Would you get rid of a K drill for a Nils?

Just asking 6 inch model. I have the K drill with clam plate it is paid for. If I get the Nils I will sell the K drill. The Nils looks faster but last year with the open MN winter I went through 2 sets of blades on the K drill. Would the Nils handle that plus 60 bucks to get an extra head for the Nils. The K drill cannot be used manually that is my draw back. Or I could just buy a cheap lazer for back up. I have heard the Nils saves battery life but the K drill is easier on the Drill What’s your thoughts?

wildbeaver wrote:

Buy a gas one. You aren’t going to be able to drill 1000 holes through 40″ of ice with a toy.

You need to educate yourself about the capabilities of battery operated equipment.

mrpike1973 wrote:

last year with the open MN winter I went through 2 sets of blades on the K drill

You’ve already invested in extra blades for the K-drill. I’d have the blades resharpened and continue on.

IMO, speed means nothing. I don’t get why one would sell an auger to get 2.45 seconds per hole.

I’m also somewhat curious how you went thru two sets of blades. Are you pushing down? Let the auger work.

I’m loving my k drill. I’d also scrap the clam plate but that’s a personal preference. It’s so light without it.

Regarding manual mode, I too have a Nils…and not once have I needed the manual adapter. It gives peace of mind I supposed. I’d just buy a cheap spare drill if I was worried.

A 12v car charger for your drill batteries, or even picking up a bare tool ($100.00) Would be a good piece of mind if you are worried. I am also curious how you managed to go through that many blades? Like Bob stated I dont see a huge benefit to drilling a hole a little faster than the other to justify replacing but thats just me.I picked one up last year and really enjoyed it.

I was thinking about buying the drill plate this year to ease up on the drill and protect against the issue I keep seeing online with the handle snapping off the chuck.

I’ve been running Nils augers for over 10 years now in 6″ and 8″ configurations. If I didn’t have multiple blade heads, auger shafts and a good running Tanaka, I would buy a K-drill. The Nils augers are hands down the fastest auger made. That being said, if you went through 2 K-drill blades in one season, you will have gone through 4-5 Nils sharpening’s in that time…Nils blades need to be SHARP. Once they begin to dull at all, they slow down faster than you can blink.

When my powerhead dies or my blades can no longer be sharpened, I’ll be making the switch.

i’ve gone through about 30,000″ of ice with my 6″ kdrill in 2 shorter IL seasons and have no complaints. i’ve used nils and if i had to guess, its a smidge faster but not fast enough i’m like, i’ve got to have it.

I like my nills over my k drill, the k drill is rough on my wrists and drill. The nills isn’t. But new strikemaster lazer is my go to I sold the k drill

Last year the ice for me was very open lots of dirt and grime on the ice. For A short while I thought my drill was getting bad until I slapped a new set of blades on it then it was game on. I wish I could use the K Drill with out the plate but it hurts my wrists to much. I also let the auger work itself but I do drill a lot of holes. I fished about 60 trips last year and between the missus and I about 15-30 holes a trip. From what I’m hearing I think I should keep what I got and buy more jigs.

wildbeaver wrote:

I agree. I would sell it and buy a real auger that’s powered by gas.

Trying to turn this thread into a gas verses electric debate is not needed.

Huntindave wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>wildbeaver wrote:</div>
I agree. I would sell it and buy a real auger that’s powered by gas.

Trying to turn this thread into a gas verses electric debate is not needed.

He’s sure trying isn’t he. Two posts already.

Merican Eagle makes a good point. Nils is great but sharpening seems like a flaw in the great auger. I’m dreading the day I need to send it out for re-sharpening.

mrpike1973 wrote:

Last year the ice for me was very open lots of dirt and grime on the ice. For A short while I thought my drill was getting bad until I slapped a new set of blades on it then it was game on. I wish I could use the K Drill with out the plate but it hurts my wrists to much. I also let the auger work itself but I do drill a lot of holes. I fished about 60 trips last year and between the missus and I about 15-30 holes a trip. From what I’m hearing I think I should keep what I got and buy more jigs.

