Not sure if I used oil or water based stain last time-so what should I use this time? Brands you guys like…. Someone to do it for me for cheap(like that idea) Trust this site more than just the internet in general, at least here someone will make some ‘smart’ remark.
Thanks
Stay very far away from Bear from Home Depot. I spent years trying to clean up that crap to put down something better. And anything is better than Bear.
We went with TWP from FleetFarm and been happy with that.
One Time Wood. A little expensive, but it covers well and looks great.
Kyhl,
What didn’t you like about Behr? I think they bought Sikkens recently, which used to be good stuff.
With that said I plan to use TWP on my fence this fall. Their site has all kind of instructions.
Best advise I ever got about staining a deck, don’t do it. Stain or sealer only lasts so long and it looks like absolute crap once it wears down…For the most part, no matter what kind of stain or sealer you use, you will be re-doing it in a couple years.
In MN nothing lasts long on horizontal surfaces especially if it bakes in the sun all day, shady areas last a bit longer.
The biggest problem is you are only sealing 1 of 6 sides of the deck board so moisture gets into the board from the 5 unsealed sides and pushes the finish of the top.
If you are going to stain your deck prep work is just as important as the product used. Make sure the wood is clean and has a low moisture content and apply the finish at the recommended temperatures.
Well i had a bad experience with cabot solid stain. I followed the instructions after cleaning the deck as best i could and it lasted roughly 4 months before it started peeling. For $50 a gallon it should have lasted longer. Anyway i contacted them and they refunded my $ so I can respect that. The stain did not stick to bare wood, new wood or previously stained boards. After a rain, i can walk out barefoot and it will peel off onto my feet…..frustrating!
I redid my deck with the Behr Deck Over a couple of years ago. It’s not stain but still looks good even though it is in the sun all day. Only time will tell how well it will keep holding up.
I redid my deck with the Behr Deck Over a couple of years ago. It’s not stain but still looks good even though it is in the sun all day. Only time will tell how well it will keep holding up.
We just put this on our deck, so we will see how it does, but came highly recommended.
It depends on what type of wood you’re staining. I have been using TWP 1500 for a few years on my cedar deck. Really puts a nice finish on it.
I would stay away from Behr too, my parents tried it and it is more like a paint than stain.
I’ve used Sikkens SRD several times on my cedar decks and dock. Anywhere the deck is in the sun, the stain looks great year 1, ok in year 2, and needs to be redone by year 3. The decks I have in the shade, lasts several years and looks good.
I have used acrylic stain in the past (Behr) and it did peel off after a year or so, but my deck is in direct sun for most of the day and my dogs run all over it. I used the same stuff on my fence and that holds up pretty well. I believe the acrylic stains are not meant to soak into the wood, just cover it (like paint)
I will be doing my deck in the next few weeks and plan on using an oil based stain this time (probably Behr again)
One time wood sounds good, 7 year warranty-couple votes for TWP but otherwise no concensus so keep the replies comming. Sometimes think their is a bias for FF products on this site because we of course have a lot of sportsmen who are going their anyway.
I use twp 1500 stain and it is the best I have found. Make sure the wood is cleaned properly before hand. As previously stated, horizontal surfaces are hard to keep looking good especially in our climate. I can get 3 years out of twp 1500 stain on my decking.
Do not use wayer based stain….IMO. we bought very expensive stain, did all the prep just like they said and only got a year out of it. $1500 of stain would have been better off pouring it down the drain.
Rymar Extreme has been primarily a commercial product for years. You can now get it at Sherwin Williams. It is not cheap, $70-80 per gallon.
I have used it on my siding and deck for the last 4 years. I just applied my second application.
On the vertical surfaces of my deck, after 4 years, I had no need to reapply. The stain still held its color and coverage very good. On the floor however, I started to notice wear/fade at year 2. By year 3 the deck needed a new coat. I waited till year 4 thinking by that time the vert would need it.
Just last week I pressure washed and cleaned the deck, applied 3 days after a dry spell. Looks as good as new. I am a big fan of this product.
Based on the vertical wear my deck showed, I expect to get all of 5 years on my siding as it has limited exposure to any intense sunlight. I am on year two and it looks good as new.
At first house put the maintenance free trex type of decking over deck done! After moving done with decks budout area lots of windows and paver patio
Oil based is the way to go. Did mine with sherwin Williams water based and it wore off in one year in high traffic areas. Asked a professional painting guy and all he uses is oil based especially on decks.
The problem with any oil or water based stain is, if it dries to a thin layer of temporary protection (that) will trap water, and water is stain/paints worst enemy, not the sun. Vertical surfaces look good longer because they drain and dry quickly so water doesn’t get trapped. I personally don’t think they make an oil or water based stain that lasts, no matter what company makes it. In paints I use Sherwinn Williams or Benjamin Moore because they are the best, for painting. When it comes to finding something that treats a decks surface, not the rails or newels or pickets I use oil exclusively and in semi transparent thickness, not a solid based stain, that’s like thin paint that blocks water from evaporating.
