Lund 1660 transom?

Hi I own a 2007 Lund 1660 classic SS. I’ve heard that the transoms on these boats can go bad and I wonder how to be sure mine is safe? I can put my weight on my motor without any movement in the transom when I try and shake the motor. But I’ve replaced the top transom top screws with longer screws because some of them would not tighten completely when I turned them tightly with a screw driver? The transom seems solid but it’s kinda worrisome. Your comments would be appreciated. Thank you Chuck

Check the bolts holding the motor on. If you can tighten them most likely the transom is rotting. I have done 4 lund transoms including mine ranging from 2002-2007. Also bubbling paint were the screws or bolts are can be another sign.

Supercat, how big of an undertaking is it to replace transoms? I will do your checks you suggested but I’m thinking 03 crestliner fish hawk has transome issues. It has a small leak in the transom where a bolt runs through, can’t get a great look at it but I’m guessing it because the green treat wood is rotting.

Thanks supercat

Thanks supercat is it hard to do it yourself

weedis wrote:

Supercat, how big of an undertaking is it to replace transoms? I will do your checks you suggested but I’m thinking 03 crestliner fish hawk has transome issues. It has a small leak in the transom where a bolt runs through, can’t get a great look at it but I’m guessing it because the green treat wood is rotting.

Very simple boat to do, I did my 04′ fish hawk.

3 layers of plywood, some epoxy and stainless screws. The down side is that boat has a weld cap for the transom you have to cut and re-weld the cap back on. Then paint match the transom or repaint it.

The first ones I did were lund 2025 with 250 hp motors and kickers. First one took about 32 hours thats including taking many pictures and ordering the products I needed including a motor stand to hang the motor, which I made myself out of wood. Also I have a electric fork lift that helps getting those motors off but a cherry picker would work also unless your motor is pickable by hand. Took my time is not hard work just take time. Last on I did took about 16 hours but seems that there is always something else to repair once its taken apart. All these boat had splash wells and rear casting deck with livewells that needed to be removed. If there is no rear livewells or decks you could probably do it in a day. Just try to have every thing you need before you start unless you can tie up the space for awhile.

Thanks for the info fellas. I will take a deeper look, see if I can run it this season and have a project on my hands next winter.

If you can put weight on the motor without any movement in the transom, that’s a good sign. The fact that you’ve already replaced some of the screws is a proactive step.

Just a little heads up there is NO treated wood in a transom and should never be used for a transom on an aluminum boaat, marine grade plywood only.

Tom P. wrote:

Just a little heads up there is NO treated wood in a transom and should never be used for a transom on an aluminum boaat, marine grade plywood only.

Correct, I misspoken above saying green treat. I was watching a you tube video yesterday where a guy was replacing his transom on a pro v, early 2000s, and he was able to order a composite transom directly from Lund. Didn’t say the cost but worth a look if someone thinking about doing a transom job.

Thank you All really comments a good help. Very much appreciated

I’m going to be tackling one on a 16 ft Lund sooner than later myself. It’s a bench boat so it should be relatively easy not having to deal with gunwale disassembly, but it’s still riveted and sandwiched in place between aluminum like all the other ones.

Let me know if you find any good videos or other resources!

Well I tackled my transom, it wasn’t too bad to do. 1982 Lund DLX 16′.

Started on it Friday. Had it tore apart and pulled out in less than three hours. Used the old transom as a jig, then epoxy painted the new one (marine plywood).

I had to plane one of the sheets down thinner to match the old thickness (used a small electric hand planer). Then Gorilla Glued the two sheets together.

Did a few coats of paint and had it all back together with less than 8 hours of labor

I’ll get some pics up.

Nice B-Man. Looking forward to seeing some pictures.