I was getting more than 7′ per color, if my math and depth charts are correct I would assume it was closer to 8′.

    Denny O
    Central IOWA
    Posts: 5719
    #1097503

    12 or 18lb 832 advanced leadcore?

    Some of you guys got me worried about using the Willis knot on my 17lb Fluorocast by Stren leader tied to 832LC, should the new Advanced 832 be treated differently when attaching it to your backer and leader?

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