Heating garage

  • Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13297
    December 29, 2017 at 2:20 pm #1739392
    kidfish wrote:

    The ceiling is open through the rafters up to the roof. I love the ease and convenience of storing things in the rafters, but we will put up a ceiling and insulate it.
    Keep it open if you like it. Spray foam the roof deck and keep the open trusses. Nothing wrong with that.

    This is incorrect. Do not spray foam directly to the roof. Ventilation is needed to keep it cool underneath the roof. Ice dams are a major concern if you heat the entire space. I have a friend who used the spray foam directly to the sheathing and he fought ice dams every year since.
    The proper way to insulate is to apply vapor barrier, then rock the lid. Next install baffles to allow air to circulate from the soffits and out the roof vents.

    ^^^^^ Here is a perfect example of an incorrect installation of foam ^^^^ Clearly the wrong R-Value was applied.

    The best practices we have found over the last 35 years of building homes have been directed by BSC. When Building Science Practices have been followed, we have NEVER encountered a failure.

    https://buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-149-unvented-roof-assemblies-for-all-climates

    Hot Runr Guy
    West Chicago, IL
    Posts: 1934
    December 29, 2017 at 3:19 pm #1739405
    Randy Wieland wrote:

    ^^^^^ Here is a perfect example of an incorrect installation of foam ^^^^ Clearly the wrong R-Value was applied.

    The best practices we have found over the last 35 years of building homes have been directed by BSC. When Building Science Practices have been followed, we have NEVER encountered a failure.

    https://buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-149-unvented-roof-assemblies-for-all-climates

    Randy, I’m curious. How does the weight of the ccSPF affect the size of the rafters, spacing and decking? Doesn’t this need to be considered before-hand, as part of the dead load?

    HRG

    reddog
    Posts: 801
    December 29, 2017 at 4:05 pm #1739416
    Randy Wieland wrote:

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>kidfish wrote:</div>
    The ceiling is open through the rafters up to the roof. I love the ease and convenience of storing things in the rafters, but we will put up a ceiling and insulate it.
    Keep it open if you like it. Spray foam the roof deck and keep the open trusses. Nothing wrong with that.

    This is incorrect. Do not spray foam directly to the roof. Ventilation is needed to keep it cool underneath the roof. Ice dams are a major concern if you heat the entire space. I have a friend who used the spray foam directly to the sheathing and he fought ice dams every year since.
    The proper way to insulate is to apply vapor barrier, then rock the lid. Next install baffles to allow air to circulate from the soffits and out the roof vents.

    ^^^^^ Here is a perfect example of an incorrect installation of foam ^^^^ Clearly the wrong R-Value was applied.

    The best practices we have found over the last 35 years of building homes have been directed by BSC. When Building Science Practices have been followed, we have NEVER encountered a failure.

    https://buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-149-unvented-roof-assemblies-for-all-climates

    Lstiburek is my hero. You are right on track. There’s no way a spray foamed roof deck would cause ice damming unless there was not enough R installed.

    kidfish
    Posts: 219
    December 29, 2017 at 4:37 pm #1739422

    I also forgot to add that by installing a Sheetrock lid, the amount of volume that is required to heat reduces drastically, making the heating much more efficient.

    MnPat1
    Posts: 363
    December 29, 2017 at 4:39 pm #1739423

    using spray foam directly to the roof deck is great tool for older houses. Now if you ever need to replace a sheet of plywood on the roof good luck to you.

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13297
    December 29, 2017 at 4:55 pm #1739427
    Hot Runr Guy wrote:

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Randy Wieland wrote:</div>

    ^^^^^ Here is a perfect example of an incorrect installation of foam ^^^^ Clearly the wrong R-Value was applied.

    The best practices we have found over the last 35 years of building homes have been directed by BSC. When Building Science Practices have been followed, we have NEVER encountered a failure.

    https://buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-149-unvented-roof-assemblies-for-all-climates

    Randy, I’m curious. How does the weight of the ccSPF affect the size of the rafters, spacing and decking? Doesn’t this need to be considered before-hand, as part of the dead load?

    HRG

    Generally, trusses are designed to support minimum 10# dead load to account for insulation and sheetrock. 10# is pretty generous, so usually not a factor. Now if you start hanging solid decorative beams….and other gizmos, yes you need to account for it in engineering

    big_g
    Isle, MN
    Posts: 21849
    December 30, 2017 at 9:06 am #1739559
    suzuki wrote:

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>eelpoutguy wrote:</div>
    Rabbit – People may be referring to their “unit heater” (generic name) as a hot dawg (brand name).

    IE. Grab the frabill.

    My unit heater IS a Modine Hot Dawg. I’ve never heard anyone call a garage heater a Hot Dawg if it wasnt.

    I have seen the 110v hanging electric heaters called Hot Dawgs… doah 15 years ago, if a heater “hung” in a garage, it was a Hot Dawg… they are nice units. That said, a 7 day programmable thermostat for $48 running it, will pay for itself in 1/2 a winter.

    big_g
    Isle, MN
    Posts: 21849
    December 30, 2017 at 10:20 am #1739593

    I had that thru wall mount type in my old place…now I have these one in my shop at home 16×22 and 2 in my garage at the cabin 24×28. They do a great job. I got them on Black Friday for $79 ea, they have had them the last 2 years on that sale.

    John Timm
    Posts: 350
    December 30, 2017 at 10:31 am #1739595

    Ok, I had one of these electrics from fleet farm on sale but don’t have a proper outlet in my garage so I returned it.

    buckybadger
    Upper Midwest
    Posts: 7253
    December 30, 2017 at 6:20 pm #1739705

    I recently insulated, vapor barriered, and finished off my 2 car attached garage. At 0 degrees with one warm car coming in, the garage stays at about 30-34 degrees. Anything above freezing, and the garage temp wavers at 35 or better. I am honestly considering NOT heating my garage even after finishing it. A propane heater on high for 30 minutes gets it to 45. There are no moisture concerns as I only run the heater in short bursts.

    grizzly
    nebraska
    Posts: 876
    December 30, 2017 at 7:01 pm #1739723

    I heat house and shop with wood, its a lot of work but good heat

    Jeff mattingly
    Lonsdale, Mn
    Posts: 495
    March 23, 2020 at 12:23 pm #1926239

    storage in the closet. previous home owner had a large air compressor in there. the garage is hooked up to 220.

    Hot Runr Guy
    West Chicago, IL
    Posts: 1934
    March 23, 2020 at 12:43 pm #1926251
    Jeff mattingly wrote:

    storage in the closet. previous home owner had a large air compressor in there. the garage is hooked up to 220.

    Thanks! Good luck with the sale.

    HRG

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