Compartment lighting for MX1825

Toying with the thought of installing some LED lights in every compartment on this boat. Would you tie off of the current courtesy light circuit or run a new circuit for the compartments? I would have to see what the current amp draw is for the existing circuit before adding to it, but do you guys think having them seperate is beneficial?

Perhaps you guys at SBC could answer a few questions. Any idea what the amp draw is of one of the courtesy lights? I’m thinking of installing the same style in the compartments. If the current circuit could handle the increased amp draw, are the wires fairly accessible or would I have to tap off at the switch panel?

What are your thoughts?

I am going to be installing Blue Water LEDs into the compartments on my Skeeter. Will be adding a master switch for them and also spring switches in the compartments so they turn on when opened and off when closed.

Courtesy switch will work but I am opting to not do that because I do not what to light up the whole boat when I open a compartment. Only want as much light as I need. Just can not decide on what color…

On my old ZX225 bassboat I installed bluewater LED strips in every compartment, I tied them all to the Courtesy light switch on the dash. I figured I would only use them at night anyways so the stock courtesy lights would just add more light. I pulled the bulbs out of the few stock courtesy lights I didn’t want on at the same time.

I like the spring switch idea. Have you found a switch that would work for all lids?
I checked the Bluewater LEDs, but not sure how well the adhesive backing would hold up.

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I checked the Bluewater LEDs, but not sure how well the adhesive backing would hold up.

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It doesn’t, I used 3M double sided tape, never had an issue again…

Good tip

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Toying with the thought of installing some LED lights in every compartment on this boat. Would you tie off of the current courtesy light circuit or run a new circuit for the compartments? I would have to see what the current amp draw is for the existing circuit before adding to it, but do you guys think having them seperate is beneficial?

What are your thoughts?

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Boat makers are notorious for using the ABSOLUTE minimum wire gauge they can possibly get away with. Or in some cases I’ve found that they even used less.

So bottom line is I’d be very surprised if you didn’t have to run a new circuit because the draw on the existing circuit is near max for the wire. But it all depends on how many lights.

With in-compartment lights, the #1 issue is leaving them on and forgetting about them and draining the battery. I’m a big fan of both a master kill switch on the main bank of batteries AND a “panel kill” master that shuts off power to the whole console switch panel so everything that’s left on is killed.

Grouse

I’ll have to run out and test the amp draw. If at the worst i have to upsize wire gauge from fuse panel to courtesy light switch and branch the new lights off after the switch, then so be it. I like the idea of using the current light switch, and use the lid switch idea for the compartments.

how much draw can there be on LED lighting can’t be much

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I like the spring switch idea. Have you found a switch that would work for all lids?

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As much as I hate e-bay they have quite the selection of pin switches and lever switches and different mounting brackets. I will be ordering up all my stuff in the next week once I decide on lite colors

I just put a waterproof led strip in my rod locker. It cost me $10 or so on eBay, maybe less. It’s bright as heck and looks like it will hold up well.