Jiffy auger problems

I’m having problems with my Jiffy auger, it is a model 31 3hp, I have to prime it all the time to keep it running. Has anyone had this problem & if so what did you do to fix it.

Thanks
Mark

sounds like it needs a carb kit.
big g

I too have the same problem

My father had the same problem with his jiffy…tore the carb apart and cleaned it good with carb cleaner now runs good..usually gets a small amount of water/dirt ect.. stuck in it id give it a try before you bring it in and pay someone…good luck..jay

I just had mine in. Before doing a kit, I was told to take note of where the hi & low speed adjstment screws on the carb and remove them. Squirt some carb cleaner in there, re-intall the screws and give it a go. Mine is starting much better but I had to drill holes with the choke set half way? I think I still need to adjust the screws a bit?

3HP augers can be an issue. Personally I stay away from them…to many problems in the past. But, yes it sounds like you need a good carb cleaning. After that, run sea foam in your gas all the time.

1. Carb needs cleaned
2. Run AmsOil in the future will help with keeping the carb cleaned.

There are two screws under the choke lever on the side of the carb. They are both flat head screws. You want to turn the screw on the right about 1/8 of a turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE.

Your augers are running a little to lean. This is common after the break in period.

To put a carb kit in this is a very hard? I’ve never did it before. Or should I just try cab cleaner first.

Did you adjust the lean/rich screw yet?

Quote:

---

To put a carb kit in this is a very hard? I’ve never did it before. Or should I just try cab cleaner first.

---

Is there any gas leaking around the carb when your pumping the primer?

Sounds like a bad diaphram or plugged main jet to me.

Try the carb cleaner for sure.

I would recommend Derek’s suggestion first!

I’ve had a Model 30 since 94 and wouldn’t trade it for anything except a new Stealth 3HP. Two problems seem to be common with the 3HP and neither one costs more than a few dollars and an hours time. First off the problem of having to push the primer to keep it running descibes, as mentioned, a lean condition. Could be a carb gunked up for sure although I’ve never had it on mine in all these years. What I have had happen a couple times that caused the same concern is the primer tube that runs from the button to the lower part of the carb will nudge the flywheel once in awhile creating a small scar that opens up and draws air. When this happens the ol brute wants to take a nap, so to speak. Pressing the primer injects fuel causing the surge of power and on it will run.

Another thing to check is the fuel cap vent. Did you open it? Is it plugged? Have you removed the fuel line from the base of the tank to the carb? Have a new section handy if the unit is a few years old as these rot from the inside out and will likely break. Anyhow take that hose off and drain the tank completely to get the water out of it.

While it is very possible the idle air mixture screws are set incorrectly I’m wondering if the condition has just started to occur. If it ran good for the first however long and no one tampered with the screws they are likely still set fine. On the other hand the one screw is for low rpm and theother high rpm. Does the auger run poor at low or high rpm only or both?

These are very simple and basic engines so nothing will stump you for long. Good luck and let us know what you find out.

I have 3hp jiffy stealth, and it runs okay once it has ran for a little while, it starts right up but then it dies out and starts back up and then dies, won’t idle worth a darn when its cold, but once it gets warmed up it seems to run okay?

I have the same problem with my stealth $500 for a decent auger?

My fix is simple. Not sure if it will harm it but, I run it with the choke on a little bit the whole time. If it is really cold I hit the primmer button to keep it running.

After 2 holes it runs great. It seems like it has a problem at first but warms up then runs perfect!

that is my same feeling, when i first bought and used for the first time everyone got a got a good show because i was about ready to throw it in the garbage. the throttle stuck wide open , yeah by the time i get done screwing around with the gas auger i’m better off just using a hand auger ,

You should always let your auger warm up before drilling holes. This is going to pro-long the life of the engine. Most problems are simple adjustments. Other problems can be cheap oil, bad gas, water in gas, dirty carb/jets.

Tried that to. I run 91 in mine with jiffy oil. Messed around with the settings. Ended up setting them back to the factories. Nothing matters. I would not buy a 3hp again. I ran mine agaisnt a Lazer. I hate to say it but his ran better and faster than mine

For a JIFFY guy that is hard to say………

The 3hp has always seemed to have some ghosts.. The 2hp really rips the ice.

Try running 87

I’ll try that. The 3 hp is a heck of an auger once it warms up. Spun me in a few circles on the slick stuff

I’ve got an old 3 hp Eskimo ice auger (techumseh engine). It is probably 20 years old. I don’t cut a lot of holes with it anymore mainly because it starts great, but won’t continue run without leaving it choked and priming it. I finally dropped it off at Ardisam in Cumberland, Wi. Its actually the Country Store up there which is owned by Ardisam. I was expecting a carb kit and didn’t want to spend more than 75.00 to fix it. Not long after dropping it off they called and said it needed a new carb. It will cost 60.00 plus an hour labor (45.00). I also want them to sharpen the blades (5.00). I decided to have them fix it but it was a difficult choice for an auger that old. I asked him why they couldn’t fix the old carb (kit, clean, adjust, etc). He said it was a waste of time to do for a 3 hp motor. I decided that he is the expert and I don’t really want to drop 300 – 500 bucks on a new one right now. He did indicate the trany still sounded good. I’m keeping my fingers crossed that it will run like a champ when I get it back.

I have only ran jiffy oil in mine, i’m only on my second gallon of gas through it, i see guys with the 3hp start them up and go drill a couple holes,while mine i sit there fiddle f-ing around trying to keep mine running until it warms up , i love the auger once it warms up but it shouldn’t take 5 to ten minutes to drill one hole? it idles good once it warm but keeping runnig till then is just frustrating and i like said before i spent $500 dollars on it and don’t think i should have to pay someone to look at it and i don’t think i should have turn this un screw that, it should just run good plain and simple.

BuB, you shouldnt have to wait that long to drill holes and it should idle good. Sounds like it needs to be serviced. The engine has a one year warranty.

Take it to a Jiffy service center. Here is a list.

Jiffy Service Centers

see thats where the problem is i bought 2 years ago, and last year i only ran it a couple times, and i thought it might get better but it hasn’t.

Ah,, I see..

yep i think i’m gonna bring to a small engine shop that has done work for me in the past and see if he can work the bugs out for me.

I have the same issues as well guys it is almost 5 now i bet but put a new carb kit in it last year maybe this weekend we can tinker with it…i have to have it on half choke to drill the first hole and often times have to prime it everytime I start the auger and it wont idle for me after each hole will shut off and have to restart it…

Try this
Tecumseh Troubleshooting Guide

Or give the factory a call

Factory Service Location
Tecumseh Power Company
900 North Street
Grafton, Wisconsin 53024-1499
Toll Free 1-800-558-5402

When I bought my Model 30 brand new in 1994 I had to take it to a Service Center to adjust the carb. Since then I have done the carb adjustments as they have been needed and never looked back. I press the primer bulb a half dozen or so times, slowly pull the rewind to get past the first big kickback, then pop it and let it idle. Mine always starts on the first or second pull no matter how long it sits or how cold it is. I let it idle about 45 seconds before revving it up. This auger is perfect and won’t go anywhere anytime soon. Don’t bother trading brands, the other guys use the same brand engines. Just take the unit in, spend 15 minutes letting someone who knows how set the carb, then go fish and stop worrying about it. They are really very simple engines and once you see a guy set it I’d bet the next time it is done in the garage. Good luck!

Quote:

---

slowly pull the rewind to get past the first big kickback, then pop it and let it idle.

---

Yeah I just figured that out last week after 2 years of owning a stealth I broke my ring finger on my shooting and jigging writting hand OUCH