Power Lift Storage solutions for Garage

Does anyone have any first hand experience with track-mounted motorized lift systems for a garage? I have a standard 3 car garage, 10.5 ft ceiling and I’ve filled all my wall and shelf space. I currently store some of my large power tools in our basement utility room (Miter Saw, Foldable table saw, etc). I don’t use these all the time, but would like an easy way to store and access them in the garage when needed. Also see a potential to build a fishing rod rack that could mount to the bottom of the platform so I could get those off the wall as well, along with maybe some of my lesser-used lawn tools.

I’ve been looking at companies like GarageSmart. Seems like you could add-on or even re-configure the rails and lifts pretty easily. Not cheap but may be able to make it work, and I think they will only go up in price for the foreseeable future.

Let me know if you use anything similar and what you like and don’t like about it.

Most of those systems go in long after I’m gone from a house build. Just a reminder to keep in mind that the bottom cord or members of most trusses are rated at around 10# per sqft. Sometimes more or a little less depending local codes. Once in a while I see these systems go in and the ceiling is over loaded

Will be following.

I have looked at some but not in depth. I was thinking of building a pully system to stick my portable icehouse on the ceiling and be able to lower it into the bed of my truck. I have plans made for is but am always looking if there is something better. I am planning on putting Unistrut in the attic across multiple trusses to help with load. This would be over kill since my icehouse doesn’t weigh much. But like Randy stated, trusses are not designed to handle this kind of weight. Make sure to look at what kind of weight you are thinking of adding. I do like the look of the garage smart lift better than some of the other ones I have seen.

Randy Wieland wrote:

Most of those systems go in long after I’m gone from a house build. Just a reminder to keep in mind that the bottom cord or members of most trusses are rated at around 10# per sqft. Sometimes more or a little less depending local codes. Once in a while I see these systems go in and the ceiling is over loaded

Big time. And insurance will not cover you if a incident occurs.

Could you tie the rafters together using 2x4s? That is what I did figured it would be sufficient.

I’m with ya, Rodwork! I lay awake at night sometimes thinking of how I could build one myself, but I could see whatever manual control mechanism I come up with failing and having it all come crashing to the ground. This is one area I’m just fine with spending more money for peace-of-mind

One thing I DONT like about GarageSmart is that the harness for each platform takes up clearance space. No matter what you store, it will still hang down 48″ giving me only about 6″ of headspace below the platform.

There are other systems which essentially allow you to raise the platform all the way to the spools so going to look closer at those.

As far as ceiling overloading – that’s noted and I can get up in my attic space and check out the trusses first. I may have to take a pic or two and ask the experts before installing

ThunderLund78 wrote:

There are other systems which essentially allow you to raise the platform the way to the spools so going to look closer at those.

I have a Racor Lift that I have had for years, but they are no longer making them I believe. Mine is like you are suggesting.

I am thinking I could modify that Hard Top Lifter to work well.

Hard Top Lifter

Thunder if you make your own platform, the Truck Top Lifter might work better?

ThunderLund78 wrote:

I’m with ya, Rodwork! I lay awake at night sometimes thinking of how I could build one myself, but I could see whatever manual control mechanism I come up with failing and having it all come crashing to the ground. This is one area I’m just fine with spending more money for peace-of-mind

You might not save anything making your own. Good pulleys are not cheap and then you times it by 4,8,10. This system could be cheaper in the end.

Heck Yeah,
Or buy the roof rails (used for a pick-up topper) and mount those to a home-built platform to avoid the harness. It’s an interesting idea, but not the intended use– will give it some more thought.

Roof Rails

Randy Wieland wrote:

Most of those systems go in long after I’m gone from a house build. Just a reminder to keep in mind that the bottom cord or members of most trusses are rated at around 10# per sqft. Sometimes more or a little less depending local codes. Once in a while I see these systems go in and the ceiling is over loaded

Totally agree there are many videos of rafters collapsing from some of the loads. It’s not that it can’t support light loads for a short time but the longer they are left there the trusses begin to deflect and fail. I would try to put the heaviest loads as close to a bearing point as possible. As Randy said 10#sqft and sheetrock takes away the first 2-4#’s

I do have heavy-duty shelves where the fronts are suspended from the ceiling by chains (but also anchored by lags into the adjacent wall) near where I picture these being installed. Before I get too serious I’ll post some pics.

Heavy load, sheetrock, then add snow on the roof. That’s when issues happen

Do you have enough attic access to sister-in some 2×10’s or 2×12’s to support the load?

HRG

Hot Runr Guy wrote:

Do you have enough attic access to sister-in some 2×10’s or 2×12’s to support the load?

HRG

Yes, most likely.

Hot Runr Guy wrote:

Do you have enough attic access to sister-in some 2×10’s or 2×12’s to support the load?

HRG

This is what I would do before even considering adding weight to the trusses

Hot Runr Guy wrote:

Do you have enough attic access to sister-in some 2×10’s or 2×12’s to support the load?

HRG

The added beams would have to be able to go bearing point to bearing point not just be nailed on the truss were you are planning on connecting it. If that is a possibility that would be great but it’s not that common in a garage to be able to do that.

I use the Racor lift for my Otter Cabin summer storage, then store the lawnmower and kids bikes over the winter months, love it…

supercat wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Hot Runr Guy wrote:</div>
Do you have enough attic access to sister-in some 2×10’s or 2×12’s to support the load?

HRG

The added beams would have to be able to go bearing point to bearing point not just be nailed on the truss were you are planning on connecting it.

Agreed.

HRG

FLEXIMOUNTS Overhead Garage Storage Rack Lift

I’ve got 2 of these, work well with a drill. I put alot of weight on mine.

This is what I did in my garage to store my Otter Resort and Cottage nested together.

Note that it’s spanning four rafters, it’s close to the 2×6 sidewall, and I added a couple gussets from the top to the bottom of the middle rafters. I also lagged the two ends of the steel to the outside rafters from the top.

By default if there’s a snowload on the roof, the Otters aren’t in the rafters

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^ The way B-man did his lift is exactly what I was thinking of doing for my lift.

I did the same thing in my old garage. Got the winch at northern for about $120. I used it to store my otter lodge, and also lower it into the back of my truck.

B-man wrote:

This is what I did in my garage to store my Otter Resort and Cottage nested together.

Note that it’s spanning four rafters, it’s close to the 2×6 sidewall, and I added a couple gussets from the top to the bottom of the middle rafters. I also lagged the two ends of the steel to the outside rafters from the top.

By default if there’s a snowload on the roof, the Otters aren’t in the rafters