Not many shaver type blades will hold up in those conditions.From experience,if you go through 1 set with the K-drill,you will go through many with others.

Drill into a wad of weeds/debris,and the Nils will be done right there.I’d keep what you have,and get a manual type for back-up.

mrpike1973 wrote:

The K drill cannot be used manually that is my draw back.

Why not? I agree K’drill does not offer a ready to purchase handle, but one can easily fabricate an adapter and handle.

The K-drill is already drilled for a cross pin.
Take a handle section from any old beat up hand auger. The one in the pic is a 5 inch hand lazer but it really doesn’t matter. Cut off the entire handle section and drill a cross hole.
Have a buddy or anyone with a metal lathe turn up a coupler with the proper ID on each end to match what you have. Drill for the cross pins and you are set to go.
I have no idea how the K-drill will cut when driven by hand power but it should be easy to find out.

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wildbeaver wrote:

Buy a gas one. You aren’t going to be able to drill 1000 holes through 40″ of ice with a toy.

I’m guessing I’m well over 1000 holes with my TOY. You can have the leaky gas smells, extra weight, Noise, Ect if you want. I think I’ll stick with my TOY

ClownColor wrote:

I’m dreading the day I need to send it out for re-sharpening.

Frank is an awesome guy. If you send him the blades for sharpening while there’s ice on the lakes, he hand tests each one before sending them back. Mail it on a Monday and have it back on a Wednesday or Thursday at the latest.

I have a KDrill and I drilled A LOT of holes last winter through the most we have had in Iowa for years. My KDrill held up fine. I think I will send in the blades for FREE sharpening yet this summer. I don’t see how someone could go through 2 sets of blades. I have owned a gas auger and a older electric. KDRILL is the best. I do use the plate only because I have a shoulder issue. I makes it a bit heavier, but still pretty darn light. Here in Iowa I have to pull my sled to 98% of my fishing spots, so light is good. I don’t know much about the Nils (I hear great things) but I don’t know how it could be that much better than the KDrill. Send in your blades for free sharpening and drill on.

wildbeaver wrote:

I drill around 1000 holes everytime I go out.

To Bill Brasky!

Ralph that cracked me up!!!!!!

wildbeaver wrote:

Buy a gas one. You aren’t going to be able to drill 1000 holes through 40″ of ice with a toy.

I run a K-Drill and fish 3 days a week all winter. I haven’t had to sharpen the original blades yet going into the second season. I also do NOT sit in a wheelhouse or giant heavy thermal shack and “wait” for fish. I punch holes nonstop chasing fish.

A gas auger that hasn’t been used in a couple weeks would be slower through 18″ of ice than my 8″ Milwaukee driven K drill if you take into account anything other than a 1 start pull every time.

Electric driven augers are here to stay. I run mine into 2′ of ice with no hesitation all day long. There’s a time and place for gas, but that will become a smaller and smaller segment of anglers as batteries and drills improve. Look at the number of K drills in just a few years being on the market. Imagine 10 years from now.

As far as the nills vs. K drill debate it’s pretty simple. K drill blades are made for durability, dirty ice, weeds, dirt, opening old holes, rough ice, etc. The nills blades simply won’t take the beating and stay sharp enough to cut holes for as long. For those getting sore wrists running a plateless k drill, I’d question their technique. I’ve never felt sore despite 50+ holes on a typical outing.

Surprised no one has said this yet: K-drill sharpens the blades for free.

Buy one extra set for emergencies if you like and you don’t have to pay until you wear them too thin to be sharpened again.

I am going to get a clam plate to avoid breaking my drill/wrist this year. I am tinkering with selling my gas auger for a bare tool backup or extra battery. I always have that 7″ mora hand auger if things really go south…

wildbeaver wrote:

I drill around 1000 holes everytime I go out.

How much gas do you bring with ? At only 10 seconds per hole, you auger for over 2 1/2 hours straight everytime your out.

I’ll vote for gas. I have a 6″ lazer on a Tanaka motor. Still haven’t seen anything that will go faster than that. Very light also. 262R Tanaka. I’m on the same blades and its been 6 plus years.

