Turkey calling STRATEGY tutorial?

  • johnee
    Posts: 731
    #1350799

    Does anyone know of an online turkey calling tutorial or series of lessons?

    I totally admit that I’m a total novice and this year will be the first time ever of taking to the field.

    Let me be clear, what I’m really interested in is the strategy and NOT the how-to of using a diaphragm call to make this or that sound. I have a box call and a slate call, but making the actual sounds isn’t what I’m after here.

    What I want is the strategy. You’re sitting in the woods at dawn, Mr. Big is in the roost with his harem within easy travel/hearing distance. What now?

    See what I mean? The strategy. Do I gobble and challenge Mr. Big to come out and fight? Do a little lost hen cluck-cluck-purr, here I am big boy, come and get me?

    I’d really like to hear the “if this situation, try this first and this second” types of things.

    I have good eyes-on intel of the places we’re going to hunt so the roosting areas will be well-known. I’m confident I can get within hearing distance, but not so confident about what to call with.

    Any thoughts or resources?

    Thanks.

    Grouse

    PowerFred
    Posts: 395
    #1352913

    I don’t know of any online tutorials, but I do have 30 years of turkey hunting experience.

    1. Start soft and infrequant and work up from there. Some birds like the TV show, power calling, but most like it soft and sweet. You can always increase frequency and volume as the bird responds. If you over call right away, you can turn them off real quick.

    2. when in doubt, sit tight and shut up. Birds that answer every call are asking you to come to them. Get quiet and make them come looking for the bird that WAS calling over here, but got quiet. Lots of birds have been killed by making them get curious about the hen that stopped calling.

    3. Every morning and every bird is different. Some mornings they will gobble at every sound in the woods. Tomorrow they are dead silent.

    4. carry lots of calls. Some birds like box calls, some like slate calls. Gotta have what they like to make them talk!

    Like I said in #1, I like to start soft and slow. You need to “take their temperature” and guage their activity level.

    I had a bird that I killed a few years ago. I hunted him myself and with others for 3 weeks. Every day he flew down, went his strut zone and hung out for 3 hours before he wandered off. We could get within 100 yards of his roost, call him down, but he always went to his strut zone. Finally, I went and waited for him at his strut zone. That morning he hung in the roost woods for 2 hours! I moved about 50 yards closer to him, and with one call he ran 400 yards across an open field to his death! 26 pounds, double 10″ beards and 1 1/4″ spurs.

    My point is that even the most “predictable” bird can and will be unpredictable at some point in the season. Being able to adapt will kill more birds than trying to use a “Step 1, step 2, step 3” type of approach.

    alanmdk
    Posts: 222
    #1352915

    I would shy away from using that E-caller if hunting in MN. Mostly because I don’t think they sound as good as 98% of the other types of calls available, and secondly they are also illegal.

    CW

    johnee
    Posts: 731
    #1352916

    Woah! Many thanks for bringing it up, CW. On a more careful reading I see it, but they don’t name eCallers specifically as a no-no, it’s included by omission. Presumably, then, cell phones and GPS units stay in the truck as well.

    Post edited least someone else read that and not see your response. Many thanks, very easy to miss that.

    Grouse

    Joel Nelson
    Moderator
    Southeast MN
    Posts: 3123
    #1352920

    Quote:


    I don’t know of any online tutorials, but I do have 30 years of turkey hunting experience.

    1. Start soft and infrequant and work up from there. Some birds like the TV show, power calling, but most like it soft and sweet. You can always increase frequency and volume as the bird responds. If you over call right away, you can turn them off real quick.

    2. when in doubt, sit tight and shut up. Birds that answer every call are asking you to come to them. Get quiet and make them come looking for the bird that WAS calling over here, but got quiet. Lots of birds have been killed by making them get curious about the hen that stopped calling.

    3. Every morning and every bird is different. Some mornings they will gobble at every sound in the woods. Tomorrow they are dead silent.

    4. carry lots of calls. Some birds like box calls, some like slate calls. Gotta have what they like to make them talk!

    Like I said in #1, I like to start soft and slow. You need to “take their temperature” and guage their activity level.

