Outboard Fuel Injectors – Anyone send them out for cleaning?

  • dhpricco
    Participant
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts: 483
    #2117820

    Thinking about pulling my fuel injectors from my 2004 115 Yamaha to be cleaned. Anyone ever send there’s to a good local shop or one of the out of state shops via mail? I am in the south metro. Any recommendations are appreciated. Looking into pulling the VST tank and cleaning it as well and replacing various fuel filters. Boat was new to me in the fall of 2020 and I feel like I never can really get above 4,500 rpm at WOT. Digging into various forums on this leads to the possibility of dirty fuel injectors or clogged fuel filters.

    Beast
    Participant
    Posts: 1077
    #2117830

    Warner’s dock in new Richmond Wis, or Frankie’s in Chisago city might.

    dhpricco
    Participant
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts: 483
    #2189049

    Wanted to bump this since my boat will hopefully be coming out of storage in the near future and first thing I want to do is pull these injectors and either DIY clean them or send them somewhere to be professionally done. Anyone either DIY cleaned theirs or sent them out somewhere?

    I tore apart the fuel system last fall and cleaned out the VST and the little screen inside the tank. I also replace one of the inline fuel filters between the fuel pump and VST along with some fuel line since I pretty much had to cut them to remove them from the barbs. The VST was not all that dirty but that little screen in there did have some particles in it that I got cleaned. I ran it after cleaning this out and the top end didn’t seem to change. Hoping at this point a good fuel injector cleaner will do something.

    Attachments:
    1. IMG_20221019_213250117-scaled.jpg

    2. IMG_20221019_205909067_HDR-scaled.jpg

    3. IMG_20221019_205611937_HDR-scaled.jpg

    Iowaboy1
    Participant
    Posts: 3575
    #2189056

    If I can help you out I do them down here at my shop, I just recently bought an M5000 marine injector testing and cleaning machine.
    You will get a detailed report of before and after of the condition of the injectors.
    They will be returned with new filters and O-rings ready to install back into the motor.
    If you send them to me please number them with which cylinder they come out of, The reason I ask this is if you seeing a problem cylinder we can verify if that injector is part of the problem or not.

    Sheldon’s Auto & Marine Services
    PO box 164
    28 East St
    Kellogg Iowa 50135

    Dutchboy
    Participant
    Central Mn.
    Posts: 15527
    #2189065

    Send them to Sheldon and get them done right.

    He may find it interesting you are actually doing some maintenance, seems most of the stuff he gets hasn’t seen a wrench in 50 years. jester

    dhpricco
    Participant
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts: 483
    #2189076

    Awesome! I will PM you Sheldon once my boat is out of storage and set this up to send them down your way!

    bigcrappie
    Participant
    Blaine
    Posts: 3797
    #2189278

    Are sure your prop is sized right? If you have to big of a prop you will never hit Max RPM?

    gregory
    Participant
    Red wing,mn
    Posts: 1532
    #2189340

    Are sure your prop is sized right? If you have to big of a prop you will never hit Max RPM?

    X2 also are you running a fuel water separator? If not I would add one.
    Also is starting fine? Running through the rpm’s ok?

    Tom Schultz
    Participant
    Posts: 33
    #2189348

    For the cost of new for a yammy 115, I’d personally go that rout and have no worries.

    dhpricco
    Participant
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts: 483
    #2189362

    I want to rule out dirty or clogged injectors before swapping out props, but the prop could definitely be playing into it. I think I have a 17″ pitch prop on it if I recall. I did add a fuel water separator prior to the engine after I bought it. Starts and runs fine through the whole rpm range just never gets above around 4500. I want to say the new OE injectors were over $100 each when I looked previously, but I would have to pull the p/n and double check that.

    gregory
    Participant
    Red wing,mn
    Posts: 1532
    #2189366

    What type of boat?

    John Rasmussen
    Participant
    Blaine
    Posts: 4959
    #2189371

    Starts and runs fine through the whole rpm range just never gets above around 4500.

    Are you going of the tach on the dash? Are you sure it is accurate? What is your top speed and are you trimming it out/up? Might be worth just bringing Sheldon the whole rig and let him figure it out. He is a great guy and well trusted by many on here.

    TheFamousGrouse
    Participant
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 10713
    #2189420

    Starts and runs fine through the whole rpm range just never gets above around 4500.

    I would be interested in Sheldon’s comments on if injectors would be on his top 3 suspect list given these symptoms.

