I lost a cylinder coming in from sturgeon fishing last night. I called protec marine and got a quote from them for 2200 with about a two week turnaround. Has anyone had work done at other shops they would recommend? I am guessing the price will be about that anywhere but I would rather not be boat less for two weeks.
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Outboard rebuilders
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September 17, 2014 at 12:27 pm #1455739
Do you need to bore out the cylinder and put in an oversized piston?
Or, just replacing a single piston?
That sucks. Been there.
SJ Hansen has done great work for me and in a hurry too.September 17, 2014 at 1:13 pm #1455766What brand, what HP? 3 cylinders and 2 stroke isn’t enough to go on.
When you say “lost”, lost what? Compression, spark, piston cracked, rod broke? Again, assuming compression. How are the other 2 jugs? Did you do a comp test before you pulled it apart?
2 weeks might be about the best you’ll do depending on what the damage is and what brand. Assume the price quoted was for a full rebuild on all 3, but what else was included? New bearings anywhere, etc, etc?
Depending on what HP, a novel idea might be to buy a used outboard and take your time on the rebuild. Sell the used one in the spring and get your money back.
Grouse
September 17, 2014 at 2:07 pm #1455783It is a 97 40hp yamaha. All three cylinders look great with no scoring. Head has no damage.
I was coming off plane into the no wake it started nocking. The nocking stopped by the time I got the hood off. I changed plugs earlier this summer and set them on the top of the motor and forgot about them tell they started rattling around a few hrs later. My first thought was that since I put new plugs in last week. Nothing was out of place or loose under the hood and the nocking stopped so I idled the last two miles to the truck. I pulled the plugs after getting loaded up and could see aluminum built up on the plug. I pulled the head this morning after checking compression bottom to top was 112 110 102. Which lead me to pulling the head and finding the top of the piston in front of the exhaust port gone.
With my boat built for a short shaft jet and having a 22″ transom I am not sure if I can get away with running a long shaft prop without it cavitating for the time being. I found a few other jets I could repower with but 20+ hr round trip adds to the cost.
September 18, 2014 at 8:06 pm #1456225I am leaving for Missouri at 0230 and to pick up a new Merc 60/40 jet with the merc big tiller. They say they will have me on my way home tomorrow night. I can’t say I am excited about writing that check but I am looking forward to having a 4 stroke and electric start.
Once again I have to give Troutt and sons a big thumbs up. I called them tonight and told them I wanted to be back on the water as soon as I could and what I wanted. It took some shuffling for them to make it happen tomorrow. To bad those guys are 1200 mile round trip for me.
September 18, 2014 at 9:00 pm #1456245Don’t know if it matters here D, but always run non ethanol as it sounds like a hot spot on the piston because of the heat of ethanol burning. Did they tell you what piston it was, bottom one? or the hotter ones on the top of the block?
September 18, 2014 at 9:14 pm #1456255It was the top piston. I pulled it apart far enough to see the damage and decided to put my money into a new motor instead of rebuilding.
saddletrampPosts: 159September 19, 2014 at 10:00 am #1456370I admire your determination to get back on the water. That’s a heck of a drive, but now understanding that it’s a jet, you obviously didn’t have a big choice.
Don’t know if it matters here D, but always run non ethanol as it sounds like a hot spot on the piston because of the heat of ethanol burning. Did they tell you what piston it was, bottom one? or the hotter ones on the top of the block?
Ethanol Myths number 465 and 466 repeated again.
Ethanol burns cooler than gasoline, not hotter. Also ethanol blends also cannot create “hot spots” because they are entering the cylinder as a vapor, not a liquid. The sudden rush of the vaporized fuel into the vacuum of the cylinder gives no chance for densities of the various components to concentrate because of differing weights in the thousandth of a second before compression and ignition.
This is like saying that if you throw a glass of salt water in the air, the salt (NaCl) will hit the ground before the water because they are the heaviest components.
The other ethanol myth is that the top cylinder(s) “runs hotter because of ethanol”. Again, ethanol is only 10% of the fuel mixture by volume, so there is no way for ethanol to “concentrate” within the fuel system (carb or FI) to end up concentrated in one cylinder.
Cylinders run at slightly different temps mainly because of the flow of coolant around them and a bunch of other reasons, not because of ethanol. This temp variation is insignificant in terms of overall performance. Also keep in mind that taking external measurements is not really accurate because you are not measuring the temp of the cylinder itself, you’re measuring the head or water jacket outside the cylinder, all of which are connected together to distribute heat.
Grouse
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