Snap Weights VS Leadcore

Which do you prefer? Essentially both do the same?

Snap weights, mainly because I have 6 line counter rods set up for my tolling applications. I can store the snap weights much easier than I can store 6 more combos. Also I can decide if I want to add an ounce, 2, or 3 to get to my desired depth and I can add different weights to the inside rods and let different amounts of line out to avoid tangles. I suppose if I only fished in MN, I would have a lead core rod in the boat all the time too, only being able to use one rod. I have lost a couple fish trying to get the weight off. But not enough to go away from them.

I use both and troll two of each together when I can. I’ve been doing it for years and have never noticed a difference in catch rates between them. If only trolling two rods, we always use only snap weights because they are so much quicker to let out and get back in again.
I like them both but if I had to choose one or the other, I’d use snap weights.

Lead core. To be honest though, I’ve never really given snap weights a fair shake, but when I did use it I had less confidence in where exactly my bait was at vs lead core.

I’m the opposite from Smellson. I have a lot more confidence with snap weights. Leadcore is extremely speed sensitive. If it doesn’t seem to matter, I’ll run snap weights every chance I get. I’ve gotten to the point of running 2 of each if possible.

I think that snap weights are just as speed sensitive as leadcore. One benefit of using them together is that when straying into a shallow area by accident when trolling contours, a burst of speed will raise them both enough to avoid snags until getting back into whatever depth they are set.

As a side note, I used my LiveScope system with a LVS34 transducer for the first time last week at Devils Lake while trolling cranks with both leadcore and snap weights. With the transducer pointed backwards, I could plainly see my snap weight and crank behind it(60 feet or so back), fishing going by and fish coming up to the crankbait.
I’ve been trolling cranks with snap weights for years but now I actually know exactly how deep my cranks are running behind them. I could also see how bursts of speed affected depth of the presentation.
At one point, a fish swam up to my crank, grabbed it and actually swam up with it. I didn’t quite know what I was seeing until my rod bent over.
I was hoping that I could use it for trolling and I was almost awed with what it could do. I can’t wait to get out there again and learn more about how to best use it while trolling.

Do snap weight setups ‘turn’ with the boat as close as lead core setups? I would think that’s the main advantage of lead core but I’ve never run or seen snap weight setups so I’m curious. If so, then I’d say snapweights are superior just for ease of maintenance and use.

I much prefer leadcore. I think it is more foregiving and easier to read, especially if you get a piece of grass or something on a hook. With a sensitive rod you can tell if your bait is not swimming true even with the smallest degree of fouling. I’ve had times where I never saw this with snaps and drug around a fouled bait for an hour without knowing.

FinickyFish wrote:

Do snap weight setups ‘turn’ with the boat as close as lead core setups? I would think that’s the main advantage of lead core but I’ve never run or seen snap weight setups so I’m curious. If so, then I’d say snapweights are superior just for ease of maintenance and use.

I think that snap weights follow turns as well as leadcore.

Is there a basic guide to how far the snap weights should be from the crankbait? How far on average will a 2oz, 3oz and 4oz take you down? I know speed and conditions effect it but on average?

I found this online for the 50/50 method

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I’m interested in trying these snap weights. Is there a kit I can buy that’s a good go to. I see all sorts on the Google machine. I’ve never fished this way before

Leadcore baby, at least for big lake applications. I find that lead core has a tendency to “hunt” 10-20 inches up/down and this little extra action seems to be more productive. Also way easier to tell if line is fouled.

Drizzy Musky wrote:

Leadcore baby, at least for big lake applications. I find that lead core has a tendency to “hunt” 10-20 inches up/down and this little extra action seems to be more productive. Also way easier to tell if line is fouled.

I don’t doubt you but how do you know that leadcore hunts 10 to 20 inches up or down? I’d think that just the surging from the waves would do that whether trolling with leadcore or snap weights.

Leadcore without a doubt.

Bearcat89 wrote:

I’m interested in trying these snap weights. Is there a kit I can buy that’s a good go to. I see all sorts on the Google machine. I’ve never fished this way before

Not sure if they still make/sell the kit, but Church tackle used to sell a nice kit with releases and multiple size weights to be able to interchange.

