Basement remodel advise

  • michael keehr
    Posts: 323
    #1967517

    Hi all I know a few of you on here are builders. I have a couple questions. I ripped off the paneling and sheetrock in my laundry room as I am installing a new electrical panel and changing things around. Behind the rock they had 2x2s fastened directly to the block with fiberglass insulation in between. I am thinking I should rip the 2x2s off and put up pink foam insulation and then rebuild the 2×2 wall on top off that. Is this an OK way to do it or should I just leave the 2x2s and put foam insulation in between.

    buck-slayer
    Posts: 1499
    #1967522

    I would leave 2x2s on wall and fill in with Styrofoam. Might have to come back and fill any voids with Great Stuff spray due to crooked framing.

    Bearcat89
    North branch, mn
    Posts: 17893
    #1967525

    Leave the 2x2s and fill in between them.

    Deuces
    Posts: 4909
    #1967530

    Just wrapped up the kiddos room downstairs tonight. All I can say, is hire out the sheetrock taping and mudding, worse job I’ve ever done, ever, worse, just to be clear, worse job ever in the world.

    That is all.

    cheers
    Posts: 325
    #1967568

    leave 2x2s and fiberglass untouched and put 4×8 sheets of ridged over top fastened to the 2x2s if your intent was to increase insulation hickness

    supercat
    Eau Claire, WI
    Posts: 1245
    #1967592

    If your looking for a simple fix leave them on and fill in between. If you want to do it right remove the strips and build a 2×4 wall around the perimeter. The problem with the strips is you are attaching them to a wall the is not plum or even. The 2×4 wall will allow room for plumbing or electrical behind the wall. Then I would suggest either having it spray foamed or insulate with at least an R19 batt insulation. 2″ foam only has a r value of 10. Most states require an r19 batt in the lower level.

    Rodwork
    Farmington, MN
    Posts: 3787
    #1967607

    X2 on what supercat said. Sheet rock sucks but is not hard.

    john23
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 2536
    #1967613

    I had the same situation in my basement. I had it spray foamed and it’s excellent in every way. Make sure you have the wiring in first or you’ll be cutting channels in your new foam. I used Lewis Insulation and the pricing wasn’t bad. Do the rim joists while you have the walls down, too!

    If it’s a small area you could get a two part kit and do it yourself. If you want to do it as cheaply as possible, consider foam board and sealing the edges with great stuff. You won’t get as good of a result as spray foam, though.

    Remember that on a block wall the vapor barrier goes on the outside, so using fiberglass batts with plastic toward the inside of the house is a no-no. If you do use fiberglass you’ll have to figure out how to get plastic up against the block first.

    carnivore
    Dubuque, Iowa
    Posts: 416
    #1967650

    Be careful using Great Stuff, especially in a basement. It gives off flamable fumes. A friend of mine was installing a radon removal vent pipe and sealing around it with GS when the water heater kicked in and enveloped him in flames. He got a severe burn on his leg but was fortunate to get the fire out quickly and save the clients house from much damage.

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13297
    #1967668

    Few things – are the 2×2’s treated? If not, long term rot problem.

    Next, most building codes require an air gap or barrier between batt insulation and block/concrete. Batt insulation will wick moisture from the block and often will mold.

    Be careful of spray foam and electrical wire/outlets. Not all spray foam is fire rated or acceptable to have “in contact”.

    If your just putting a bandaid on the area you cut open for the panel, fill the gaps with foam and be done.

    If your gutting it, snap your lines out at 4-1/4” from the wall. 3-1/2 for wall plates1, 1/2” foam tight to block wall

    brewerybuilder
    Posts: 155
    #1967726

    Randy and Supercat pretty much have it. I worked for a residential GC for about 20 years before my current gig.

    michael keehr
    Posts: 323
    #1968146

    OK so house was built in 70 basement finished as far as I can tell from paperwork was 83. The 2x2s are not treated but show no signs of rot. I will be staying here awhile so I want to do it right and get the benefit of better insulation. The house is a split level but it is block 8 feet up, not like today’s split level were it is block to just above grade. I am thinking I should do as randy suggested. This room is just the start. I did find a very small spot of mold near the drain and I have been thinking about redoing for awhile. 1 spot of mold is to many. It is all coming down now.

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13297
    #1968214

    OK so house was built in 70 basement finished as far as I can tell from paperwork was 83. The 2x2s are not treated but show no signs of rot. I will be staying here awhile so I want to do it right and get the benefit of better insulation. The house is a split level but it is block 8 feet up, not like today’s split level were it is block to just above grade. I am thinking I should do as randy suggested. This room is just the start. I did find a very small spot of mold near the drain and I have been thinking about redoing for awhile. 1 spot of mold is to many. It is all coming down now.

    Check your pm

Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.