The only problem I’ve seen with the K-drill / Milwaukee setup is that where the arm / handle attaches to the drill tends to get tore up, Warn down, or breaks over time. I’ve know a few different friends who ended up going to the drill plate just for that reason. Mine is still fine, but I can see the wear and know its a matter of time till I have a issue. I know when Milwaukee was contacted they say it is not a covered damage and is not a cheap repair. With the # of units they have sold simply due to the K-drill I would think they would be doing more to help customers out or come up with a fix to prevent. Not sure how many other users are having this problem, but my guess is more than a few.

wildbeaver wrote:

5 gallon jug

Go troll somewhere else. Adults are having a conversation.

fishthumper wrote:

Not sure how many other users are having this problem, but my guess is more than a few.

Nearly everyone of them.

I just put my order in for a DCD996 Dewalt. Tested one last year on a Stikemaster blade and I’m sold.

My buddy had a K-Drill/ Milwaukee, we loved it but found out after one season… it couldn’t handle the late season ice well at all. Very hard to clear a hole with K-Drill design. Also his handle broke off after a month of use.

I’ll be posting about my Dewalt/Strikemaster laser setup this year. I feel it’s the best combo for electric drills right now. I bought a 6″ and an 8″ bit.

The electric Strikemaster and Ion are great for most fisherman though. It all comes down to what you want to do.

This comment is for the trolling WildBeaver. IMO, gas is great if you need to drill 100 holes in a day (in your case 1000) and the ice is thick. You can’t beat gas but for everything else electric is king. I use my gas maybe a dozen times a year now. Electric is fast, quiet and no gas/exhaust stink.

Joe Scegura wrote:

I just put my order in for a DCD996 Dewalt. Tested one last year on a Stikemaster blade and I’m sold.

I’ll be posting about my Dewalt/Strikemaster laser setup this year. I feel it’s the best combo for electric drills right now. I bought a 6″ and an 8″ bit.

I have a 996 and it will get VERY hot and smoke a little if drilling multiple 8″ holes rapidly with a Nils. Found that out trying to drill 3 cloverleaf sturgeon holes on the croix last winter. Can’t imagine it will be any different with a SM, but maybe. Drills 8″ holes great as long as you take a break after 2 or 3 when the ice is thicker. With a 6″ Nils bit, nothing can stop it.

Joe Scegura wrote:

The electric Strikemaster and Ion are great for most fisherman though. It all comes down to what you want to do.

I’m glad someone endorsed this as I’m planning on buying a new 40V this year. I missed out last year and I do not have or need a Dewalt or Milwaukee drill. I only need an electric ice auger.

That and it will be very soon that James Holst will be telling us that we NEED a new Strikemaster auger.

404 ERROR wrote:

I have a 996 and it will get VERY hot and smoke a little if drilling multiple 8″ holes rapidly with a Nils.

That’s good to know! I think the Nils must be too much of a “bite” for the drill to handle?

We drilled holes for 4 Ice Castles with the same Dewalt 996/Laser bit 8″, late in the year and the drill worked great! The drill didn’t get hot by any means. I only use the 8″ bit for walleye, so 6 holes in the house and a few tip up holes usually. I would not recommend drilling a lot of 8″ holes with any electric drill/auger combo.

Everything has it’s place. I plan to use this combo for chasing panfish and drilling mostly 6″ holes anyhow. I think the best unit for hard side houses only is either a Strikemaster or Ion 40V.

I have an Ion and love it for in the house but it lacks speed for any type of hole hopping. I’m hoping the Dewalt/Laser drill combo will allow me to hole hop with a 6″ bit but also handle 10 holes at a time with an 8″ bit. If not I’ll keep the Ion for 8″ holes in the house.

Joe Scegura wrote:

That’s good to know! I think the Nils must be too much of a “bite” for the drill to handle?

That’s my guess. I was using one of the old powerpoint Nils heads since they center themselves better for overlapping holes. But the powerpoint really digs the blade hard…