Fuel management

I’ve heard this over and over that they fail. First year they came out with it, 2011?, my father had to get a engine overhaul on his Silverado due to issues but no issues since. Also heard from others from that first year or two, but not of later models.

Is this something similar to the VRO where couple years of issues leak over into the whole thing being junk now or what? I’d like to hear first hand accounts of this system failing on the newer models. Especially since I just bought into a 2015 5.3l

They completely redesigned the AFM for 2014. I havent heard of any issues with the recent models. I owned a 2015, 2017 and just sold my 2018 and never one hiccup. Granted I just sold my 2018 with 43k miles on it which was the most of any of these 3 but in those earlier renditions problems often showed up early.
I think one of the biggest things with these is regular oil changes and not going by the oil life meter thing.
My wife has a 2012 Denali XL with the 6.2 which I thought was NOT AFM, turns out it is. Shortly after she got it she was driving on the interstate and the service engine light came on, then its started flashing and began running really rough. Multiple cylinder misfire. We had it towed to our nearby shop who literally tore it completely apart inspecting all internals yet didnt replace a thing and couldnt get it to duplicate the problem.
That was 2 years ago. It was well past due for an oil change and the shop said that could likely cause it. We’ve been diligent with oil changes and no hiccups since.

I’m no mechanic but I believe 2008 was the first year of them and had the start of the problems. Each new model AFM was modified for that new engine but slightly similar. I had a 2014 5.3 for almost 4 years with no issues other than a little bit of oil consumption. Checking oil ever other fill up with gas will help catch things before hand knowing if you level is low. Range AFM disabler will block this from happening while not changing the tune in the truck if you’re worried.

Oh, be aware that in 2014 the 5.3 is now 8 quarts. My 2017 I had the oil changed at the rapid oil change connected to the dealer and less than a week later the oil light came on and I couldnt see any oil on the dipstick. I had to pay to have the oil changed again, then entered the “oil consumption” protocol which meant I had to come in once a week and have them check. It never budged. Turns out the knucklehead who changed the oil only put in 6 quarts. I was PO’d. Apparently they had done that a number of times.

The problems started in 2007 models to my knowledge and unsure of when it was fixed. Agree with the oil change intervals being crazy long these days, I have said it before just do what any old timer told you and change the oil sooner than needed.

I had a 2007 Suburban with AFM that needed a new engine at 105k miles… regular oil changes didn’t make a difference; I put a AFM block on it as soon as I bought it at 65k and it was too late; damage was already done.

John Rasmussen wrote:

The problems started in 2007 models to my knowledge and unsure of when it was fixed. Agree with the oil change intervals being crazy long these days, I have said it before just do what any old timer told you and change the oil sooner than needed.

One of the actual solutions I was told for someone having oil consumption issues was they would reprogram that oil life monitor for less miles so people would change it sooner. They claimed that those long intervals led to the problem because the oil was breaking down too much and causing internal part issues. Not sure if its true or not, but its sound advice to just change the dang oil! LOL

I had a ’12 Tahoe with AFM that bit the dust at 100K. $3500 to put in a used motor and I traded it in a few weeks later.

I bought it used, but I always used high quality filters, Mobil 1, and changed every 6K miles.

They’re still having issues just not quite as frequent as the 2007-2010 models.
On the older models the main issue was the lifters collapsing and causing a dead misfire.
The newer (2015+) models I’ve seen fail have had the lifters seize and cause major valve train damage mainly by bending pushrods.
Either way to service lifers on the GM LS series engine it requires removing the cylinder heads so it gets expensive fast.
The 5.3 lost its credibility in 2006 in my opinion.

grubson wrote:

The 5.3 lost its credibility in 2006 in my opinion.

Correct!

Absolutely hate cylinder deactivation. As to my real world experience I had a 2006 Durango with stuck lifters and a 2007 yukon XL (they switched to the new model midyear. I had the new model), motor was replaced at 90k miles due to oil consumption. This was done by the previous owner but he had all the paperwork which showed the analysis.