    I had a bird that I killed a few years ago. I hunted him myself and with others for 3 weeks. Every day he flew down, went his strut zone and hung out for 3 hours before he wandered off. We could get within 100 yards of his roost, call him down, but he always went to his strut zone. Finally, I went and waited for him at his strut zone. That morning he hung in the roost woods for 2 hours! I moved about 50 yards closer to him, and with one call he ran 400 yards across an open field to his death! 26 pounds, double 10″ beards and 1 1/4″ spurs.

    My point is that even the most “predictable” bird can and will be unpredictable at some point in the season. Being able to adapt will kill more birds than trying to use a “Step 1, step 2, step 3” type of approach.


    I like Fred’s response. He did a good job of summing up something that’s incredibly difficult to put your finger on. So much of my strategy relies on past hunts, but more importantly, the mood of the bird interpreted from his tone, volume, and actions.

    Admittedly, that comes from experience. Knowing that, there’s a few groups of metro birds that can’t be hunted which I highly recommend going to and calling at where legal.

    I understand what you’re asking about strategy, but don’t overlook the “how-to” tips of using each call well. I’m a firm believer that woodsmanship and patience kills more birds than anything, but if you’re short on either or both, being a damn good caller is your next best bet. Each bird is different, and much like Poker, you can work off of likelihoods and percentages, but the data is clouded by a funny card that turns up somewhere in the deck it shouldn’t have been. The best turkey hunters I know play those odds but aren’t afraid to try something different on a bird that doesn’t play ball.

    In the meantime, have you attended a DNR Wild Turkey Clinic? I’ve got one going on in Cannon Falls April 12th, and I spend about an hour on pure strategy. Most importantly, a day in the hunt, where I go through my preferences for how to hunt birds throughout their typical spring daily patterns.

    There’s some good books out there, but alot of the articles I read are fluff. I’d highly recommend just spending time listening to real birds as often as you can. That might be an audio file, or even better the real thing if you can. I know for a fact that I’m hunting better at the end of the season than I am at the beginning.

    Joel

    PowerFred
    Posts: 395
    #1352921

    If you hear hens with no gobbling, try calling in the hens.
    If you have a bird that you know has his harem with him, you won’t call him away from live hens. Best bet is to call to the boss hen and get her worked up. Hens have a heirarchy just like toms to. If she thinks that a new hen is making a move on her man, she’ll be over to set things straight. With a little luck, old Mr Longbeard will tag along behind her and you can shoot him in the face!

    gobbler
    Central, MN
    Posts: 1110
    #1352923

    Do the old “Rope-a-dope” decoy technique.

    It may not have anything to do with calling but works great for those late season Tom’s that have become decoy shy.

    I like to use this technique while hunting over an open field that isn’t very wide (150 yards or less). Basically, I set up 2 ground blinds directly across from one another on each edge of the field. I will hunt in the same blind 2-3 days in a row with the same decoy set-up. Usually the Tom’s will skirt around my set-up but be within range of my other blind. If I get to day 3-4, I do the same thing and just sit in the other blind on the opposite side of the field. The Tom’s will usually follow the same path as the days before and loop around the decoys. This technique gives me a perfect shot opportunity and is almost comical when it happens because they have no clue.

    Now, it can backfire and will drive a hunter nuts when it does. I had a satellite Tom walk right between my decoys on the last day of season just when I thought I had the local Boss Tom pegged…..

    mbenson
    Minocqua, Wisconsin
    Posts: 3842
    #1352938

    As menitoned, each and every bird is different, so the piece that hasn’t been mentioned yet is the scouting portion of it… No different than deer or ducks, no scouting makes for tough season, period!!!

    Have gone after them, set up and waited for them, but Gobbler’s rope-a-dope trick is nifty, but add this to your setup… Tie a length of power pro to the spring in side the decoy and give her a tug or two when Mr. Big is looking… Doesn’t always work, but I had a tom three years ago at 20 yds and a couple of baby tugs to move da decoy was all I needed to get the gun up and him down…

    Last year a friend and I sat in a blind and double teamed calling him until we knew he was coming up the hill toward us, then clammed up while he literally rubbed his feathers on the blind passing us… Then as he walked by, I was able to pull off the target in da fan shot at 18 yds… This year is looking like it is going to be the most challenging of all with this snow 2′ deep in most cases in the woods. We are going to be hunting prespawn turkeys this year… Good luck, play with it, no strategy is really bad so long as you aren’t moving while he’s looking atcha and… turkeys are crappy callers too!!!

    Mark

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