Livebait rigging catches walleyes everywhere the marble eye swims, but rigging requires practice like no other presentation. After going through three 500 count crawler flats so far this season, I’ve assembled a bit of this seasons practice to keep you in good livebait rigging form.
First the advantage of using a rig is the fact that the weight is not solidly attached to the line such as a split shot weight, rubber core sinker, or a three way river rig. Any style of slip weight used for rigging has a small hole that allows line to pass freely through the hole, so when a bite is detected, a fisherman can feed line to the fish and the fish will not drag the weight.
The weight is held away from the leader by a small swivel, usually a barrel swivel. Attached to the other side of the barrel swivel is a leader of six to ten lb. test line from three to eight feet in length, the other end of the leader is tied to a snelled on hook (learn to snell a hook). Hook size is usually number two, four, or six. Number four for most nightcrawlers, leeches, and minnows. Use a number six for small baits, and a number two for larger minnows.
To further describe a rig, I’ll list the components from the rod tip going to the hook- 1. Line from reel, 2. Attach slip weight to line from reel. 3. Tie on barrel swivel thus holding on the weight. 4. Tie on the leader to other side of barrel swivel. 5. Tie a hook to the leader preferably using a snell knot (learn to snell). You’ve got a rig. Many guys use a bead or two in between the weight and swivel and above the hook for color and knot protection.
Here is how the livebait rig from bite to hookup works…
While slowly coursing on a breakline of a classic walleye lake or river, with the reel bail open and index finger holding the fishing line, comes an ever so slight tap on the line. Within a split second the index finger releases the line thus feeding bait to the fish. A short three to thirty second pause is taken, during this time line slowly peels off or is fed off of your reel, then the bail is closed and with rod tip pointing toward the fish quickly reel in excess line, when you feel some weight, then sweep the rod tip to the eleven o’clock position. Then you yell- fish on! Or maybe keep it quiet as not to attract other boats! Grab the net, and smile in the satisfaction of sticking a good walleye.
Now the tips from this season.
Tip number one. Feed line on every odd or unusual feeling while rigging. Don’t wait for an aggressive bite, walleyes can bite as subtle as a blade grass, and often just a tick is felt when they pick up the bait.
Tip number two. After feeding line to the fish, do NOT wait to feel a second strike, or a lot of weight. Set the hook when you feel more than the normal relative feel of the rig.
Tip number three. Do not go over board on the hook set, when your hooks are properly sharp, a good medium power hook set will work fine. Huge hook sets will miss fish.
Tip number four: Early in the season I find (At least on the St. Croix) that hook sets can be instantaneous upon feel, but then as the season progresses feeding line of up to thirty seconds are needed in order to sink the hook.
Tip number five. Before fishing starts, make sure that your line will freely flow off of your spool, to help this free flow simply cast the rig out and slowly reel it in. Even with the bail open, line can “stick” on your reel, and not flow out, be aware of this, and be prepared to feed line manually.
Tip six: Keeping your reel fully spooled with line helps the free and smooth flow of feeding the bait.
Tip seven. After you feed line and close the bail make darn sure that the line is seated in the line guide/roller and not on the bail itself. If the line is on the bail the hook set will cause the bail to pop open and the set will have no power.
Tip eight. In deep water (22 feet plus), You do not have to drag the weight on the bottom, I find bite detection to be far superior when the rig weight is above, but close to the bottom, basically visualize the weight as a jig head. This tactic results in less snags and any tick is on the hook end and not caused by the weight dragging bottom.
Tip nine. Rigging does not have to be a hover in place presentation, rigs can catch fish at up to 1.0 mph, just keep that trigger finger ready to feed line. This works great with spinners.
Tip ten. The rod you use is very important the tip must be soft and sensitive yet still have a fast action; also the rod must have back bone to set the hook. If the rod action is too fast the hook sets just seem to slip out. On all my guide trips while rigging, I use the Limit Creek LCS69MLF, or the LCSE83MLF when using leaders 10 feet and longer, or if I’m fishing four or more lines off the back of the boat I’ll use two of the LCSE83MLF as the wide rods and one or two LCS69MLF as the inside rods.
Livebait rigging is likely the most satisfying way to catch a walleye, feeling the tick of a bite, feeding line, and setting the hook into a “snag” that has a head shake is a feeling you won’t forget. Keep Catchin’
Turk Gierke