Anybody have good plans for tower stands?

  • TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11002
    #1713392

    I want to build a few tower stands on sleds next year. Rather then just wing it, I figure this problem HAS to have been solved already. Somebody has to have good plans for a fast build that makes economical use of the lumber and materials.

    Anybody ever seen a good plan online for 2 man tower blind stands?

    I’m thinking something like a 4×6 with both horizontal gun windows and a verticle bow window. Anybody ever seen anything like this? I’d like to put the blinds on skids similar to these commercial jobbies so that they can be moved. Tipping over is not an issue because I’d build a “rock hopper” in the bottom of the sled and believe me, I’ve got plenty of rock to fill it with.

    I’m thinking el cheapo plywood siding sides

    I could wing it, but you know how that goes. You spend your first build figuring out all the stuff you did wrong. Also, I’ll be building these at my property, so I won’t have my full shop available with all the toys. I’ll haul a mitre saw and a compressor up to drive nailers, but other than that it has to be a handheld power tool build.

    Anybody have or see a good plan for 2 man stand build that’s relatively cheap and efficient to build?

    Grouse

    Steve Root
    South St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 5477
    #1713393

    I think you can still get one of these on the used market jester

    SR

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    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13297
    #1713399

    Anybody have or see a good plan for 2 man stand build that’s relatively cheap and efficient to build?

    Nope. Cheap usually means a LOT more time tinkering and trying to engineer on the fly. Most guys don’t have the time when it comes down to actually getting it done. Building anything with the intent to have it last for multiple years starts to add up and most people find out the hard way how expensive it can become (adding both their time and the materials)

    Before you dive in, take a look around for the metal skid systems like Banks has. Little pricy, but it may save you from a lot of headaches later

    haleysgold
    SE MN
    Posts: 1351
    #1713401

    I built 2 of them last based off the plans from the ones menards sells. Learned a lot!
    I used 2×6 frame and platform. 2×4 frame, 2 for each leg and plywood.
    It was HEAVY ! Setting upright was a trick too.
    Next 1 i build will be a platform setup and then build the walls in pieces. I’m gonna use 2×2 and wrap it in black tyvek stuff.
    Mine are up and work great but too heavy, 1 piece tipping it upright was really tricky.
    Even if yours is portable I’d think go light and the menards plan will get you close but all that treated lumber almost killed me !

    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11002
    #1713405

    Nope. Cheap usually means a LOT more time tinkering and trying to engineer on the fly. Most guys don’t have the time when it comes down to actually getting it done

    I hear you and you’re right, that’s why I was hoping for a proven plan that had been tweaked through experience.

    I was thinking of going with all steel and just using stud framing and plywood purlins, but then I added up the cost of all that steel and YIKES. Not going to happen.

    I’m not taking cheap-cheap, though, I mean obviously using OSB as the exterior is going to backfire at some point. I’m thinking more of cheap as in the efficient use of materials and not racking up costs by overbuilding which a LOT of plans do.

    For example…

    I used 2×6 frame and platform. 2×4 frame, 2 for each leg and plywood.
    It was HEAVY ! Setting upright was a trick too.
    Next 1 i build will be a platform setup and then build the walls in pieces. I’m gonna use 2×2 and wrap it in black tyvek stuff.
    Mine are up and work great but too heavy, 1 piece tipping it upright was really tricky.

    Yes, that is exactly what I’m talking about. I see so many stands that are massively overbuilt and that both adds unnecessary cost, but also it makes them so top heavy. They guys on a neighboring property built a massive 4×8 tower stand with deck entry and staircase 6-7 years ago and they obviously didn’t think things through. They stuck the 4×4 posts in the ground a couple of feet and called ‘er good. Stand didn’t last through 1 summer before a good storm blew it down. We looked at the wreckage and that thing EASILY weighed half a ton.

    I can’t see why a 2×4 base frame (treated) with 1/2 or 5/8 decking wouldn’t be enough, then I was thinking for 2×3 studs with 24 OC spacing. Based on your experience with the Menards plan, would that work?

    Would love to see pics of your setup and hear what the parts of it you’d change are.

    Grouse

    haleysgold
    SE MN
    Posts: 1351
    #1713410

    Here’s a couple.
    I have the menards plan saved someplace but can’t find it.
    1 was partially done when I stood it up. I finished it after it was up which was a PITA.
    So the next one I completely finished before I stood it up which was great but made it even heavier.
    I was able to use a pully type system and “pulled” them up with my tractor.
    That was scary to say the lest. I expected them to fall, crash and burn but somehow, got them upright and anchored down.
    By the way, I still made a bunch of modifications to them this year. Smaller windows stuff like that.
    Anyhow, they turned out great, I put comfy boat chairs in them and we can sit in it all day which I usually have a problem with. These are 6×6.
    They are not perfect and I will be making a couple more but will make them lighter and the walls be in sections with Tyvek wrap…it never ends though does it?
    I’m sure I’ll change that design too !
    Good luck!

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    haleysgold
    SE MN
    Posts: 1351
    #1713414

    Oh and I have a video when we stood the first one up.
    Pretty interesting !
    Gets a little hairy at the end…

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13297
    #1713415

    I had no intent of mobility when I built.mine. 20′ 6×6 posts 4 down and 16 up in 24″ diameter Crete 50″ down. Its stood through multiple storms with major line winds. So far, the strongest we know of was just under 100mph.