    Personally, I’d get the whole rig in line at his shop quick before the spring rush hits a fever pitch. The problem with just sending the injectors is your putting all your eggs in that basket.

    What are you going to do if you send the injectors down and they all test fine? Then you’ve just spent a lot of valuable time on a goose chase.

    At some point pretty soon everybody’s going to start pulling their boats out of storage and trying to get in line to get all the things that were wrong last season fixed before this season.

    Iowaboy1
    Participant
    Posts: 3575
    #2189453

    Thanks all, Grouse, I am very familiar with that motor and here is how I would approach it if it were in my shop today.
    First things first, compression test, spark quality test, timing belt alignment, and, a fuel pressure test, and this includes a leak down test that verifies that the injectors or fuel pressure regulator are holding.
    Once that was checked out and verified I would hook my MEDS unit to it and look for history codes and make sure the following sensors were reading correctly, throttle position sensor, temp sensor, manifold pressure sensor, crank sensor, oil pressure sensor, shift position sensor, idle speed control, intake temp sensor, static and running outputs would be checked.

    There are two sensors that will keep it in limp mode, oil pressure, and, shift position sensor, they will not let it reach full output.
    IF it were reading hot on the temp sensor, an alarm will be blowing full blast.
    IF it were reading cold, it would only run richer than normal and soot the plugs to heck wouldnt have it.

    If all things are reading correctly and it still doesnt go to full throttle then a rigging check is made to make sure the throttle is opening completely.
    ALL of this is ASSUMING it is propped correctly and I sure would hope someone didnt nilly willy put a prop on it because it fit at the moment before being sold.

    I saved the injector test for last for a good reason, number one, for whatever reason on that series of motor regardless of which badge it wears they are notorious for getting dirty, and I mean dirty, especially the bottom two, poop flows downhill and when it settles at the lowest point it will be in those two injectors, certainly the bottom one or number 4 and they are a sumbitch to clean, why????

    Instead of having two orifices to spray out of, they have four small orifices to administer fuel through and being small they plug very easily.
    Yammie injectors take two to three times the effort to clean versus injectors that have two ports.
    Funny thing is, those injectors are used in many many applications including way back to the 1998 Chevy Tracker !!!!!

    We have been finding the last four years regardless of whos motor it is and what injector is used, if that motor has two hundred hours on it its time to pull them and test them, yes, our fuel today is that crappy!!!

    Okay, time for worse case scenarios, slipped timing belt, dowel in camshaft has worn its slot out and cam timing is all over the place.
    Failed ECU, it is usually caused by a gummed up idle speed control, it is the only thing driven by the ECU that can eat up amps, and when it does, it overheats the ECU taking out the logic module but it will run good until you get into the upper RPMS and it will lay down when it sets a bunch of codes that can only be cleared when you shut the motor off for at least two minutes and the ECU resets itself and it will run fine again until you hit the magic RPM.

    This is a test I learned the hard way, you will know when a idle speed control is not working and about to take the ECU out, when you switch the key on, listen for it to make three clicks, it will do the same thing when you shut the key off AFTER it has been started.
    If you cant hear the idle speed control clicking you are on borrowed time before the ECU goes south and that mother hummer is north of 1200.00 bucks!!!!
    That friggin idle speed control is 433.00 plus freight!!

    SO, I have to admit my MEDS unit is not perfect as it will not read engine hours on the older Yammie motors, SOOOOO, today, I spent another 500.00 on a yammie specific tool just to read engine hours. doah
    IFN any ya all win the lottery and need to invest in something, please remember this old tuckered out poor farm boy lol.

    isu22andy
    Participant
    Posts: 1203
    #2189458

    Fwiw – I had clogged VST filters and injectors on my Yamaha 150 4 stroke . Symptoms were it would get to speed and slowly fade away rpm’s , back off the throttle then crack it again and it’d go to 5800 then slowly fade back down after time . New vst and injectors and no problems since . Been changing the fuel filter on the engine religiously , maybe I should add a fuel water separator as well.

    Iowaboy1
    Participant
    Posts: 3575
    #2189460

    OOPS!! to answer Grouse’s question, yep, if it has over two hundred hours on it, pull them and have them tested, especially that series of injectors, you will thank me later.
    YA YA YA, I can hear it now, but but but, I use only non oxy and seafoam, star-tron, tune up in a can, mechanic in a bottle, whatever, I DONT CARE!!