I loved the yukon XL. Nicest looking vehicle and most comfortable to drive I’ve ever had but unfortunately the entire rear end failed at 160k miles and I decided to trade it in

Have had a 2004 Silverado 5.3 block crack @ 125k, 2011 Silverado @ 88k and now a 2016 Sierra @ 79k need major engine work due to collapsed/seized lifters most likely due to AFM thankfully both were covered by extended warranties I purchased thru my credit union. I think the last one clocked in north of $5100

I do not know if the engines suck, I do know I am not a mechanic, but WTF and I have all the regularly scheduled maintenance done on time and change oil before the recommended mileage.

I really liked everything else about the trucks but I need a different problem next time…

Bought my 2016 in with 55k miles on it. Disabled AFM right away. I still average 18.5 in my daily commute, 19.1 if I really pay attention and make an effort to stay off the gas. Mine has a catch can, e85 equipped and tuned for 91+ or e85. It’s pretty fun for a 5.3L turd.

My Wife’s 2016 Tahoe with the identical drivetrain to my silverado is running 100% bone stock. I don’t like it but she doesn’t want to modify anything so we’ll just wait and see. The Tahoe averages 19.5 – 21 depending if it’s a daily commute or a road trip.

My dad has a 2010 5.3L with 70k on the clock and we recently added the Range Technology AFM disabling device. That’s cheap insurance, I would say if any one of these trucks goes it’s going to be the 2010.

As mentioned above, 2014+ were modified to address oil consumption but I don’t believe they solved collapsing lifters. 2019+ now use Dynamic Fuel Management (DFM) which can change a whole lot more than shutting off 4 cylinders. It can bring you down to 1 I believe, given the correct conditions.

Didn’t like the very slight rumble the engine would give between 2nd and 3rd gears and between the v4 and v8 with the 15 Yukon.

I also just added the Range AFM Disabler today, 50 miles in about, very short sample size, but it’s all city driving. Got rid of the rumble completely. Taking er on a road trip, will see how it goes but not really seeing any reason to go back. Last 400 miles with AFM 14.9average and last 50 with OUT AFM was 16.5

How do you guys get such good gas? My truck isn’t even close with the 5.3l.

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so is the consensus on these engines to disable the AFM? I’ve always been a ford guy but bought a 2018 silverado last year and have about 40k on it. I absolutely hate the AFM and when it cuts down to 4 cylinders. I’ve read mixed reviews on it online, enough that gave me second thoughts about doing it. But it seems like most people here have had good luck with it? Is there any potential con to getting a AFM disabler? Does it void warranties or anything like that?

I’m in the camp if it’s not broke don’t fix it. Rumors and memories of old technology probs plague alot of discussions like these.

With that said, in regards to this particular matter I seen and heard enough to disable. The Range Disabler simply plugs into your trucks port, and keeps the engine in V8 mode. Does not void warranty, and simply to remove and go back to normal unplug the device.

To delete the system requires almost an entire overhaul of certain engine components.

My experience with the disabler is prenatal at this point, but i did not like what my truck was doing with AFM on. Again mine was a 2015.

Gitchi Gummi wrote:

so is the consensus on these engines to disable the AFM? I’ve always been a ford guy but bought a 2018 silverado last year and have about 40k on it. I absolutely hate the AFM and when it cuts down to 4 cylinders. I’ve read mixed reviews on it online, enough that gave me second thoughts about doing it. But it seems like most people here have had good luck with it? Is there any potential con to getting a AFM disabler? Does it void warranties or anything like that?

There are no downfalls to adding it and I would suggest you do. I have not heard off any problems.

Thanks for the advice guys. I think I am going to do it.

