Hydro Seeding?

  • dank
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts: 1123
    #1357943

    Hello-

    My lawn needs some series help and we are looking at Hydro Seeding.

    Anyone have any luck with this?
    Anyone have any companies they would recommend?

    We looked at resodding and it is very expensive and heard that this was a more affordable option.

    thanks
    Dan

    Richard V.
    Somewhere over the rainbow
    Posts: 2596
    #1408877

    A few years ago I broadcast seed and used a drag harrow to work the seed into the soil. I have a pretty large yard so the harrow was my best option if your yard is smaller a verticut machine is a better way to do it. Down here in Kansas City we have a retailer that specializes in grass, they recommended a particular fescue blend for our area of the country and their house brand starter fertilizer. Everything worked great although it was all done in the fall, I would think that the spring would do almost as well.

    sandmannd
    Posts: 928
    #1408909

    I’ve heard good things about Hydro Seeding but it’s also expensive. I have to seed an acre this year. I’m renting a seeder and doing it myself.

    mossydan
    Cedar Rapids, Iowa
    Posts: 7727
    #1408922

    If you can get your hands on one of those little garden weasels try one of those. Rough up the ground , you don’t have to do every square inch, just enough evenly. Put down the seed and use a rake to work it into the soil and you’ll have grass in 2 weeks. The young shoots pull from the ground real easy so let it grow until you need to mow it or until its about 3″ long. go to one of the local garden centers and ask what kind of seed is good for your area is the best bet. I did our whole yard and it worked great, keep it wet so the seed germinates and grows good for the first few weeks.

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11702
    #1408924

    Let me ask how big of an area you need to do. Several years back, I had to completely reseed my backyard (roughly 40′ x 125′). I rented a rear-tine tiller, shallowly tilled everything, and seeded. The results were/are great. If you’re not in a hurry, I would also wait till around labor day. The heat of summer is tough on new grass, and you’ll need to water a lot!

    hnd
    Posts: 1575
    #1408935

    hydroseeding then putting down hay works really really well. i ran a hydroseeder in college in VA where its all clay and terrible soil. it worked wonders.

    i am a seed in the fall type of guy. fall fertilize it, cover in hay, then let winter happen. the next spring, seed it again, fertilize re-hay and grass will shoot up quick.

    dank
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts: 1123
    #1409002

    My yard is pretty small in back (20 x 10) and then I have the sides of the house and the front has some patches.

    Last year I threw new dirt down and applied seed and started to see some grass come up. We had some work done in teh abck and now the backyard looks pretty rough.

    I am not against hardwork but am willing to pay to have it done fast if the results happen.

    Basically I want a nice looking lawn!

    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11006
    #1409042

    Quote:


    My yard is pretty small in back (20 x 10) and then I have the sides of the house and the front has some patches.

    Last year I threw new dirt down and applied seed and started to see some grass come up. We had some work done in teh abck and now the backyard looks pretty rough.

    I am not against hardwork but am willing to pay to have it done fast if the results happen.

    Basically I want a nice looking lawn!


    Go with Ralph’s approach.

    The only step I would add, is do a total kill with Roundup first. If possible, spray completely, wait 5-7 days, then spray again and wait 3-5 days. Then till and plant. You’ll still get some weeds, but there’s no since planting a new lawn only to have it full of weeds from day 1.

    I did this about 7 years ago, we had a major house renovation and extension, so about 75% of the lawn was trashed anyway. No since saving the other 25%, so I did a total kill and till/replant.

    Grass grown from seed is way better than sod.

    Also, buy the right seed for the conditions. If the area is shaded, buy shade-specific seed. If it’s direct sun all the time, buy that seed. It REALLY does matter, the seed types are totally different.

    Finally, you have to water, water, water. Young grass burns up really easily, especially when the soil is exposed so there’s high evaporation in the top layer. Personally, I watered every evening, not sure if this is the best time, but it seemed to work out fine. I noticed, though, that even with a good daily watering, exposed areas with a slope were really dry by the end of the day.

    Grouse

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11702
    #1409051

    Quote:


    The only step I would add, is do a total kill with Roundup first.



    Agreed, but I didn’t need that step as it was already totally killed. Were I not moving, I would be doing the same to the front yard.

    belletaine
    Nevis, MN
    Posts: 5116
    #1409064

    I need to do this at the lake. I’ve always had good luck when it comes to seeding, I think the key is a thorough raking to turn it in after applying.
    Sure wish I knew how to operate a bobcat, my bib included $1000 for bobcat work.

    TazTyke
    Central Minnesota
    Posts: 473
    #1409139

    You want results quick? Why not just sod it?

    belletaine
    Nevis, MN
    Posts: 5116
    #1409144

    Quote:


    You want results quick? Why not just sod it?


    He said in his post sodding is too expensive.

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11702
    #1409160

    Sod sucks. Aside from keeping weeds to a minimum and getting a good appearance NOW, a seeded lawn will turn out better in the long run, and you really have to baby sod just as much as seed till it is established, which may take a couple of years.

    TazTyke
    Central Minnesota
    Posts: 473
    #1409162

    Wether he said sod or not you can’t have seed and quick in the same sentence. Kind of an oxymoron. If you want to use seed then plan to wait for it to grow. Your talking a minimum of 3 weeks plus a whole second season before it thickens.

    munchy
    NULL
    Posts: 4668
    #1409165

    Quote:


    Quote:


    You want results quick? Why not just sod it?


    He said in his post sodding is too expensive.


    A quick search came up with $.17 per square foot for sod. That’s about $35 for the backyard. And probably another $35 for the other areas depending on size. $70 total to have it completed in one day is a steal to me.

    dank
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts: 1123
    #1409744

    Well, I ended up double aerating the whole lawn, threw a ton of seed down and then some starter fertilizer.

    I called another company and they came out and told me that sod won’t work if you don’t fix the soil and if you are fixing the soil, you should just lay down the seed and let it come in normally.

    Doing it this way saved me close to 500. I’m excited because my lawn looks like it has really been worked over. (in a good way)

    I will keep everyone posted on how this turns out—I’ll hope for some mild temps and some nice rain over the next couple of weeks.

    Thanks for the feedback.

    Boss Hawg
    Inactive
    Brainerd Lakes Area
    Posts: 278
    #1409868

    I’m missing something here. 10 x 20? Hydroseeding is just an easy way to spread seed on large areas, it doesn’t do anything else. If you put down black dirt and seeded and it didn’t grow you did something wrong, most likely didn’t water enough. Either that or you have toxic soil, what do you think changed this time?

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11702
    #1409869

    A little late now, but a $20 soil test from the U of M is well worth it!

Viewing 18 posts - 1 through 18 (of 18 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.