I find that each option has it’s time and place, depending on a number of factors/conditions.
As has already been mentioned, the leadcore is much easier to read your baits as far as fouling. However, often times the snap weights will act as a guard or barrier to block weeds from getting to your bait.
When fishing alone, depending on rod length and lake conditions snap weights can also be a bit trickier to remove without risk of losing fish.
When fishing deeper water where letting out many colors of leadcore is required to reach the depths you’re after, snap weights can be advantageous for the simple fact that much less line out is required to reach the depth if using a heavy enough weight. In some cases this can mean more fish caught simply because your bait is in the right area for a longer amount of time, translating to more bites.

Bearcat89 wrote:

I’m interested in trying these snap weights. Is there a kit I can buy that’s a good go to. I see all sorts on the Google machine. I’ve never fished this way before

Here’s what I use. I like the offshore clips.

https://www.scheels.com/p/off-shore-tackle-pro-weight-system-kit/02307269320.html?store=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxIOXBhCrARIsAL1QFCYct6LrgbY1V4Z4rNx8EszqJPx3lrcTue2eWL0AqXZZuQYsUw87CKQaApZNEALw_wcB

Also, snap weights use a pretty standard 50+2 method. You let out 50ft of line, clip on a 2oz snap weight, then let out x amount of line. They have lots of info on this system on the precision trolling app.

I have my Active Target mounted on my vantage. I’m excited to be on LOTW next week trolling! Seeing fish react to cranks is going to be fun to watch!

How about both? Salmon fishing I have 5 color rods setup. If I want more depth I can just add snap weight. Better than adding 10 color rods to the boat.

My leadcore are all 10 color. I wouldn’t want to wish I had more lead on!

i prefer leadcore just because of its simplicity. you let out line until your baits drag then reel up a few feet and you are in the zone. snap weights are nice when you have a bunch of grass in the water as they will catch most of the debris before it reaches your lure.

I use lead core for cranks and started using the 50/2 method for trolling spoons. Both methods have a “known” depth position from charts. If using snaps weights for cranks how do you know where the crank is running? Use the 50/2 chart and add in the dive curve of the crank?
Spoons don’t dive so the chart is easy to follow. Maybe I’m over thinking it.

beardly wrote:

I use lead core for cranks and started using the 50/2 method for trolling spoons. Both methods have a “known” depth position from charts. If using snaps weights for cranks how do you know where the crank is running? Use the 50/2 chart and add in the dive curve of the crank?
Spoons don’t dive so the chart is easy to follow. Maybe I’m over thinking it.

Exactly what you said, use the known depth for the snap weight and add whatever the dive curve of the crankbait you are using based on line out behind the weight.

eyeguy507 wrote:

i prefer leadcore just because of its simplicity. you let out line until your baits drag then reel up a few feet and you are in the zone. snap weights are nice when you have a bunch of grass in the water as they will catch most of the debris before it reaches your lure.

That’s not how I use lead core at all. Let out the color to desired depth. Done.

Ripjiggen wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>eyeguy507 wrote:</div>
i prefer leadcore just because of its simplicity. you let out line until your baits drag then reel up a few feet and you are in the zone. snap weights are nice when you have a bunch of grass in the water as they will catch most of the debris before it reaches your lure.

That’s not how I use lead core at all. Let out the color to desired depth. Done.

That only works if you only troll at 2mph in no current.

Ripjiggen wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>eyeguy507 wrote:</div>
i prefer leadcore just because of its simplicity. you let out line until your baits drag then reel up a few feet and you are in the zone. snap weights are nice when you have a bunch of grass in the water as they will catch most of the debris before it reaches your lure.

That’s not how I use lead core at all. Let out the color to desired depth. Done.

too many variables for me to count colors. trolling up river, down river, bandits on one side, flicker shads on the other side. once i get bites, i look at my line counter and know how much line to let out. must be more than one way to do it? I troll upwards of 3 mph this time of year too.

No I hear ya. I do more basin trolling on lakes with lead. So I don’t touch bottom or even care where bottom is.
I understand what you are saying on river fishing with lead.