My previous truck was a 2008 F150 with the 5.4 triton and although it was known for problems for others, it treated me very well for over 200k miles and I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t a little concerned with the notorious problems of this generation of silverados. When I traded it in and was test driving other silverados/sierras, the first thing I noticed in every truck I drove was the AFM when it cut in and out at higher speeds. You could feel a minor jerk when it kicked in and out, something that I’ve grown used to in the last few months but was very noticeable to me at first when coming from a truck that did not have this.

Anyone have a link they can share for buying one from a reputable site? All you do is just plug it in and you’re good to go? No changes to the CPU or settings or anything like that?

Deuces wrote:

My truck isn’t even close with the 5.3l.

If it makes you feel better, it’s better mileage than my Sequoia, though I will take my Toy over the 5.3L 8 days a week.

I have a Range disabler on my 15 6.2 Silverado, I found out that it will drain my battery if left plugged in and truck not driven for over a week, so I always unplug it, otherwise no problems with its operation.

One last update just bc I’m so impressed.

8hr road trip with 3 guys and around 5k(not alot but worth noting weight) in boat, gear etc, handled good there without tow mode and hauled back with tow mode even better same MPG about.

City driving grabbing kids, sports practice pickup, cub groceries, etc the pic shows the deal. Maybe the PC is catching up to the new cylinder configuration, maybe something else, don’t know don’t care all I know is it’s better. 2015 w 120k on it maybe it’s something else but again, truck performs like it should, and with considerably better mpg with the disabler on.

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2018 Silverado 5.3 – another cheap alternative is to drive the six speed transmission in L5. This disables the system and stays in eight cylinders all of the time. Mileage is reduced but usually less tham one MPG. I started driving in L5 after reading all of the issues and no problem after eight weeks.

Debating on the Range Disabler. I have a 2018 Silverado with 72k on it. The AFM doesn’t bother me at all driving and on a non towing trip I get 21 mpg or a little more. What can a guy expect with the Range?

What afm delete did you go with.
I put a edge pulsar tune in my ram been running that the last 100k. Now debating what to put in our tahoe

Bearcat89 wrote:

I put a edge pulsar tune in my ram been running that the last 100k

Just curious, what did you benefit from on that tune on your Ram. Are we talking a Hemi?

John Rasmussen wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Bearcat89 wrote:</div>
I put a edge pulsar tune in my ram been running that the last 100k

Just curious, what did you benefit from on that tune on your Ram. Are we talking a Hemi?

Hemi yes. Killed my cylinder deactivation. It runs stealth and it has 9 tunes.

http://www.rangetechnology.com/products/afm-dfm_disabler/parts/RA003B?utm_term=&utm_campaign=Google+Shopping+-+Range+AFM+Disabler+-+Brand&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&hsa_acc=9441693744&hsa_cam=8709303977&hsa_grp=91519804687&hsa_ad=409410037619&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=pla-967302586990&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjN-SBhCkARIsACsrBz6EJu7HeftsfIjcxjBKc56YJQsy3727ntA16WHW-whaWoTnTqANbu8aAngMEALw_wcB

Mxskeeter if that is your experience with the 5.3l then personally I wouldn’t touch a thing. Runs well, good mpg, like I said earlier don’t fix what ain’t broken. But my truck I just didn’t like what it was doing, and the mpg wasn’t there to justify. Know plenty of people who haven’t touched their AFM and are happy.

My wife has a 2010 yukon with AFM 230k on it bone stock and no issues. Dad has a 2015 sierra with AFM with 260k on it bone stock and works as it should as well. Good oil always used and changed every 5k

Aaron Kalberer wrote:

Good oil always used and changed every 5k

I think this is the most important part. Have you owned those vehicles their entire lives? Buying used is a gamble not knowing maintenance history.

Bought the wifes with 150k on it, my dad bought his with 130k on it from a friend who is meticulous on maintenance. I am mechanically savvy but by know means a mechanic. My understanding is the lifters collapse to obtain 4 cy. mode and when the get gummy from poor oil they get stuck in the collapsed mode. My dad runs the gm specified oil, I have run royal purple.