    I had the luxury of a 42′ boom fork and 16′ wide man basket. Took me 1 weekend to build, set windows, and roof. Came back and sided later.

    If I had ANY intention of mobility, I would go molded plastic blind. For the weight and durability, hard to beat

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    haleysgold
    SE MN
    Posts: 1351
    #1713417

    Sweet. I can obviously see why you are a carpenter and i am not!
    I could live in that.
    Nicely done Randy!

    Steve Root
    South St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 5477
    #1713418

    That’s incredible, Randy.

    For years I used to sit on a stump with brush piled up around me.

    I’m guessing your setup is a lot more comfortable.

    Nicely done!

    SR

    riverruns
    Inactive
    Posts: 2218
    #1713427

    Get yourself a used handicapped porta potty and mount that up high. Seen it done and it’s pretty solid. Cut some Windows and sliders for the Windows and use plexy glass for that. Sure seems to work good.

    deertracker
    Posts: 8967
    #1713480

    Latest box blind

    deertracker
    Posts: 8967
    #1713481

    Here is mine from a few years ago.

    My new deer stand project

    DT

    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11002
    #1713495

    I’m not going to go anywhere near as up market as Randy’s going, but that a fine piece of deer stand craftsmanship for sure.

    Hayley, what were you using to pull that stand up? Winch on a pickup?

    Randy, I’m with you, I’m pricing my building plans against the price of a pre-fab plastic unit. Costs really start to add up with lumber and materials these days, so it’s not hard to quickly get close to a plastic blind price and then have no hassles with building the blind.

    I added up the cost of doing an all-steel blind using pole barn sheet metal. Great for durability, but bad for price. Cost with framing easily exceeds cost of lower end pre fab blinds.

    Anyone bought any 2 person blinds? Not high end Banks stuff, I’m not shelling out $3k each for these things this isn’t the gold plated operation that I’m running here.

    Grouse

    nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1713509

    Have drove through Bauer Bros salvage yard in mpls a few times and seen they have old playground equipment and a myriad of other crap laying around outside. If you are good with modifying stuff might be able to pick up some exterior grade stuff for at least the frame for cheap. Stuff been laying around awhile, they should be negotiable on it.

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13297
    #1713530

    Grouse, how about just building a platform with eyebolts around the edges. Then just use a pop up blind that you can remove and take with You? If you build a 12′ tall skid style platform, it wont be so top heavy and easier to move????

    haleysgold
    SE MN
    Posts: 1351
    #1713564

    Hayley, what were you using to pull that stand up?
    Grouse

    Just 6 foot by 3 inch strap around the tree with a single pulley. 1 end to tractor and the other to the stand. Tractor pulled it up via the pulley. I use the same for skidding logs out to where i can get at them.

    riverruns
    Inactive
    Posts: 2218
    #1713567

    Grouse, how about just building a platform with eyebolts around the edges. Then just use a pop up blind that you can remove and take with You? If you build a 12′ tall skid style platform, it wont be so top heavy and easier to move????

    Randy, like this. We have the same set up as you described. We leave the blind up and take it down after season. Have multiple of these.

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    sticker
    StillwaterMN/Ottertail county
    Posts: 4418
    #1713636

    I don’t really have plans for it so to speak, but I built this one last year. It is the most modified version. I have built about 10 of them and each time they get a little better. Most of my material to build it is free that I get from taking large pallets apart at work. Here are some pics, sorry some are blurry.

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    sticker
    StillwaterMN/Ottertail county
    Posts: 4418
    #1713641

    Install was very interesting, but it worked

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    404 ERROR
    MN
    Posts: 3918
    #1713673

    Grouse, sending you a PM. I may have what you need.

    Mookie Blaylock
    Wright County, MN
    Posts: 457
    #1714128

    If you half know what you want I can draw up some plans for you with as few cuts as possible. I design/build custom anythings everyday.

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    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11002
    #1714162

    Appreciate all the replies and the offer from Mookie.

    I’m going to price out pre-fabs first. Lumber costs are so high and about to soar due to hurricane damage, so just my back of the napkin costing has a scratch build with windows coming very close to the cost of some prefab options. I’m going to have to buy all materials so the cost adds up fast.

    And then I have to consider hassle factor of building the blind on site. I’ve got all the tools, generator, etc, but building out in the middle of nowhere is a hassle no matter what and always slower than building something in my shop or driveway.

    Grouse

    311hemi
    Dayton, MN
    Posts: 742
    #1718932

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Randy Wieland wrote:</div>
    Grouse, how about just building a platform with eyebolts around the edges. Then just use a pop up blind that you can remove and take with You? If you build a 12′ tall skid style platform, it wont be so top heavy and easier to move????

    Randy, like this. We have the same set up as you described. We leave the blind up and take it down after season. Have multiple of these.

    You have any better pics of this setup? I was looking to do the same this year to set my blind on but decided to by a ladder stand instead. Compounding factor for me is the specific place I want to set it up is in a swamp and is wet (standing water again in place after the rains the other day).

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