On the hand rails and pickets a person can use just about anything they want but for deck surfaces its got to be thin as a treatment that soaks in and does not build up, so water can evaporate when it needs too. I paint and finish drywall for a living and have for 32 years and the best I’ve found for a decks surface is 50/50 linseed oil and mineral spirits. You can apply it with a bug sprayer and then back brush it and its important to apply it liberally so when the linseed oil dries it leaves a very thin build up. It keeps water from soaking in so far, that peels any film on the surface and it treats the wood. You will have to still apply it every few years but even when it wears down it still looks decent and its easy to apply with just about any method. They treat railroad ties with an oil based treatment to keep them from rotting and linseed oil does the same for deck surfaces. Pressure wash, let it dry very well and apply linseed oil/ mineral spirits. It takes a couple days to dry down but its the best treatment I’ve ever found. If you want to color it you can use a quart of oil based semi transparent stain to do that in a 5 gallon bucket. Id rather apply something that when it has to be treated again you don’t see peeling and doesn’t need pressure washing. Believe it or not theres a deck along a lake here where I live and the guy uses used motor oil, the older deck is still very solid and its a darker color and it takes a few days before it can be walked on but it works. Linseed oil dries fairly quick and can be walked on in a couple days, it works.
I’ll say this…. I love stain, love how it looks,, love how it protects. But my suggestion is that if the wood has EVER had any type of clear coat or stain or anything ever on it go the extra mile and completely strip it with the stripper (even if you can’t see any on the wood) and then use the cleaner chemical as well. Also, make dang sure that you do it when the surface is not warm at all. Do what you can in the morning hours and if you cant finish, wait for another morning. Stain seems to be so delicate with prep and application to get it just right. 2 years ago I didn’t take the proper precautions and ended up stripping all of it this spring and it was a pain in the butt!! The new coat looks good though! 
Anyone else use One Time? 7 years still sounds better than 3 to me.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Tuma wrote:</div>
I redid my deck with the Behr Deck Over a couple of years ago. It’s not stain but still looks good even though it is in the sun all day. Only time will tell how well it will keep holding up.We just put this on our deck, so we will see how it does, but came highly recommended.
Just wanted to bump this thread up, as I’m now sanding all the Behr Deck Over off of my deck. It didn’t even last a year without chipping significantly. Open to suggestions for round 2!
Back in the day, I used to sell Olympic stain products. It was linseed oil based. So, I would recommend going with an oil. I think staining a deck is a commitment to doing it on a regular basis to keep it looking nice. If you go with a transparent or semi transparent it wears off fast from UV exposure.
Best advise I ever got about staining a deck, don’t do it. Stain or sealer only lasts so long and it looks like absolute crap once it wears down…For the most part, no matter what kind of stain or sealer you use, you will be re-doing it in a couple years.
Bingo
I have a cedar deck, 2 sides of the house so a LOT of deck.
Dam near every year had to reseal it and still looked like crap.
Swore I was going to bite the bullet and rip it off and replace with that expensive decking.
So then I was in Menards looking at their stains and this lady came up to me and said, use this and never look back. Sooo, I couldn’t let a lady just tell me that without more so I was asking her about it and was impressed. She sounded like she knew WTH she was doing!
Check out Australian Timber Oil. I spent some hours sanding off all the old crap and put that down. So impressed. Been 2 years and I might clean it and give it 1 more coat this year, just to make it look purdy again, but so far…it’s holding up better than anything I’ve ever used. It doesn’t “need” to be stained again after the 2 years but like I said, it’ll look a little cleaner with a fresh coat.
Just wanted to bump this thread up, as I’m now sanding all the Behr Deck Over off of my deck. It didn’t even last a year without chipping significantly. Open to suggestions for round 2!
The Behr lasted 2 years on my deck with some chipping. I am going have to touch it up or do something else this year.
How are you taking yours off? Is it sticking to the belt sander?
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>BigWerm wrote:</div>
Just wanted to bump this thread up, as I’m now sanding all the Behr Deck Over off of my deck. It didn’t even last a year without chipping significantly. Open to suggestions for round 2!The Behr lasted 2 years on my deck with some chipping. I am going have to touch it up or do something else this year.
How are you taking yours off? Is it sticking to the belt sander?
Rented a belt sander that lasted about 10 sq feet before it stopped working (sandpaper was still good, mechanical failure). Anyone used a standup sander like this? Thoughts?
https://www.a-zrental.com/equipment.asp?action=category&category=58&key=FLSNCB%231
The checkbook will hurt but replace with composite. Like I said it will hurt, but it only hurts once.
Sanding OMG 
Not a chance. I’d only use a pressure washer. Like Dutch said “composite”.
FYI
Cedar decking sq ft $3.50
Trex Select sq ft $6.50
Azek (IMHO best) sq ft $8.50
Plus fasteners
The downside to composite is that some can get extremely hot. I’m talking no bare feet for people or dogs.
Wait til you price out aluminum or composite railing.
I tell my customers that want maintenance free decks they are expensive. They say “well I know that” then I give them a proposal and they say “I didn’t think it was going to be that expensive”:???:
THERE IS NO PAINT OR STAIN THAT WILL LAST IN MN…
wayer based stain
Did you mean “Water based Stain”?
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