Deck Rebuild Opinions

I’m about to put in a paver landing just like yours for the stairs my own deck – I really like how simple yours is- can I ask your stairs width and stone width? Did you put any gravel/sand below them or did you just level the ground? I’d like to get away with as little work as possible but don’t want it to go kittiwampus after a few years. I was going to dig in 6″ or 7″ and put down gravel and sand, but really just want to keep the stairs level and off the dirt.

ThunderLund78 wrote:

I’m about to put in a paver landing just like yours for the stairs my own deck – I really like how simple yours is- can I ask your stairs width and stone width? Did you put any gravel/sand below them or did you just level the ground? I’d like to get away with as little work as possible but don’t want it to go kittiwampus after a few years. I was going to dig in 6″ or 7″ and put down gravel and sand, but really just want to keep the stairs level and off the dirt.

Do it the right way the first time with a little class and sand. Or if it’s real hard ground then just sand

I put down 6” of class 5 and then an inch of sand. I need to get some more pavers in place because I’m a little worried tge sand will start to wash away.

I used 16” wide pavers (x3).

It had 18” wide pavers before that were laid directly on the ground. It sank maybe an inch in about 20 years but I figured I’d try and get out ahead of it and do it somewhat better than the previous owner.

Bringing this old thread back as I am getting ready to start a deck on our house.

The house was built in 1970 on a lake and no one ever decided to put a deck on to overlook the lake…crazy right?

Products and technology change so fast these days I just wanted to see if any of you guys that work with the products on a daily basis have any new opinions on what brand and/or product line is best and reasons why.

Any thoughts?? Anything change in the last couple years?

mudhole wrote:

Bringing this old thread back as I am getting ready to start a deck on our house.

The house was built in 1970 on a lake and no one ever decided to put a deck on to overlook the lake…crazy right?

Products and technology change so fast these days I just wanted to see if any of you guys that work with the products on a daily basis have any new opinions on what brand and/or product line is best and reasons why.

Any thoughts?? Anything change in the last couple years?

Our trex still looks identical to the day it was dropped on the jobsite for our build. That’s with a rolling fireplace, 2 kids, chairs being slid all over, toys run, an intoxicated guest falling off a stool a few weeks back…typical stuff. I have seen the Menards brand stuff and would never recommend that.

Azek is nice stuff too, but even pricier. We’ve sold for $2-3 million dollar homes and rarely if ever even with those pockets do people go the Azek route. 9/10 composite decking boards leaving here are Trex. 1 on average is Azek due to someone wanting a very specific color or look.

Keep in mind that there are different levels of Trex decking.

Eelpoutguy wrote:

Keep in mind that there are different levels of Trex decking.

That was going to be my next question. Any thoughts on their levels? If we were to go that route it would probably be the Transcend line.

Also, with reading stuff online seems to be the consensus that Trex is more scratch resistant. Anyone confirm that?

Doing a deck rebuild now due to snow collapsing the deck.

We went with trex and the transcend line. I liked it better than the aztec stuff. I couldn’t scratch the sample with my key if that helps.

Ain’t no such thing as scratch proof, or scratch resistant.

From what I’ve seen EPG is correct. It will all scratch.

I couldn’t even tell you which one we have on our deck without looking back. I think it’s the transcend line. The wife picked the color to match other wood accents on the house as close as possible.

Yes it will all scratch. What it takes to scratch it is what you need to be concerned about. For us with 2 kids and heavy use, I don’t think I’ve noticed a scratch in one year of living at the new place

Go with Westbury aluminum railings if they’re needed and the styles fit. It’s super easy to install and work with.

buckybadger wrote:

Go with Westbury aluminum railings if they’re needed and the styles fit. It’s super easy to install and work with.

I did notice this recommendation when this thread was new.

The railings will be my next thing I look into. Haven’t checked out Westbury yet, but will.

Westbury is solid, just remember to properly locate and install blocking.
When installing rail keep it away from the building for if/when you need to reside. I usually do 3″, just can’t go over 4″.

We have composite decking from menards and havent had a single problem with it. Granted we have a covered deck, but there is no way I would ever do a wood deck again after having composite. As bucky stated, we have drug furniture on it and have a propane firepit out there. Kids play with toys, and I have my grill out there as well.

Jake D wrote:

but there is no way I would ever do a wood deck again after having composite.

I could definitely see that. I still have a wood deck but at some point I’d like to replace the boards with composite.

Kind of like having carpet in a boat. Once you try the polymer/vinyl hard surface, you’ll never go back to carpet again.

When replacing wood for composite make sure you read the spacing requirements for that decking (all composite is not alike) especially stairs. You WILL need to add additional stringers. Some require 6″ o.c.

Eelpoutguy wrote:

When replacing wood for composite make sure you read the spacing requirements for that decking (all composite is not alike) especially stairs. You WILL need to add additional stringers. Some require 6″ o.c.

The majority of what I’ve seen is 12″OC for stringers. My deck is only 8×12. The end stringers are only 4 inches apart because the border deck boards are like a picture frame so you don’t see the grain/cut on the end of the boards.

^Be sure to not get grooved boards for the outside/picture frame. That’s a fairly common mistake I’ve seen when homeowners want to DIY a Trex deck. Most people face screw the picture frame but use the hideaway fasteners for the rest of the deck.

Pretty sure trex is 9″ o.c.?
I have seen 6″ but I could have been drinking that day.
If ya run diagonal you’ll need to add also.

Eelpoutguy wrote:

Pretty sure trex is 9″ o.c.?
I have seen 6″ but I could have been drinking that day.
If ya run diagonal you’ll need to add also.

Most Trex is 16”. 12” for diagonal.

Stair stringers need to be 9” or 12” depending on the product.

It’s product specific.
Typically need to supply this information when you go in for permit. That’s where the rubber will meet the road.

I ended up going through UglyDeck for my DIY project – IE I had them help me with the final specs/design and ordered all my material through them and did the rest myself – and I’d do it again in a heartbeat. They will, in GREAT detail, walk you through your composite options, benefits and code requirements. I ended up going with Deckorators, which is sort of a middle option. My Joists were 16″ centers and my stringers were 8″, I believe – a LOT of material goes into the stairs – Roughly half the cost of a second-level deck, on average.

Once you give them your plan and decide on your material, they will provide you with professional plan that you can turn into your city/county along with your permit application. It helped A LOT as it had all the necessary product spec info that I would’ve had a hard time finding, otherwise.

I wish Randy lived closer, I need my deck replaced.

SR

Building it or the knowhow will not be an issue. I was a framer for about 10 years what seems like a lifetime ago (I’ll just be moving a little slower than I used to). There just wasn’t any composite decking when I was still in it so my knowledge there is limited. Think I have a good handle on it now. Will probably go with Trex Transcend. Just need to go to a yard that has samples. NO WAY I”M PAYING TREX $5/per FOR A SAMPLE! Another thing that’s new to me is the flashing on all the joists/rims. Didn’t do that back in the day. Seems like a good idea though.

The Westbury railing seems like a good option as well. And not as high priced as I thought.

Now time to get some plans drawn up and submitted to the city. Time for this lake house to have a deck!