    Think along with me guys, as I mentioned, tiny orifices in that injector, fuel sitting for months on end, treated or not, it will break down eventually, internal resistance of the injector, and the biggy, HEAT soaking of the fuel in the rail is thee number one cause of fuel degradation, HUH???
    Motor generated heat, think about the area that is under the hood, small and it holds a lot of heat, and a lot of it on hot sunny days.
    And ya gotta hope the fuel you bought is good fuel to start with.

    isu22andy
    Participant
    Posts: 1203
    #2189475

    Sheldon what’s your suggestion to keep them from continuing to clog?

    Iowaboy1
    Participant
    Posts: 3575
    #2189479

    Sheldon what’s your suggestion to keep them from continuing to clog?

    Andy, you just read how I dont believe in snake oils, that said there is one I do have absolute faith in and like many things I use them in my own stuff for at least two years before I go touting any recommendations.
    Six years ago I came across Schaeffer’s Neutra 131 and I have used it with great results across the board.

    Schaeffer’s now markets a marine fuel system stabilizer 5131, I received last week one of the first batches out.
    NOTE: I do not receive any payment, discount, special treatment of any kind from Schaeffer, I advertise freely for them because their products exceed what they advertise and I want folks to know its out there simply to protect your investments.

    If you follow any of my threads you will see where I have recommended them there as well.
    I will never recommend something I am not familiar with or have used myself period.

    tim hurley
    Participant
    Posts: 5390
    #2189524

    So what is the best additive to keep stuff from getting clogged? (already use non-oxy)

    Chuck Melcher
    Participant
    SE Wisconsin, Racine County
    Posts: 1962
    #2189534

    Sheldon…. Where is your shop located for my own future knowledge?

    This fuel treatment, are you going to be retailing and shipping it?

    Dutchboy
    Participant
    Central Mn.
    Posts: 15527
    #2189541

    He is in Kellogg Iowa. Just North of I-80.

    TheFamousGrouse
    Participant
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 10713
    #2189557

    So what is the best additive to keep stuff from getting clogged? (already use non-oxy)

    Buy high quality non ox fuel and USE it. So many guys use their boats so little and then they put 5 or 10 gallons in top off the gas that’s been in the tank since last year. Then they top off again… the bad crap keeps getting worse and worse because it never gets burned.

    Also run a good water separator and fuel filter. They are not one in the same. Not every fuel filter is a separator. Racor is #1 in my book.

    Do that and you won’t need additives.

    isu22andy
    Participant
    Posts: 1203
    #2189584

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>tim hurley wrote:</div>
    So what is the best additive to keep stuff from getting clogged? (already use non-oxy)

    Buy high quality non ox fuel and USE it. So many guys use their boats so little and then they put 5 or 10 gallons in to to off the gas that’s been in the tank since last year. Then they top off again… the bad crap keeps getting worse and worse because it never gets burned.

    Also run a good water separator and fuel filter. They are not one in the same. Not every fuel filter is a separator. Racor is #1 in my book.

    Do that and you won’t need additives.

    I’m guilty as charged on the just adding fuel part . I use my boat almost year round but I have never ran it empty since I’ve boughten it . Hell idk if the fuel gauge even works . 40 gallon tank and the most I’ve ever put in it is 22 gallons . I’ve considered running it empty to see if the fuel gauge works and to start fresh , but slightly concerned with what issues that might cause .

    Netguy
    Participant
    Minnetonka
    Posts: 2286
    #2189589

    I was thinking of running my new boat (in 2020) out of gas so I could add 5 gallons, check the gauge etc. so when it hit empty I’d know how much gas was left. I talked to Yamaha about doing that and they started listing the things that could happen to the motor if I ran it dry. Decided not to do it. May syphon/pump it out instead.

    Netguy
    Participant
    Minnetonka
    Posts: 2286
    #2189590

    Sheldon, what are the great results you have seen? How do you think its better than other fuel stabilizers? Thanks!!

    tim hurley
    Participant
    Posts: 5390
    #2189614

    It has become hard to responsibly despose of fuel these days.

    Eelpoutguy
    Participant
    Farmington, Outing
    Posts: 9552
    #2189615

    Sheldon is drinking #7 tonight celebrating his birthday.

    Man he’s old. rotflol

    MX1825
    Participant
    Posts: 2729
    #2189624

    You boys behave there in Iowa tonight. We need ALL 50 states. whistling

    Eelpoutguy
    Participant
    Farmington, Outing
    Posts: 9552
    #2189641

    Let the festivities begin! toast

    Attachments:
    1. BB821698-5F4E-4A79-ACF5-814E2EBB1F89-scaled.jpeg

Viewing 30 posts - 1 through 30 (of 50 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.